Destination guide

Copenhagen

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Copenhagen is compact, calm and very good-looking. Colourful houses line the canals, bikes outnumber cars, and design is part of everyday life in the shops, cafes and public spaces.

It is an easy city to like. The pace is relaxed, the harbour is clean enough for a swim in summer, and almost everything is reachable on two wheels.

How many days: 3

Three days is plenty for the main sights and a slow, well-fed city break. Two works for a quick trip.

Add a day trip to a castle on the coast north of the city or across the bridge to Sweden if you have time. Both are easy by train.

What to do in Copenhagen

Stroll Nyhavn
The colourful harbour with old wooden ships and waterside cafes is the best-known view in the city. Go early, as it fills quickly later.
Visit Tivoli Gardens
One of the oldest amusement parks in the world, with gardens, rides and evening lights. It has a fairytale feel, especially after dark.
Take a canal tour
Short boat tours pass the harbour, the opera house and the Little Mermaid. They are a good way to get your bearings.
Cycle around the city
Rent a bike and follow the dedicated lanes. Follow the local rules and signals, and lock the bike every time.
Explore Christiansborg Palace
The seat of the Danish parliament, with royal rooms and a tower with views. A good first stop in the old centre.
Walk through Christiania
A self-governing alternative neighbourhood with its own rules, including no photography in some parts. Read the signs and be respectful.
Browse Nørrebro and Vesterbro
Neighbourhoods with independent shops, bars, cafes and street life. Good for an afternoon of wandering.
See the Little Mermaid
A small bronze statue on the waterfront, famous but modest in size. Combine it with a walk along the harbour front and the nearby fortress park.
Visit a design museum
Denmark is famous for design, and the city has museums covering furniture, architecture and craft. A good rainy-day choice.
Swim in the harbour
In summer, public harbour baths let you swim in clean water in the middle of the city. Check the official city site for current water quality.

What to eat and drink

Smørrebrød
Open sandwiches on dark rye bread with toppings such as fish, egg or roast beef. A traditional lunch.
Pastries
Danish pastries here are called wienerbrød and are worth trying fresh from a bakery. Cinnamon swirls are a good place to start.
New Nordic cooking
The city is known for modern Nordic restaurants built around local and seasonal produce. Book well ahead for popular ones.
Hot dogs
Danish hot dogs, with crispy onions, pickles and remoulade, are sold from stands across the city. A cheap, quick meal.
Coffee
Copenhagen has a serious specialty coffee scene. Cafes are cosy and good for long breaks.
Seasonal local produce
Markets and food halls sell fish, cheese, vegetables and baked goods. A good way to taste the city on a budget.

Getting around

The metro, trains and buses use one ticket system, and the metro runs through the night. The centre is small enough to walk or cycle.

Cycling is the way locals get around. The city is flat and the dedicated lanes are everywhere.

From the airport, the metro and train reach the centre quickly.

Good to know

  • Copenhagen is one of the most expensive cities in Europe, so budget with that in mind. Look for lunch menus and bakery stops rather than long dinners.
  • Most places take cards, and some are card-only. Cash is rarely needed.
  • Summer is long and bright, while winter is cold, dark and cosy. Pack layers whatever the season.
  • Cyclists have priority on their lanes. Never walk or stand in a bike lane.
  • Many shops close early on Sundays, and some close entirely. Check in advance.

Where to stay in Copenhagen

5 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Indre By

The medieval city centre -- Stroget, Nyhavn, and the palace quarter inside the old ramparts. Every sight is walkable and every corner is photogenic; the premium-location price is the catch.

Vesterbro

The old meatpacking district turned coolest-in-town -- Kodboderne's bars, Istedgade's boutiques, and Tivoli at its edge. Lively and central with the city's best bar scene.

Norrebro

The multicultural north-west -- Superkilen park, Jægersborggade's coffee strip, and shawarma-to-natural-wine dining. Grittier, younger, and cheaper than the centre, with the best food value in Copenhagen.

Frederiksberg

A leafy municipality inside the city -- palace gardens, the zoo, and grand avenues of apartments. Copenhagen's calmest, greenest base; metro into the centre in ten minutes.

Christianshavn

The canal district built by Dutch engineers -- houseboats, the Church of Our Saviour's spiral, and Freetown Christiania at its edge. Atmospheric and slightly bohemian, a stroll from the centre.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 3°C-0°C 12
Feb 3°C-1°C 9
Mar 6°C0°C 10
Apr 11°C4°C 10
May 15°C8°C 10
Jun 18°C12°C 12
Jul 21°C14°C 12
Aug 20°C14°C 13
Sep 17°C12°C 11
Oct 12°C8°C 12
Nov 7°C4°C 11
Dec 4°C1°C 12

What it costs

A typical day in Copenhagen, per person, in pounds.

£63

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£219

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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