Indonesia

Bali

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Bali is a small Indonesian island with big appeal. Green rice terraces, volcanoes, temples, surf beaches and a rich Hindu culture make it unlike anywhere else in Southeast Asia. Offerings of flowers and incense lie on pavements and doorsteps.

It has very different regions, from the busy beach resorts of the south to the quiet hills of the interior. Choose where to stay with care.

How many days: 7

A week allows you to see two or three areas without rushing. Ten days is better for a mix of culture, beaches and rest.

Traffic is heavy in the south, so travel times are longer than distances suggest. Base yourself in two places rather than moving every day.

What to do in Bali

Visit the rice terraces of Ubud
Tiered fields in the hills, such as Tegallalang. Go early to avoid the crowds and the heat.
See a temple
Bali has thousands of temples. Uluwatu, on a sea cliff, and Tanah Lot, on a rock in the sea, are the best known.
Learn to surf
Beaches such as Kuta and Canggu have gentle waves for beginners. Lessons are widely available.
Climb a volcano at sunrise
Mount Batur is a popular early-morning trek to see sunrise over the island. Guided groups leave in the middle of the night.
Take a cooking class
Classes often start with a visit to a local market. A good way to learn about Balinese food.
Visit a waterfall
Forest waterfalls in the north and centre are popular for swimming. Wear shoes with grip.
Watch a traditional dance
Performances of kecak and legong dances take place in temples and halls. Check the schedule.
Snorkel or dive
Reefs off Nusa Penida, Amed and Menjangan have clear water and marine life. Choose a licensed operator.
Walk through Ubud's Monkey Forest
A sacred forest with temples and macaques. Keep food and valuables out of sight.
Watch the sunset at a beach club
Beach clubs in Seminyak and Uluwatu have sunbeds, music and drinks. A popular way to end the day.

What to eat and drink

Nasi goreng and mie goreng
Fried rice and fried noodles, usually with an egg. A cheap, filling dish found everywhere.
Babi guling
Roast suckling pig with spices, a Balinese speciality. Served with rice and vegetables.
Satay
Skewered, grilled meat served with peanut sauce. A popular snack.
Fresh tropical fruit
Mangosteen, dragon fruit and papaya are sold at markets. Try them fresh.
Balinese coffee
A local coffee, often served thick and sweet. A good drink to try.
Smoothie bowls and healthy cafes
Ubud and Canggu have a big wellness scene. Many cafes serve vegan and vegetarian food.
Bebek betutu
Duck slow-cooked in banana leaf with spices, a ceremonial dish. Often needs to be ordered in advance.
Lawar
A mixed salad of vegetables, coconut and minced meat. A traditional dish at ceremonies.

Getting around

Scooters are the most common way to get around, but traffic is chaotic and accidents are common. Only ride if you are experienced and have a licence.

Taxis and ride-hailing apps work in some areas, though local drivers can restrict apps in places. Many visitors hire a driver for the day.

Distances are short, but roads are slow. Allow extra time.

Good to know

  • The dry season runs roughly from April to October. The rainy season brings humidity and downpours but fewer crowds.
  • Be careful with drinks and tap water. Choose bottled or filtered water.
  • Respect temples. Dress modestly, and wear a sarong and sash where provided.
  • Monkeys at some temples can be aggressive. Keep bags and sunglasses secure.
  • Check the entry requirements and any visitor levy before you travel. Rules change, so use the official government site.
  • Bali is known for its ceremonies, and roads can close for processions. Be patient, and give way respectfully.
  • Bring a reusable bottle, as plastic waste is a concern. Many cafes offer refills.

Where to stay in Bali

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Ubud

Temples, galleries, the Sacred Monkey Forest and rice-field walks surround Bali's inland cultural hub. It suits first-timers wanting Balinese culture, food and greenery rather than a pure beach holiday; traffic is heavy and the coast is over an hour away.

Canggu

Surf beaches, cafés and beach clubs spread around Batu Bolong, Berawa and Echo Beach, with rice fields surviving between dense development. It suits nightlife and younger stays; severe road traffic, construction and rising prices undermine the relaxed image.

Seminyak

Beach clubs, boutiques and destination restaurants cluster around Petitenget, Kayu Aya and Seminyak Beach. It suits travellers wanting polished nightlife and easy resort comforts; accommodation is expensive, roads clog badly and the area feels heavily tourism-led.

Sanur

A long beachfront path, calm reef-protected water and established hotels give Sanur a slower east-coast rhythm. It works especially well for families and longer stays; nightlife is subdued and travellers chasing Bali's surf-and-beach-club scene may find it too quiet.

Nusa Dua

Landscaped resort grounds, convention hotels and pale sandy beaches dominate this purpose-built enclave on the Bukit Peninsula. It suits luxury, families and hassle-free resort stays; prices are high and the controlled resort environment offers less everyday Balinese character.

Uluwatu & Bingin

Limestone cliffs, surf breaks and small beaches surround Uluwatu Temple, Bingin and Padang Padang at Bali's southern tip. It suits couples, surfers and villa stays seeking dramatic coastline; steep access, scattered development and dependence on cars or scooters are the price.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 28°C25°C 28
Feb 28°C25°C 25
Mar 28°C25°C 25
Apr 28°C25°C 20
May 28°C25°C 15
Jun 27°C24°C 13
Jul 26°C24°C 13
Aug 26°C23°C 12
Sep 27°C23°C 12
Oct 28°C24°C 15
Nov 28°C24°C 20
Dec 28°C25°C 26

What it costs

A typical day in Bali, per person, in pounds.

£15

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£35

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£58

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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