United States

Chicago

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Chicago is a big, friendly, lakeside city with some of the finest architecture in the world. A glass-and-steel skyline rises beside a long public waterfront, and the neighbourhoods behind it have strong food, music and sporting traditions.

It is easy to get around and good value for a major American city, and summer brings festivals, beaches and outdoor dining.

How many days: 3

Three days covers the architecture, a museum or two, the lakefront and an evening of music. Two is enough for the highlights.

Use the elevated trains to link neighbourhoods, and keep an evening free for jazz or blues.

What to do in Chicago

Take an architecture river cruise
Boat tours along the river explain the history of the city's skyscrapers from the water. A popular and genuinely informative way to see downtown.
Walk through Millennium Park
A public park with a giant reflective bean sculpture, a fountain and a concert space. A good place to start in the city centre.
Visit the Art Institute
One of the great art museums of the United States, with a strong collection of impressionist and American art.
Walk or cycle the lakefront
A long path runs along Lake Michigan, with beaches, parks and views of the skyline.
Go up a skyscraper
Several towers have observation decks high above the lake. Go on a clear day, or at sunset.
Spend an evening listening to live blues or jazz
The city is a home of blues. Small clubs across several neighbourhoods have live music most nights.
Explore a neighbourhood outside the centre
Wicker Park, Pilsen and Hyde Park each have murals, shops and cafes with a local flavour.
See a baseball game
Wrigley Field is one of the oldest stadiums in the country, and a game there is a classic summer outing.
Visit the Field Museum or the science museum
Large museums with dinosaurs, ancient Egypt, and hands-on science. Good for a rainy day or with children.
Stroll along the Riverwalk
A path along the river links bars, cafes and public art, with views of the bridges.
Visit Lincoln Park Zoo
A city zoo beside a large park, with a lakeside walk nearby.

What to eat and drink

Deep-dish pizza
A thick, pie-style pizza baked in a pan, with layers of cheese and toppings. It takes time to cook, so order early.
Chicago-style hot dog
A hot dog with a long list of toppings, and famously no ketchup.
Italian beef sandwich
Thinly sliced roast beef in a roll, dipped in juices. A local classic.
Tavern-style pizza
A thin, crisp pizza cut in squares, popular with locals.
Food from every culture
Polish, Mexican, Greek and Ethiopian restaurants are found across the city.
Craft beer
Small breweries and taprooms are found in nearly every neighbourhood.
Garrett-style popcorn
A mix of caramel and cheese popcorn, a Chicago habit.
Brunch
Chicagoans love a long weekend brunch. Book ahead for the best places.

Getting around

The elevated trains and the subway form a network that covers downtown and most visitor areas. A contactless card or phone works on most.

Walking is pleasant in the centre, and the lakefront path is flat.

Ride-hailing apps are plentiful, and bikes are available for hire.

Good to know

  • Winters are very cold and windy. Pack warm layers if you visit between late autumn and early spring.
  • Summers are warm and busy, with many festivals. Book ahead for popular events.
  • Tipping is expected in restaurants and bars.
  • Prices on menus exclude tax, so allow for it.
  • Visitors from many countries need an electronic travel authorisation. Check the official site.
  • The wind off the lake can be sharp even in spring. A windproof layer is useful.
  • Sports fans should check fixtures early, as popular games sell out.
  • Neighbourhoods feel quite different. Pick two or three rather than trying to see them all.

Where to stay in Chicago

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

The Loop

Millennium Park, the Art Institute, Chicago Riverwalk and Theatre District make the Loop the strongest first-time sightseeing base. It suits short and business stays; weekday bustle, premium hotels and a quieter late-night atmosphere than nearby River North are the trade-offs.

River North

Gallery-filled former warehouses, architecture, restaurants and late-night bars make River North one of Chicago's strongest entertainment districts. It suits dining and nightlife-focused trips; weekend noise, dense development and expensive accommodation make it a poor choice for tranquillity.

West Loop

Former meatpacking warehouses now hold Restaurant Row, acclaimed dining and bars around Fulton Market, with Downtown close by. It suits food-led and business trips; hotel prices have risen sharply, traditional sightseeing is limited and there is no lakefront access.

Lincoln Park

Lakefront green space, a free zoo, gardens and nearby beaches give Lincoln Park one of Chicago's strongest family and residential settings. It suits couples and longer stays; Downtown attractions require a short journey and nightlife is less concentrated than River North.

Wicker Park & Bucktown

Milwaukee Avenue, vintage shops, indie music venues and the 606 create a creative neighbourhood packed with restaurants and bars. It suits repeat visitors wanting local nightlife and better value; major lakefront sights are farther away and weekends can be noisy.

Magnificent Mile & Streeterville

Michigan Avenue shopping, landmark architecture, Navy Pier and easy access to Oak Street Beach make this a polished lakefront visitor base. It suits families and upscale first trips; accommodation and dining are expensive and the neighbourhood feels heavily visitor-oriented.

What it costs

A typical day in Chicago, per person, in pounds.

£92

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£244

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

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