Destination guide

Delhi

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Delhi is India's capital, a vast and layered city where Mughal tombs, colonial boulevards, crowded bazaars and modern towers sit side by side. It is intense, chaotic and endlessly rewarding for visitors who enjoy history and food.

It is also the gateway to the Taj Mahal and Rajasthan.

How many days: 3

Three days covers Old Delhi, New Delhi and a few monuments. Add a day trip to Agra if you can.

Plan early starts to avoid the heat, and keep the afternoons for rest.

What to do in Delhi

Visit the Red Fort
A huge Mughal fortress in the heart of Old Delhi. A good starting point for the historic city.
See Jama Masjid
One of the largest mosques in India. Dress modestly, and climb a minaret for views.
Walk through Chandni Chowk
A dense old bazaar famous for its food and its spices. Hold your belongings.
Explore Humayun's Tomb
A grand garden tomb that inspired the Taj Mahal. A calm, beautiful stop.
See India Gate and the government quarter
Wide boulevards built in the colonial period. Pleasant in the evening.
Visit Qutub Minar
A tall tower and ruins dating from the early Delhi sultanate.
Visit a temple or gurdwara
The Sikh temple of Bangla Sahib welcomes visitors, and serves a free meal.
Take a day trip to Agra
Trains and cars run to the Taj Mahal. Start early.
Visit the Lotus Temple
A modern temple shaped like a flower, open to people of all faiths. Calm and quiet inside.
Walk through Lodhi Garden
A park with ancient tombs among trees. Popular with joggers in the morning.
Visit a big museum
The National Museum has collections from across Indian history. Good for a hot afternoon.
Take a heritage walk
Guided walks in Old Delhi explain the history, and help with navigation. Book with a trusted guide.
Visit a stepwell
Agrasen ki Baoli is an old stepwell in the middle of the city, a quiet and photogenic spot.
Browse a handicraft market
Government emporiums and markets sell textiles and crafts at fixed prices. A good place to learn what is fair.
Visit the Raj Ghat memorial
A peaceful riverside garden marking the spot where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated. Remove your shoes at the entrance.

What to eat and drink

Chaat
Savoury street snacks like samosas and pani puri. Choose busy stalls.
Butter chicken
A rich, creamy dish said to have originated in the city.
Parathas
Stuffed flatbreads, eaten for breakfast or lunch.
Kebabs
Old Delhi is famous for its grilled meats.
Lassi and sweet treats
Creamy yoghurt drinks and sweets such as jalebi are sold at street stalls.
Thali
A plate of small dishes, giving a taste of several things.
Dal makhani
Slow-cooked black lentils with butter and cream, a northern classic.
Fresh naan and tandoori dishes
Breads and meats cooked in clay ovens.
Masala chai
Spiced milk tea, sold at roadside stalls and cafes.
Kulfi and falooda
Dense Indian ice cream, often served with noodles and rose syrup. A cooling end to a spicy meal.

Getting around

The metro is clean, fast and cheap, and the best way to avoid traffic.

Auto-rickshaws and ride-hailing apps cover the rest.

Agree on a price before taking a rickshaw.

Good to know

  • Pollution can be high in winter. Check air quality and consider a mask.
  • Drink bottled or filtered water, and eat at busy places to reduce the risk of stomach upsets.
  • Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees.
  • Expect crowds and noise, and keep belongings close.
  • Check visa rules and the current official travel advice before you go.
  • Hire a driver for day trips, as Delhi traffic is hard to handle alone.
  • Delhi is very hot in summer, and the monsoon brings humid heat. Winter is the most comfortable time.
  • Metro stations have security checks, so allow a few extra minutes.
  • Plan your trip to Agra as a separate day, because the roads and trains take time and you will want to be rested.

Where to stay in Delhi

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Connaught Place

Connaught Place is one of central Delhi's main commercial and entertainment hubs, with colonial-era arcades, shops, restaurants and strong metro connections. It is highly convenient for first-time visitors, though traffic, crowds and noise can be intense.

Old Delhi

Old Delhi offers an intense concentration of historic monuments, markets, mosques and legendary street food around Chandni Chowk. It is unbeatable for atmosphere and sightseeing, but congestion, noise and limited upscale accommodation make it less suitable for travellers prioritising comfort.

Aerocity

Aerocity is a modern hotel and business district immediately beside Delhi's international airport, with upscale hotels, restaurants and conference facilities. It is excellent for stopovers and business travel, but poorly placed for travellers wanting to explore Delhi primarily on foot.

South Delhi

South Delhi covers affluent neighbourhoods such as Greater Kailash, Defence Colony and Hauz Khas, offering excellent dining, nightlife, shopping and a more residential feel. It suits longer stays and repeat visitors, though distances between attractions can be significant.

Lodhi Colony

Lodhi Colony and nearby Lodhi Gardens offer leafy streets, public art, parks and convenient access to several major historic sites. The area feels calmer and greener than central Delhi while remaining reasonably connected, though nightlife is limited.

Paharganj

Paharganj is a dense budget-travel district near New Delhi Railway Station, known for cheap accommodation, backpacker cafés and chaotic markets. It is extremely affordable and centrally placed, but noise, congestion and inconsistent hotel quality make it unsuitable for travellers seeking comfort or tranquillity.

What it costs

A typical day in Delhi, per person, in pounds.

£14

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£36

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£97

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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