Destination guide

Crete

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Crete is the largest of the Greek islands, and feels like a country of its own. It has mountains, gorges, ancient ruins, old Venetian harbour towns and long beaches, all with a strong local identity.

It is big enough to need a car and a plan. Choose a region as a base, rather than trying to cover the whole island in one trip.

How many days: 7

A week allows time for one or two regions, with beach days between sightseeing. A shorter stay works if you base yourself in one place.

The island is roughly 260 kilometres long, and drives take longer than they look on the map. Mountain roads are slow.

What to do in Crete

Visit the Palace of Knossos
The ruins of the Minoan palace near Heraklion are the most important archaeological site on the island. Pair it with a visit to the archaeological museum in town.
Walk in the Samaria Gorge
One of the longest gorges in Europe, with a long walk down to the sea. It is open in the warmer months only, and requires good shoes and fitness.
Explore Chania
A harbour town with Venetian and Ottoman buildings, a lighthouse and narrow lanes. A relaxed, photogenic place.
Visit Rethymno
A smaller old town with a fortress and winding lanes. A good stop on the north coast.
Swim at Elafonissi or Balos
Two famous beaches with pale sand and clear water. Both are popular, so arrive early.
Drive into the mountains
Villages in the mountains keep traditional life, with stone houses and local tavernas. A good escape from the coast.
Take a boat trip
Boat trips run to small islands and secluded beaches from many ports. Check the weather and the operator.
Visit Heraklion
The island's largest city has a fortified harbour, a busy market and a major archaeological museum. It is more working than pretty, but worth a day.
Stay in a village
Small family-run guesthouses in villages give a slower pace and a chance to eat local home cooking. A good alternative to the big resorts.

What to eat and drink

Cretan salad and dakos
A rusk topped with tomato and soft cheese, with olive oil. A simple and refreshing local dish.
Local cheese and honey
Sheep and goat cheeses are made across the island. Look for thyme honey as well.
Lamb and goat
Slow-cooked meat is a speciality in the mountains. Look for traditional tavernas.
Olive oil
Crete produces some of the best olive oil in Greece. It is used in almost every dish.
Raki
A strong grape spirit served at the end of a meal, often for free. Sip it slowly.
Fresh vegetables and wild greens
The Cretan diet is famously healthy, based on vegetables, pulses and olive oil.
Kalitsounia
Small cheese or herb pies, baked or fried. Often made for festivals and sold in bakeries.

Getting around

A hire car is the most practical way to see the island. Roads are mostly good, but mountain routes are winding.

Long-distance buses connect the main towns. Local buses reach many beaches and villages.

Ferries connect Crete with Athens and the other islands. Check timetables in advance.

Good to know

  • Summer is hot and busy, and the wind can be strong in July and August. Spring and autumn are good for walking.
  • Many restaurants and shops outside the cities close in winter. Check in advance.
  • The Samaria Gorge and other walks have official opening dates. Check the official site.
  • Respect local customs when visiting churches and monasteries. Cover shoulders and knees.
  • Dinner starts late, and restaurants often bring a small free dessert or a glass of raki at the end of a meal. Accept it, as it is part of the hospitality.
  • Roads in the mountains and along the coast are narrow, and distances take longer than expected. Allow extra time for every drive.

Where to stay in Crete

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Heraklion

Heraklion suits travellers prioritising archaeology, museums, ferry links and easy access to Crete's main airport. It is a lively working city rather than a classic beach resort, so travellers seeking postcard coastal scenery may prefer another base.

Chania

Chania suits first-time visitors wanting a walkable historic centre, Venetian harbour, strong restaurant scene and access to western Crete. It is highly appealing for longer stays, but it is a substantial journey from HER and the old town becomes busy in summer.

Rethymno

Rethymno combines a Venetian old town with a long beach, making it a strong compromise between sightseeing and a conventional seaside holiday. It is smaller and calmer than Heraklion or Chania, though neither of Crete's main airports is immediately nearby.

Agios Nikolaos

Agios Nikolaos suits couples and families looking for a compact seaside town with beaches, restaurants and an attractive waterfront. It is relaxed without being isolated, although travellers focused on western Crete's major sights will face long drives.

Hersonissos

Hersonissos is a developed resort base suited to families, groups and travellers wanting beaches, nightlife and plenty of organised facilities. It is convenient from Heraklion Airport but feels more commercial and energetic than Crete's historic towns.

Elounda

Elounda is aimed at travellers seeking a quiet, high-end resort stay with strong sea views and destination hotels. It is romantic and relaxing but comparatively expensive, and visitors wanting to explore widely will benefit from a car.

What it costs

A typical day in Crete, per person, in pounds.

£47

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£98

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£147

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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