Destination guide

Dublin

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Dublin is a compact, friendly capital with a rich literary history, a lively pub culture and Georgian squares. It is easy to walk across, and the people are known for their chat and humour.

It is a good city for a long weekend. The coast and the mountains are both close, so it pairs well with a day out of town.

How many days: 3

Three days covers the main sights, a day trip and plenty of evenings in pubs. Two works for a quick break.

Popular day trips go to the coastal village of Howth, the seaside town of Dalkey and the mountains of Wicklow. All are within easy reach by train, bus or tour.

What to do in Dublin

Visit Trinity College and the Book of Kells
The university holds the illuminated Book of Kells and a magnificent old library. Book timed tickets ahead on the official site.
Walk through St Stephen's Green
A Victorian park in the centre with ponds, lawns and flower beds. A good place for a picnic.
Explore Temple Bar and the old city
The cobbled streets are busy and lively. Pubs have live music, though prices are higher in this area.
See Kilmainham Gaol
A former prison that played a part in Irish history. The tours are excellent, so book in advance.
Tour the Guinness Storehouse
A big visitor centre dedicated to the famous stout, with a bar at the top. A touristy but popular stop.
Walk by the river Liffey
Bridges, quays and the Ha'penny Bridge give a good sense of the city. The walk along the quays is pleasant at dusk.
Take the coastal train to Howth
A fishing village on a headland with cliff walks, seafood and sea views. A good half-day trip.
Visit the National Museum of Ireland
Several free museums cover archaeology, natural history and decorative arts. A good place to shelter from the rain.
Walk to the Phoenix Park
One of the largest enclosed city parks in Europe, home to wild deer and a zoo. A good break from the busy centre.

What to eat and drink

Irish stew
A slow-cooked dish of lamb or beef, potatoes and root vegetables. Traditional and filling.
Seafood chowder
A creamy soup of fish and shellfish, served with brown bread. A good lunch.
A pint of Guinness
Poured in two stages and left to settle. Try it in a traditional pub.
Irish breakfast
A cooked breakfast with sausages, rashers, eggs, black and white pudding and soda bread. Plan for a quiet morning after it.
Irish whiskey
Smooth and usually triple-distilled. Many pubs have a good selection.
Soda bread and Irish butter
Soda bread is baked fresh in many cafes and bakeries. It is excellent with local butter and smoked salmon.

Getting around

The city centre is small and walkable. Most main sights are within a short walk of each other.

Buses and trams cover the wider city, and a local rail line runs along the coast. Contactless payment is available on many routes.

Taxis and ride-hailing apps are available, but traffic can be heavy.

Good to know

  • The weather is changeable, and rain is possible all year. Pack a waterproof and layers.
  • Ireland uses the euro in the Republic. Northern Ireland uses the pound sterling.
  • Live music in pubs is common in the evenings. Look for sessions of traditional Irish music, where musicians play together informally.
  • Dublin is a popular destination, so book accommodation early for weekends and festivals.
  • Pubs often stop serving food early in the evening, so check the kitchen times if you want dinner. Many also have no table service, so order at the bar.
  • The city has many free museums and galleries, making it easier to fit in the cultural highlights without spending much.

Where to stay in Dublin

5 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Temple Bar

The cobbled cultural quarter on the south bank -- pubs, buskers, and the city's most photographed lanes. Brilliant for a night out, expensive for a drink, and rarely quiet before closing time.

Georgian Quarter

Merrion Square and Fitzwilliam Street -- the elegant Georgian south side with the National Gallery, St Stephen's Green, and the city's finest hotel row. The grown-up base: walkable, beautiful, and calm after dark.

Stoneybatter

Dublin's village-in-the-city on the north side -- red-brick terraces, third-wave coffee, and pubs full of locals rather than tour groups. A twenty-minute walk or quick LUAS hop into the centre.

Portobello

The canal-side quarter around Camden Street -- brunch cafes, Victorian terraces, and a young-professional crowd. Ten minutes' walk to Grafton Street but a world away in pace and price.

Smithfield

The regenerated north-side square -- the Old Jameson Distillery, the Lighthouse Cinema, and converted warehouses. Edgier and cheaper than the south side, with the LUAS running straight to Abbey Street.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 8°C4°C 13
Feb 8°C3°C 12
Mar 10°C4°C 12
Apr 12°C6°C 14
May 15°C8°C 14
Jun 17°C11°C 13
Jul 19°C13°C 15
Aug 19°C13°C 14
Sep 17°C11°C 12
Oct 13°C9°C 12
Nov 10°C6°C 13
Dec 8°C4°C 13

What it costs

A typical day in Dublin, per person, in pounds.

£70

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£136

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£157

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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