Bologna

How many days: 2

Two days is enough for the old centre, the towers and some serious eating. Three lets you add a day trip.

Modena and Parma are both a short train ride away. They are famous for balsamic vinegar and ham and cheese.

What to do in Bologna

Walk under the porticoes

Nearly forty kilometres of covered arcades line the streets. A walk up to the Sanctuary of San Luca runs under one of the longest.

Climb the Asinelli Tower

A leaning medieval tower with a view across the red rooftops. The climb is steep and narrow.

See Piazza Maggiore

The main square, surrounded by grand buildings and the vast basilica of San Petronio. A good place to sit and watch the city.

Visit the old university quarter

The university dates back to the eleventh century. The streets around it are full of bookshops, bars and cafes.

Browse the market streets

Narrow lanes in the Quadrilatero are filled with delis, bakeries and fresh pasta shops.

Take a day trip to Modena or Parma

Both are easy by train, with excellent food and beautiful old centres.

Look at the Two Towers

Two leaning medieval towers stand together at the heart of the city, symbols of Bologna. Their steep angle is visible from the street, and they make a good meeting point.

Walk to San Luca

A long covered walkway climbs from the city to a hilltop sanctuary, with views across the plain. It is a favourite exercise for locals.

See the Anatomical Theatre

A beautifully carved wooden lecture hall from the old university, where anatomy was once taught. A quiet and unusual visit.

What to eat and drink

Tagliatelle al ragù

The real Bolognese sauce is a slow-cooked meat ragù served with fresh egg pasta. It is never served with spaghetti here.

Tortellini

Small stuffed pasta, traditionally served in broth. A special-occasion dish for locals.

Mortadella

A large, silky cured sausage from Bologna. Eaten sliced in a sandwich or as an antipasto.

Lasagne

Layers of fresh green pasta, ragù and béchamel. A local classic.

Aperitivo

Drinks come with a plate of small snacks. A cheap and relaxed way to eat in the evening.

Fresh pasta

Bologna's pasta shops roll sheets by hand and cut tagliatelle to a standard width. Some will sell it to take away.

Parmigiano and balsamic vinegar

Nearby Parma and Modena produce the original cheese and vinegar. Buy small pieces from a deli to take home.

Getting around

The historic centre is compact, and walking is the best way to get around. Buses fill in the gaps.

Fast trains link Bologna to Florence, Milan, Venice and Rome. It is one of Italy's main rail hubs.

Bikes are common, although cycling in the arcaded centre needs care.

Good to know

• Many restaurants close in the afternoon, and some close for August. Check in advance.
• Bologna is humid and hot in summer, and foggy in winter. Spring and autumn are best.
• Book popular restaurants ahead, particularly at weekends.
• Cover shoulders and knees when you enter churches.
• The porticoes make the city walkable in any weather, but cobbles and uneven paving can be tiring. Comfortable shoes are a must.
• A couple of days is enough for the city, but food lovers often want more. A third day trip to Parma or Modena works well.
• Bologna is a university city, so it is lively in term time and quieter in August, when students and locals leave.