Destination guide

Geneva

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Geneva sits at the end of its lake, with the Alps and the Jura mountains in view. It is a calm, wealthy and international city, home to many global organisations, with parks, lakeside promenades and a pleasant old town.

It is expensive, so many visitors use it as a base for the Alps and the lake, and for day trips to France.

How many days: 2

Two days is enough for the old town, the lake and a museum. A third day gives time for a boat trip or the mountains.

A long weekend works well, with a day trip to the mountains or the lakeside towns.

What to do in Geneva

Walk along the lake
A promenade runs along the water, with parks, swimming spots and views of the jet d'eau fountain.
See the Jet d'Eau
A giant fountain that sends water high into the air. It is the symbol of the city.
Explore the old town
Cobbled streets, the cathedral and its tower, and small squares. Climb the tower for views.
Visit the United Nations area
The grounds and visitor centre explain the work of international organisations. Check the official site for visit rules.
Take a lake boat
Boats cross the lake and call at lakeside towns and vineyards.
See the Reformation Wall
A long monument in a park, honouring leading figures of the Protestant Reformation.
Swim in the lake
Public lake baths and beaches are popular in summer. Check the conditions.
Take a day trip to the mountains
Cable cars and trains reach alpine viewpoints. Mont Salève, just across the border, is a favourite.
Visit a watch museum or workshop
Geneva is a centre of Swiss watchmaking. A museum explains the craft, and shops show modern examples.
Walk in the Bastions park
A park next to the old town with a giant chess set and the university. A relaxed stop.
Visit a chocolate or cheese tasting
Small shops offer tastings of local specialities. A good way to try the best of Switzerland.
Walk to the lakeside villages
Small villages around the lake have vineyards, cafes and swimming spots. Reach them by boat or train.
Visit a large park by the lake
Parc des Eaux-Vives and Parc La Grange have rose gardens and lawns, and lake views. A calm break.

What to eat and drink

Cheese fondue
Melted cheese with bread, a Swiss classic best eaten in cooler months.
Raclette
Melted cheese scraped over potatoes and pickles.
Longeole sausage
A local sausage with a distinctive spiced flavour.
Swiss chocolate
A local speciality, sold in shops and chocolatiers.
Local wines
The Geneva region produces good white wines. Try them in a local cellar.
Perch fillets from the lake
Fried lake fish, served with chips and salad.
Cervelas sausage
A simple grilled sausage, served with mustard and bread.
Tarte au vin cuit
A sweet tart made from reduced grape juice, a local speciality.
Fondue in a traditional restaurant
Cosy rooms in the old town serve fondue in the cooler months. Book ahead.

Getting around

Public transport is efficient, and hotels often provide a free pass for guests. Check when you check in.

The centre is compact and walkable.

Boats are part of the public network on the lake.

Good to know

  • Switzerland is very expensive. Cooking or picnicking can save money.
  • Shops close early and are often shut on Sundays. Plan ahead.
  • Tap water is excellent and free from public fountains.
  • Carry some ID, as the border with France is close.
  • Entry rules vary by nationality, so check the official site.
  • The city is quiet at night and on Sundays, so plan evening meals ahead.
  • French is the main language, and English is widely spoken.
  • Geneva airport is very close to the centre, and trains take only minutes.
  • Look for the free public transport card offered at most places to stay, and for lake swimming areas in summer.

Where to stay in Geneva

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Old Town

Cobbled lanes, St Peter's Cathedral, Maison Tavel and Place du Bourg-de-Four define Geneva's historic heart above the lake. It suits first-time visitors and romantic breaks; steep streets, premium hotel prices and limited nightlife are the main compromises.

Paquis

Multicultural restaurants, late bars and Bains des Paquis fill the compact district between Cornavin station and Lake Geneva. It suits nightlife, food and practical short stays; some streets are noisy and gritty after dark and tranquillity is limited.

Eaux-Vives

Lakefront parks, Eaux-Vives Beach and views towards the Jet d'Eau combine with fashionable restaurants and residential streets. It suits couples and families wanting central Geneva with room to relax; hotels are expensive and major business institutions sit across town.

Carouge

Italianate squares, artisan workshops, boutiques and cafe terraces give this former Sardinian town a distinct village-like atmosphere south of central Geneva. It suits longer and romantic stays; landmark sightseeing and airport access are less immediate than from the centre.

Nations

The UN, Red Cross Museum and major international organisations cluster around leafy parks north of the centre. It is Geneva's strongest base for diplomatic and NGO business; evenings are quiet, leisure nightlife is sparse and the historic centre is not on the doorstep.

Plainpalais & Quartier des Bains

Flea markets, MAMCO, contemporary galleries, student life and busy bars give this district a younger cultural edge. It suits nightlife, art and better-value city breaks; it has little lakefront appeal and can be noisy around Plainpalais after dark.

What it costs

A typical day in Geneva, per person, in pounds.

£90

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£150

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£178

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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