Greece

Athens

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Athens is a lot of things at once: an ancient city, a modern capital, a hot, dense and noisy place with some of the most important ruins in the world sitting in the middle of it. The Acropolis rises above the rooftops from almost everywhere, and you keep catching sight of it.

It rewards a slow approach. See the big sights in the cooler hours, eat long lunches, and spend the evenings in the old neighbourhoods and on rooftops watching the light on the hill.

How many days: 3

Three days is enough for the Acropolis, the main museums and a couple of neighbourhoods. A fourth day gives you room for a trip out of the city.

The Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion is a popular half-day trip, and the nearby islands are reachable by ferry. Check the timetables and plan an early start.

What to do in Athens

Visit the Acropolis early
The Parthenon and the other temples sit on a rocky hill above the city. Go as early as you can, before the heat and the crowds. Check the official site for current ticket arrangements.
See the Acropolis Museum
A modern museum at the foot of the hill that holds finds from the site. It makes a good cool break after the climb.
Walk through the Ancient Agora
The old marketplace of the city, with a well-preserved temple and shaded paths. It gives a good sense of ancient daily life.
Wander the Plaka
The old district below the Acropolis, with narrow streets, shops and tavernas. Busy by day, and prettier in the evening.
Climb Lycabettus Hill
The highest point in the city, with views across to the sea. Go up for sunset.
Browse Monastiraki
A lively square and flea market district, good for people-watching and souvenirs.
Visit the National Archaeological Museum
One of the world's major collections of ancient Greek art and artefacts. It is a good rainy-day or midday option, and big enough to take a few hours.
Spend a day on the coast
The Athens coast has beaches within reach by tram from the centre. It is a good way to cool off after days of sightseeing.

What to eat and drink

Souvlaki and gyros
Grilled meat on a skewer or in a pita with tomato, onion and sauce. The standard cheap lunch.
Greek salad
Tomato, cucumber, olives, onion and a block of feta, with good olive oil. Simple and good in summer.
Moussaka
A baked dish of aubergine, minced meat and béchamel. A traditional taverna main.
Meze
Small dishes to share. A good way to try several things, ideally with a glass of wine or ouzo.
Spanakopita
A flaky pastry filled with spinach and cheese, sold in bakeries.
Loukoumades
Small fried dough balls drizzled with honey. A popular dessert and street snack.
Greek coffee and frappé
Traditional Greek coffee is served in a small cup, and frappé is an iced instant coffee that has become a local summer staple. Both are part of the cafe routine.

Getting around

The historic centre is walkable, but pavements are uneven and the heat is real. Take water and sun protection in summer.

The metro is clean and quick, and some stations contain archaeological displays. Check the transport operator's website for current tickets and passes.

From the airport, the metro and an express bus both run to the centre. Taxis are available, and it helps to confirm how fares work before you travel.

Good to know

  • Summer is very hot. Plan sights for early morning and late afternoon, and rest at midday.
  • Many archaeological sites close early in the afternoon. Check the official site before you plan a visit.
  • Wear flat, grippy shoes. The marble paths at the Acropolis are polished and slippery.
  • Street signs and metro stations are in Greek and English. A few letters of the Greek alphabet help with maps.
  • Opening hours at sites and shops can differ on Sundays and public holidays. Check before you plan around them.

Where to stay in Athens

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Plaka

Athens' most atmospheric historic quarter sits directly beneath the Acropolis, making it ideal for first-time visitors, couples and travellers who want major sights on their doorstep. The trade-off is heavy daytime footfall, tourist-focused restaurants and generally higher accommodation prices than less central neighbourhoods.

Monastiraki & Psyrri

This compact central district mixes ancient sights, the flea market, street food, rooftop bars and some of Athens' liveliest evening streets, suiting younger travellers and anyone prioritising nightlife and location. It can be noisy, crowded and scruffy around the edges, so light sleepers may prefer somewhere calmer.

Acropolis & Koukaki

Koukaki gives you excellent access to the Acropolis and Acropolis Museum while retaining more of a residential neighbourhood feel, with cafés, bars and local restaurants around pedestrianised streets. It is calmer than Monastiraki but still firmly on the tourist map, and airport journeys normally involve a connection rather than a direct airport train from the neighbourhood.

Syntagma

Syntagma is the practical centre of Athens, with excellent transport, major hotels, government buildings and easy walking access to Plaka and the historic centre, making it particularly strong for short stays and business trips. It is convenient rather than intimate, with busy roads, crowds and less neighbourhood character than Plaka or Koukaki.

Kolonaki

Kolonaki is Athens' polished upscale quarter, well suited to couples, business travellers and visitors who prefer designer shopping, smart cafés and more sophisticated restaurants to backpacker nightlife. Prices are relatively high and the streets climbing towards Lycabettus can be steep, while the main archaeological sights are a little farther away.

Glyfada

Glyfada is the most useful Athens Riviera base for travellers who want the sea, beaches, shopping and a substantial restaurant and nightlife scene while remaining connected to central Athens. The major drawback is distance from the Acropolis and historic centre, so it is a poor choice if ancient Athens is the main purpose of a short visit.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 12°C5°C 7
Feb 13°C6°C 7
Mar 16°C8°C 7
Apr 20°C11°C 6
May 25°C15°C 5
Jun 30°C20°C 3
Jul 33°C22°C 2
Aug 33°C22°C 1
Sep 28°C19°C 3
Oct 23°C15°C 4
Nov 18°C11°C 6
Dec 13°C7°C 8

What it costs

A typical day in Athens, per person, in pounds.

£42

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£90

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£127

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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