Destination guide

Berlin

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Berlin is a city of reinvention. Few places in Europe carry so much recent history so openly, and few are so relaxed about it. Memorials, street art, parks and nightlife all sit within a short ride of each other.

It is spread out and informal. It rewards curiosity more than a checklist, and it is one of the best cities in Europe to simply wander.

How many days: 3

Three days gives you the main history sights and a couple of neighbourhoods. Four lets you add a museum island day and a slower afternoon in a park.

The city is large, so group your days by district. Pick one area each day and let the rest wait for another trip.

What to do in Berlin

Walk to the Brandenburg Gate
The best-known symbol of the city, close to the Reichstag and the memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe. A good place to start a day on foot.
See the Berlin Wall memorial
A stretch of the original border strip is preserved on Bernauer Strasse with a documentation centre. It is an affecting and well-explained visit.
Visit Museum Island
A group of major museums on an island in the river, including collections of ancient art and antiquities. Choose one or two rather than trying them all.
Climb the Reichstag dome
A glass dome on top of the parliament building with views across the city. Registration is needed in advance on the official site.
Look at the East Side Gallery
A long stretch of the wall covered in murals by artists from many countries. Walk it early in the day to avoid the crowds.
Spend time in Tempelhofer Feld
A former airport turned into a huge public park where people cycle, skate and picnic on the old runways.
Explore Kreuzberg and Neukölln
Lively districts with street art, markets, bars and a mix of cultures. Good for the evening and for a long lunch.
Visit the Jewish Museum
A striking building with a thoughtful account of German Jewish history. Give it a couple of hours, and expect to find it moving.
Take a walking tour
Free and paid walking tours cover the Cold War, the Nazi period and street art. A good way to understand the layers of the city in a short time.

What to eat and drink

Currywurst
A sliced pork sausage with curry-flavoured ketchup, usually with chips. A classic Berlin street snack.
Doner kebab
Berlin claims a version of the doner as its own, with meat in a bread pocket and salad and sauces. Lots of locals have a favourite.
Bakeries and brunch
German bakeries sell good bread, pretzels and pastries. Weekend brunch is a local habit, and popular places fill up.
Craft beer and local lager
Beer is a regular part of any meal. Try the local lagers and the lighter wheat beers, and sometimes a fruit-flavoured Berliner Weisse.
Vegetarian food
The city is one of the easiest in Europe for vegetarian and vegan food. Many restaurants cook it well.

Getting around

The U-Bahn, S-Bahn, trams and buses work together on one ticket system, with zones. Check which zones you need before buying.

Cycling is common and the city is flat. Bike lanes are marked, and rental is easy to find.

Many places have a quiet street feel after dark. Night services run on weekends, so you can usually get home late.

Good to know

  • Some shops and supermarkets close on Sundays. Plan ahead for food and supplies.
  • Cash is still more common here than in many European cities, so carry some for smaller places. Check ahead whether a restaurant takes cards.
  • Berlin is cold and grey in winter and pleasant in summer. Late spring and early autumn are a good balance.
  • For popular museums and the parliament dome, book timed entry in advance on the official sites.
  • Many sites with history need a little quiet time. Do not stack too many in one day.

Where to stay in Berlin

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Mitte

The historic centre rebuilt -- Museum Island, Brandenburg Gate, and the gallery-and-coffee spine around Auguststrasse. Maximum sightseeing density and the best transport web; evenings are quieter than the name suggests.

Prenzlauer Berg

Restored tenements, leafy squares, and pram-heavy Sunday brunch streets -- Berlin's polished family quarter with a village feel. Pretty, calm, and twenty minutes by tram from the action.

Kreuzberg

The counterculture heartland around Oranienstrasse and the canal -- Turkish markets, dive bars, and late-night everything. Grittier and cheaper than the west, with the city's best cheap eats.

Friedrichshain

East Side Gallery, RAW-Gelande, and the club belt towards Warschauer Strasse -- the loudest, youngest part of the former East. Sleep is optional here; pick a side street if it isn't.

Charlottenburg

Old West Berlin around Kurfurstendamm -- grand hotels, the palace gardens, and proper department stores. Staid by Berlin standards, but polished and comfortable for travellers who want calm over cool.

Neukolln

Weserstrasse's bar strip, Tempelhofer Feld's runway-park, and Berlin's most international food mile -- the neighbourhood the cool crowd moved to when Kreuzberg got expensive. Edgy, cheap, and genuinely exciting.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 3°C-2°C 12
Feb 5°C-1°C 9
Mar 8°C1°C 11
Apr 14°C4°C 9
May 19°C9°C 10
Jun 22°C13°C 11
Jul 24°C15°C 12
Aug 24°C15°C 10
Sep 19°C11°C 9
Oct 13°C7°C 9
Nov 8°C3°C 10
Dec 4°C-0°C 11

What it costs

A typical day in Berlin, per person, in pounds.

£54

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£105

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£118

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

Ready when you are

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