Buenos Aires is a big, elegant, European-feeling capital with a Latin heart. Wide avenues, grand cafes, tango halls, parks and bookshops make it one of the best city breaks in South America.
Dinner starts late, the nightlife runs even later, and the city rewards slow walking between neighbourhoods.
How many days: 4
Four days covers the main districts, a tango evening and a football or market day. Three is enough for the highlights.
Plan late dinners, and use the afternoons for walking and cafes.
What to do in Buenos Aires
- Walk around the Plaza de Mayo
- The historic centre, with the pink presidential palace and the cathedral. A good starting point.
- Wander through La Boca
- A colourful working-class neighbourhood famous for its painted houses. Stick to the main tourist streets.
- Visit Recoleta Cemetery
- An elaborate necropolis of marble tombs, where Eva Peron is buried. Quietly impressive.
- Browse the San Telmo market
- A Sunday street market of antiques, art and street performers in a cobbled quarter.
- See a tango show or milonga
- Shows range from polished stage performances to relaxed local dance halls. Many offer a lesson.
- Stroll through Palermo's parks
- Large green parks, rose gardens and lakes. Popular for walking and cycling at the weekend.
- Visit a grand bookshop
- A former theatre now houses one of the world's most beautiful bookshops.
- Take a day trip to the Tigre delta
- A maze of rivers and islands north of the city, reached by train.
- Join a football match or visit a stadium
- Football is a passion here. A match is a big occasion, so go with a trusted tour or a local.
- Walk along Puerto Madero
- A smart waterfront with old warehouses turned into restaurants, and a nature reserve behind it.
- Visit a modern art museum
- The city has several museums with strong collections of Latin American art.
- Take a cafe break
- Grand old cafes serve coffee and pastries, and are a good place to watch the city.
- Walk through the Japanese Garden
- A calm garden with ponds, bridges and a teahouse, in the middle of a park.
- Visit a local fair
- Weekend artisan fairs sell leather, jewellery and crafts in many neighbourhoods.
- Take a walking tour of the old centre
- Guided walks explain the city's immigration and political history, and help you find your way around.
What to eat and drink
- Asado
- Argentine barbecue with beef, sausages and offal, cooked over wood. A national ritual.
- Empanadas
- Baked pastries with beef, cheese or vegetables. A perfect snack.
- Milanesa
- A breaded beef or chicken cutlet, often served with chips.
- Dulce de leche
- A caramel spread used in desserts, alfajores and ice cream.
- Malbec
- The country's signature red wine, excellent with beef.
- Medialunas
- Small sweet croissants, eaten with coffee in a classic cafe.
- Choripan
- A grilled sausage in a roll, a street food classic.
- Provoleta
- Grilled cheese, a favourite starter at a barbecue.
- Ice cream
- Argentine gelato is excellent, with rich dulce de leche flavours.
Getting around
The subway is cheap and easy for the main sights, and buses cover the rest. A rechargeable card is needed for both.
Taxis are plentiful, and ride-hailing apps work too.
Many neighbourhoods are good for walking.
Good to know
- Dinner is eaten late, often after nine in the evening. Lunch is also late.
- Take care of your belongings, as pickpocketing is common in crowded areas.
- Check the latest advice on exchange rates and cash, as local conditions can change.
- Tipping is customary in restaurants.
- Entry rules vary by nationality, so check the official site.
- The city is large, with distinct neighbourhoods. Pick a base in Palermo, Recoleta or San Telmo, depending on your mood.
- Spanish is the main language, and a few phrases are appreciated.
- Winters are mild but damp, and summers are hot. Spring and autumn are the nicest times.
- Parks and plazas are busy at weekends. Locals share mate, a herbal tea, from a gourd. Accept it politely if offered.