Destination guide

Amalfi Coast

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The Amalfi Coast is a stretch of steep cliffs and tiny pastel villages on the southern side of the Sorrento peninsula. Lemon groves climb the hillsides, and a narrow road clings to the rock above the blue sea.

It is one of the most beautiful coastlines in Europe, and one of the most crowded in summer. It rewards visitors who choose a quiet season or base themselves away from the busiest villages.

How many days: 4

Four days is a good length for a base, a boat trip and a walk. Three works if you stay in one village.

Choose a base carefully, as the road is slow and narrow. Many visitors use ferries between the villages instead of cars.

What to do in Amalfi Coast

Take a ferry along the coast
Boats link the main villages and give a view from the sea. They are often quicker and more relaxing than the road.
Walk the Path of the Gods
A high-level trail above the sea, with views over the coast. It is a day walk, with some steps, and needs good shoes.
Visit Amalfi
A small town with a striking cathedral and a maze of narrow lanes. It was once a powerful maritime republic.
See Ravello
A hilltop village with gardens and a view over the sea. It has a long music tradition and is quieter than the coast.
Explore Positano
A pastel-coloured village stacked on a steep hillside, with a small beach below. Very photogenic, but crowded in summer.
Take a boat to Capri
The island is a short ferry ride away, with a famous grotto, villas and gardens. It is busy in summer.
Visit Pompeii
The buried Roman town is an easy trip from Sorrento or by train from Naples. Allow several hours.
Visit the Emerald Grotto
A sea cave where light turns the water emerald green, reached by boat or steps. A short stop on a coastal trip.
Visit the paper museum in Amalfi
The town was once famous for its handmade paper, and a small museum in an old mill explains the craft. A quiet indoor stop.
Walk down from Ravello to Amalfi
A stepped path winds down through lemon terraces to the sea. It is easier than the walk up.

What to eat and drink

Lemons and limoncello
Giant local lemons are used in drinks, desserts and savoury dishes. Limoncello is the famous liqueur.
Fresh fish and seafood
Grilled fish, anchovies and clams are on every menu. Look for the catch of the day.
Spaghetti alle vongole
Spaghetti with clams in garlic and white wine. A classic coastal pasta.
Delizia al limone
A sponge cake filled with lemon cream, a local dessert. Sold at pastry shops.
Mozzarella and local cheeses
The region is famous for buffalo mozzarella, best eaten fresh.
Pizza
Naples is nearby and pizza is excellent along the coast.
Local pasta and fresh vegetables
Simple dishes based on tomatoes, basil and local oil are served at family-run restaurants. A good way to eat well.

Getting around

The coast road is narrow and busy, with tight bends. Many visitors prefer ferries and buses to driving.

Buses link the main villages, but they get very crowded. Ferries run in the warmer months.

Taxis are available but costly. Agree the fare in advance.

Good to know

  • Summer is hot, busy and expensive. Spring and early autumn are much nicer.
  • Many hotels and restaurants close from late autumn to spring. Check before you go.
  • The villages are built on steep slopes with many steps. Pack light and wear sturdy shoes.
  • Book accommodation and boat tickets early for summer.
  • Parking is scarce and costly. A car can be more of a burden than a help.
  • Bring cash for small shops and boat tickets. Some places do not accept cards.
  • The best light and the fewest crowds are in the early morning. Many day-trippers have left by the evening.

Where to stay in Amalfi Coast

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Positano

Positano is the Amalfi Coast's most iconic village, with pastel buildings stacked above the sea, luxury hotels, restaurants and a small beach. It is exceptional for romantic stays and scenery, but accommodation is extremely expensive and the steep terrain can be tiring.

Amalfi

Amalfi is the coast's historic namesake town, with a striking cathedral, busy harbour, restaurants and excellent ferry connections. It is one of the most practical bases for exploring the coast, though daytime crowds are substantial in peak season.

Ravello

Ravello sits high above the coastline and is famous for villa gardens, classical music and extraordinary sea views. It is quieter and more refined than the coastal towns, making it ideal for romantic and luxury stays, though direct beach access is poor.

Praiano

Praiano lies between Positano and Amalfi and offers dramatic sea views, small coves and a much quieter atmosphere than its famous neighbours. It is excellent for couples seeking scenery and relaxation, although restaurants and transport are more limited.

Maiori

Maiori has one of the longest beaches on the Amalfi Coast and a flatter, more family-friendly layout than many neighbouring villages. It offers better value and easier mobility, though it is less visually dramatic than Positano or Ravello.

Minori

Minori is a compact coastal village with a small beach, Roman ruins and a strong local food tradition beneath Ravello. It is quieter and more affordable than Amalfi or Positano, making it especially suitable for relaxed couples and families.

What it costs

A typical day in Amalfi Coast, per person, in pounds.

£97

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£208

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£405

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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