Destination guide

Edinburgh

Fly into EDI. Aster compares live fares there across economy, premium economy, business and first - scored against your budget, sleep and legroom, with a straight answer on whether the upgrade is worth it.

Edinburgh is a dramatic city, built on extinct volcanoes and ridges. A medieval old town and a Georgian new town face each other across a deep valley, with a castle on the rock above.

It is easy to see on foot, full of history and storytelling, and very hilly. The weather can change within the hour, so be ready for it.

How many days: 3

Three days lets you cover the castle, the old town, a hill and a museum without rushing. Two is enough for a quick trip.

If you have time, use the city as a base for a day trip to the Highlands, St Andrews or the Scottish Borders by train or tour.

What to do in Edinburgh

Visit Edinburgh Castle
The castle sits on a volcanic rock above the city and holds the Scottish crown jewels. Book a timed ticket in advance.
Walk the Royal Mile
The main street of the old town runs from the castle to the royal palace. Step into the closes, the narrow lanes, that run off it.
Climb Arthur's Seat
An extinct volcano in the middle of the city with views over the whole area. It takes an hour or so to the top, and the path is steep in places.
Visit the National Museum of Scotland
A large free museum covering history, science and art. A good option on a wet day.
See Calton Hill
A short climb up gives one of the best views of the skyline, especially at sunset. Easy to reach from the city centre.
Wander Victoria Street and Grassmarket
A curved colourful street and a historic square, with independent shops and pubs.
Walk the Water of Leith
A riverside path through the city to the old port of Leith. A calm walk with good places to eat at the end.
Visit the Scottish National Gallery
A free gallery with works from the Renaissance to the late nineteenth century. Its garden setting makes it an easy stop.
Explore Dean Village
A quiet old milling village in a wooded valley, just minutes from the busy centre. A nice walk on a sunny day.

What to eat and drink

Haggis, neeps and tatties
Scotland's national dish, a savoury pudding served with mashed swede and potato. Many places do a vegetarian version too.
Scottish seafood
Salmon, smoked fish, mussels and langoustines are all common. Look for places that name their sources.
Whisky
Scotland is the home of whisky, and bars and shops offer tastings. Ask for a recommendation by region.
Cullen skink
A thick soup of smoked haddock, potato and onion. A warming starter.
Scottish breakfast
A cooked breakfast with eggs, bacon, sausage, black pudding and tattie scones. Plan a lighter day after it.
Afternoon tea and bakeries
Scottish baking includes shortbread, tablet and scones. Tea rooms are common, and a good way to wait out a shower.

Getting around

The city centre is compact, but hilly and cobbled. Walking is the best way to see it.

Buses and trams cover the wider area, and the tram runs from the airport to the centre. Contactless payment works on most routes.

Trains from Waverley station reach Glasgow, London and the Highlands.

Good to know

  • The weather is changeable at any time of year. Bring a waterproof, layers and sturdy shoes.
  • The city is very busy in August during the festivals. Accommodation books out and prices rise, so book early.
  • Many attractions have timed entry. Book ahead for the castle in particular.
  • Evenings are long in summer and very short in winter. Plan outdoor activities accordingly.
  • Scotland uses the pound sterling, and cards and contactless payments are accepted almost everywhere.
  • Some attractions have steps and cobbles. If mobility is a concern, check the official sites in advance.

Where to stay in Edinburgh

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Old Town

The medieval spine from the Castle to Holyrood -- the Royal Mile, closes, and layers of history stacked vertically. You are inside the postcard, with the crowds and festival-season prices to match.

New Town

Georgian elegance in grid form -- grand crescents, Princes Street shopping, and smart restaurants a short walk from the Old Town across the gardens. The polished all-rounder, and the tram runs straight to the airport.

Stockbridge

A village inside the city -- the Water of Leith, a Sunday market, and independent shops on a handsome high street. Quiet, pretty, and local, ten minutes' walk downhill from the New Town.

Leith

The old port turned food quarter -- The Shore's waterfront restaurants, a proud independent streak, and the tram now running straight through. Edinburgh's most interesting eating, a ride away from the castle crowds.

West End

Victorian crescents between the New Town and Haymarket -- theatres, galleries, and a proper neighbourhood feel with the tram at the door. A calm, convenient base that quietly does everything well.

Southside

The university quarter by the Meadows -- students, cheap eats, and the city's big green lung. Lively in term time, genuinely good value, and an easy walk or bus up to the Royal Mile.

What it costs

A typical day in Edinburgh, per person, in pounds.

£65

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£145

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£310

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

Ready when you are

Tell Aster when you're thinking of going. It does the comparing; you keep the final word.