Destination guide

Goa

Fly into GOI. Aster compares live fares there across economy, premium economy, business and first - scored against your budget, sleep and legroom, with a straight answer on whether the upgrade is worth it.

Goa is a small coastal state on India's west coast, known for its beaches, its Portuguese colonial heritage and a relaxed pace of life. The north has lively beaches and nightlife, and the south is calmer, with quiet bays and palm-fringed sands.

Old churches, spice plantations and markets add culture to the beach days.

How many days: 6

Six days allows time for both the north and the south, with plenty of beach time. A long weekend suits one area.

Choose a base on the coast that matches your mood, and use taxis or scooters to explore.

What to do in Goa

Relax on the beaches
North Goa has busy beaches with shacks and music. South Goa has quieter, wider beaches.
Explore Old Goa
A cluster of Portuguese-era churches and a cathedral, many of them listed as World Heritage sites.
Walk through Panjim's Latin Quarter
Pastel-coloured houses, small chapels and cafes. A calm city to walk.
Visit a spice plantation
Guided tours explain how spices grow, and finish with a local lunch.
Browse a flea or night market
Stalls sell clothes, jewellery and crafts. Bargain politely.
See a fort
Old Portuguese forts sit on headlands, with sea views and sunsets.
Take a river cruise
Boats on the Mandovi river offer sunset trips with music.
Try yoga or a wellness retreat
Many places offer drop-in classes, particularly in the north.
Take a dolphin or sunrise boat trip
Small boats take visitors out at dawn, and dolphins are often seen close to shore.
Visit a waterfall in the hills
Dudhsagar is a tall waterfall inland, reached by jeep. Best after the monsoon.
Visit a village market
Weekly markets sell fruit, spices and handicrafts. Go early, and bring small notes.
Cycle through the countryside
Quiet lanes in the south link villages, paddy fields and beaches.
Visit a Hindu temple in the hills
Several temples sit among palm groves, with distinctive lamp towers. Dress modestly, and remove your shoes.
Sit at a beach shack for sunset
A cold drink and fresh seafood on the sand as the sun goes down is a Goan routine. Go early for a good table.

What to eat and drink

Goan fish curry and rice
A coconut and tamarind curry, the local staple.
Vindaloo
A spicy pork curry of Portuguese origin, far from the British takeaway version.
Fresh seafood at a beach shack
Grilled fish, prawns and calamari are served on the sand.
Bebinca
A layered, sweet pudding made with coconut milk and eggs.
Feni
A local spirit made from cashew or coconut. Try it with a mixer.
Poi bread
A local bread, eaten with curries or a filling.
Prawn balchao
Prawns in a tangy chilli pickle sauce, a Goan favourite.
Coconut water
Sold on beaches and roadsides, fresh and cold.
Local bakery bread and cakes
Portuguese influence shows in the bakeries, with soft rolls and layered cakes.
Sorpotel
A rich, tangy pork dish with spices and vinegar, served at festivals and family meals.

Getting around

Taxis are expensive and fixed by local unions. Ride-hailing is limited. Hiring a scooter is common, but only if you are experienced and wear a helmet.

Local buses are cheap but slow.

Motorbike taxis are common for short trips.

Good to know

  • The best time is the dry season, and monsoon months are wet with rough seas.
  • Swim only where lifeguards are on duty, as currents can be strong.
  • Respect local dress customs away from the beach.
  • Agree prices before taxi rides or purchases.
  • Check visa rules and the current official travel advice before you go.
  • Beach shacks are open in the dry season only, and many close during the monsoon.
  • Keep valuables safe, and avoid walking on beaches alone late at night.
  • Plan your base around the part of the coast you like, because travel between north and south takes time.
  • Water sports are available on busy beaches. Choose operators with safety equipment, and check conditions.

Where to stay in Goa

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Panjim

Panjim is Goa's compact state capital, known for colourful Portuguese-era streets, riverside views, churches and excellent local restaurants. It is ideal for culture and food but is not a conventional beach-resort base.

Candolim

Candolim is a popular North Goa beach area with a long sandy shoreline, plenty of restaurants and easy access to neighbouring Calangute and Sinquerim. It balances nightlife and resort convenience without being quite as hectic as Goa's busiest party zones.

Anjuna

Anjuna is one of Goa's best-known nightlife and alternative-travel areas, combining beach clubs, markets, restaurants and a long-established backpacker scene. It suits younger travellers and groups, but music, traffic and crowds make it less suitable for quiet family holidays.

Morjim

Morjim offers a broad sandy beach and a slower, more relaxed atmosphere than central North Goa while still providing beach clubs, cafés and boutique accommodation. It is popular with couples and longer-stay visitors, although transfers are longer and nightlife is relatively subdued.

Palolem

Palolem in South Goa is built around a scenic crescent beach lined with restaurants, guesthouses and small resorts. It is one of Goa's strongest choices for laid-back beach holidays and couples, though it sits far from North Goa's nightlife and major transport hubs.

Benaulim

Benaulim is a quieter South Goa beach area with a broad shoreline, relaxed resorts and a strong selection of seafood restaurants. It is well suited to couples and families wanting a peaceful holiday, but offers little nightlife compared with North Goa.

What it costs

A typical day in Goa, per person, in pounds.

£10

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£25

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£60

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

Ready when you are

Tell Aster when you're thinking of going. It does the comparing; you keep the final word.