Destination guide

Cusco

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Cusco was the capital of the Inca empire, and its stone walls still form the base of Spanish colonial buildings. At more than three thousand metres, it is a charming, cobbled city and the gateway to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley.

Spend time here getting used to the altitude before doing anything strenuous.

How many days: 4

Four days gives time to adjust, see the city and the Sacred Valley, and visit Machu Picchu. Three is the minimum.

Take it easy on the first day, and leave the hardest walks for later.

What to do in Cusco

Walk around the Plaza de Armas
The main square, with arcades, a cathedral and a church. The heart of the old city.
See the stonework of the Inca walls
Huge stones fit together without mortar, and are visible on several lanes in the centre.
Visit the Sun Temple
The Qorikancha was the most important Inca temple, and the Spanish built a church on top of it.
Wander through San Blas
A hillside neighbourhood of artisan shops, cafes and steep lanes.
Visit the Sacred Valley
A river valley of terraces, markets and ruins, such as Pisac and Ollantaytambo.
Visit Machu Picchu
The famous Inca citadel is reached by train and bus. Tickets and entry times are controlled, so book well ahead on the official site.
Explore the ruins above the city
Sacsayhuaman is a giant stone fortress on the hill above Cusco. A good first walk.
Visit a local market
San Pedro market sells fruit, cheese, textiles and local dishes.
Take a walking tour with a local guide
A guide can explain the Inca and colonial layers, which are easy to miss.
Visit a weaving community
Villages in the valley show traditional textiles. Buy directly from the weavers, who set fair prices.
Take the train to Aguas Calientes
Scenic trains wind through the river valley to the base of Machu Picchu.
Visit the salt terraces and Moray
Maras salt pans and the circular terraces of Moray are spectacular stops in the Sacred Valley.
Take a short hike to a viewpoint
Steps lead to a hilltop chapel overlooking the city. Take it slowly at altitude.

What to eat and drink

Cuy
Roast guinea pig, a traditional Andean dish.
Alpaca steaks
A lean, tender meat found in many restaurants.
Quinoa soup
A warm, light soup that is good at altitude.
Choclo con queso
Large-kernel corn with fresh cheese, a common snack.
Coca tea
A mild herbal tea, often drunk at altitude.
Chicha
A traditional corn drink, sometimes fermented.
Fresh trout
Local river trout is common on menus.
Hot chocolate and bread
A warm drink for cold evenings in the old city.
Andean potatoes and corn
Local varieties come in many colours and shapes, and are served with cheese and sauces.
Empanadas and baked pastries
Bakeries sell warm snacks for cold mornings.

Getting around

The historic centre is compact and walkable, but the hills are steep and the air is thin.

Taxis are cheap, and local buses link the Sacred Valley.

Trains run from the valley to Machu Picchu.

Good to know

  • Altitude sickness can affect anyone. Rest, drink water and avoid alcohol on the first day.
  • The weather is dry from May to September, and wet in the other months.
  • Nights are cold, so pack layers.
  • Machu Picchu rules change, so check the official site for ticketing.
  • Check entry rules for your nationality.
  • Take it slowly on arrival. Many visitors stay in the lower Sacred Valley first, which is less high.
  • Carry some small notes and coins for tips and local markets.
  • A reputable guide is useful for the ruins, as many sites have little signage.
  • Scams and unofficial tour sellers exist. Book through a licensed operator.
  • Mornings are clear and sunny, and afternoons can cloud over. Plan outdoor sights early.

Where to stay in Cusco

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Historic Centre

Cusco's Historic Centre surrounds the Plaza de Armas and contains colonial churches, Inca stonework, restaurants and many of the city's main visitor attractions. It is the most convenient choice for first-time visitors, although steep streets, crowds and tourist prices can reduce tranquillity.

San Blas

San Blas is a hillside neighbourhood above the historic centre, known for narrow lanes, artisan workshops, cafés and panoramic views across Cusco. It is especially attractive for couples and boutique stays, but steep climbs can be tiring at altitude.

San Pedro

San Pedro sits west of the Plaza de Armas and is centred on its famous market, offering inexpensive restaurants, guesthouses and an energetic local atmosphere. It is excellent for budget travellers, though it feels busier and less polished than San Blas.

Lucrepata

Lucrepata is a quieter residential area immediately east of San Blas, offering guesthouses, apartments and a more local atmosphere within walking distance of the historic centre. It is well suited to longer stays, although the uphill terrain remains noticeable.

Wanchaq

Wanchaq is a practical residential and commercial district closer to Cusco's airport, with local restaurants, shops and comparatively affordable accommodation. It is convenient for transport and longer stays but lacks the historic atmosphere of the old centre.

Sacsayhuamán Hills

The hills above Cusco near Sacsayhuamán offer dramatic views, countryside-style accommodation and quick access to one of the region's most significant archaeological sites. They suit travellers seeking peace and scenery, but taxis are useful for reaching central restaurants and nightlife.

What it costs

A typical day in Cusco, per person, in pounds.

£19

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£49

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£127

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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