Croatia

Dubrovnik

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Dubrovnik is a walled city on the Adriatic coast, with white stone streets, terracotta roofs and a sea that is genuinely blue. The old town is small, car-free and beautiful, and it is one of the most visited places on the Croatian coast.

That popularity is the main thing to plan around. The old town fills up in summer, especially when cruise ships dock. The best times to see it are early morning and evening, when the crowds thin out and the light is soft.

How many days: 2 to 3

Two days is enough for the walls, the old town and a swim. Three days lets you take a boat trip or a day out to the islands.

The Elafiti Islands are the easy day trip by boat, and the town of Cavtat is a short trip down the coast. Check the timetables and the weather before you book.

What to do in Dubrovnik

Walk the city walls
A circuit of the walls is the best way to see the old town from above. Go early, as it gets very hot and crowded later. Check the official site for ticket arrangements.
Wander the Stradun
The main street of the old town is a wide limestone avenue, polished smooth by centuries of feet. It is busy by day and lovely in the evening.
Get lost in the side streets
Behind the main street, steep stepped lanes run up the hill, with washing lines, small shops and cafes. The quietest parts are the furthest from the gates.
Take the cable car up Mount Srđ
A short ride gives you a view over the old town and the islands. Sunset is the popular time.
Swim and take a boat
Dubrovnik is a sea city. The rocky beaches near the old town are pleasant, and boats run to nearby islands. Lokrum Island is a short ferry ride away.
Visit the Rector's Palace
A Gothic and Renaissance building that tells the story of the old republic. A good indoor stop in the heat.
Paddle around the walls
Sea kayak tours circle the old town's walls from the water, with stops for a swim. The view of the walls from below is unusual.
Visit the Franciscan Monastery
A quiet cloister inside the walls with a well-known old pharmacy. A calm stop in the middle of the busy old town.

What to eat and drink

Fresh seafood
Grilled fish, mussels and squid are the staples. Ask what was caught that day, and expect fish to be sold by weight.
Black risotto
Rice cooked with cuttlefish and its ink. A Dalmatian speciality, and a striking dish.
Peka
Meat or octopus slow-cooked under an iron bell with vegetables. It usually needs ordering a few hours ahead.
Dalmatian ham and cheese
Smoked ham and local cheeses, often served as a starter with olives.
Rozata
A caramel custard pudding, the city's traditional dessert.
Local wine
The nearby Pelješac peninsula makes well-known red wines. Ask for a local bottle.
Oysters from Ston
The bay near Ston, up the coast, is known for its oysters and mussels. Many restaurants in the city serve them, and they are best eaten simply.

Getting around

The old town is pedestrian only, and everything inside the walls is walkable. Expect stairs and steep lanes, and stone that is slippery when wet.

Local buses connect the old town to the nearby neighbourhoods and beaches. Check the operator's website for current tickets and routes.

The airport is about twenty kilometres south of the city. Buses and taxis run to the old town. Check the options before you land.

Good to know

  • Croatia uses the euro. Cards are widely accepted, but small places may want cash.
  • Summer is hot and crowded. Go early, take water and sun protection, and avoid the middle of the day.
  • Cruise ships bring large crowds on some days. If you can, check the port schedule before choosing when to visit the old town.
  • Wear shoes with good grip. The polished stone is slippery.
  • July and August are the hottest and busiest months. Spring and early autumn have milder weather and smaller crowds.

Where to stay in Dubrovnik

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Old Town

Inside the city walls, limestone lanes connect Stradun, Rector's Palace and the Old Port, with restaurants and bars packed into a tiny area. It is the classic first-time base; crowds, stairs, nightlife noise and some of Dubrovnik's highest prices are the trade-off.

Pile

Just outside Pile Gate, this compact district gives immediate access to the walls, Fort Lovrijenac and buses without sleeping inside the busiest lanes. It suits families and short stays; sea views are limited and accommodation still carries an Old Town premium.

Ploce

Hillside streets east of the walls overlook the Old Town, Lokrum and Adriatic, with Banje Beach and Ploce Gate below. It is the smart choice for views and higher-end stays; steep slopes and expensive sea-view rooms are the price.

Lapad

Lapad Bay combines a pedestrian seafront, beaches and residential streets around Setaliste kralja Zvonimira. It works particularly well for families and longer stays; the Old Town is a bus ride away and the resort-facing waterfront can feel less distinctly Dubrovnik.

Gruz

Dubrovnik's working harbour district centres on Gruz Port, the main bus station and a produce market, with ferries leaving for the islands. It gives some of the strongest value and transport links; the trade-off is traffic and far less historic atmosphere.

Babin Kuk

The green northern end of the Lapad peninsula has coastal paths, resort gardens and beaches including Copacabana. It suits families and travellers prioritising swimming and downtime; the distance from the Old Town and resort-heavy character are the compromises.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 11°C5°C 11
Feb 11°C5°C 11
Mar 14°C7°C 11
Apr 17°C10°C 13
May 21°C14°C 10
Jun 26°C18°C 8
Jul 28°C21°C 6
Aug 29°C21°C 6
Sep 24°C18°C 9
Oct 20°C14°C 11
Nov 16°C10°C 14
Dec 12°C6°C 13

What it costs

A typical day in Dubrovnik, per person, in pounds.

£60

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£130

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£300

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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