Destination guide

Granada

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Granada sits below the snow-capped Sierra Nevada in southern Spain, and is dominated by the Alhambra, one of the most beautiful palace complexes in the world. The city has Moorish, Jewish and Christian layers, and a lively student population.

Its tapas culture is generous, with a free snack arriving with every drink. It is a small city with a very big reputation.

How many days: 2

Two days is enough for the Alhambra, the old quarters and an evening of tapas. A third day lets you head into the mountains.

Tickets for the Alhambra sell out in busy periods. Book on the official site as soon as you know your dates.

What to do in Granada

Visit the Alhambra
A palace and fortress complex with courtyards, gardens and decorated halls. Book a timed ticket well in advance on the official site.
See the Generalife gardens
The summer palace gardens, with fountains and flowering terraces. They are part of the Alhambra ticket.
Wander the Albaicín
A hillside Moorish district of whitewashed houses and narrow lanes. Its viewpoints look across to the Alhambra.
Watch the sunset from a viewpoint
The Mirador de San Nicolás is a famous spot for sunset, and gets crowded. Try the quieter viewpoints nearby.
See the Cathedral and Royal Chapel
A grand Renaissance cathedral with the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella next door. Check visiting details on the official site.
Visit the Sacromonte
A hillside area known for cave houses and flamenco. Choose a show with a good reputation.
Take a day trip to the Alpujarras
Whitewashed villages in the mountains to the south, reachable by bus or tour.
Visit the Corral del Carbón
A rare surviving Moorish merchant inn in the centre, with a courtyard. A quick free stop.
Browse the Alcaicería
A reconstructed old silk market, now a lane of souvenir shops. Take it slowly and compare before buying.
Take a flamenco class or a show in a small venue
Flamenco is part of the city's identity, and small venues feel more genuine than big shows. Ask locals for suggestions and book ahead.
Walk the Carrera del Darro
A pretty old street along a small river below the Alhambra, lined with bridges, churches and cafes. Good for an easy afternoon walk.

What to eat and drink

Free tapas
In Granada, a tapa comes free with each drink. Order a drink and see what arrives.
Jamón and cured meats
Local ham from the mountain village of Trevélez is famous across Spain.
Tortilla del Sacromonte
A local omelette with offal, a regional speciality. Adventurous eaters might try it.
Moorish-style sweets and teas
Teahouses in the Albaicín serve mint tea and pastries in an Arabic style.
Local wines
The region produces fresh, light wines. Ask for a local recommendation.
Piononos
Small sweet pastries soaked in syrup and topped with cream, from the nearby town of Santa Fe. A local sweet.

Getting around

The historic centre is compact, but the Albaicín and the Alhambra are on steep hills. Wear comfortable shoes.

Small buses climb the hills, and are a useful alternative to long uphill walks.

Trains and buses connect Granada with Seville, Malaga and Madrid.

Good to know

  • Summers are very hot, and winters can be cold, with snow on the mountains. Spring and autumn are best.
  • Check Alhambra entry rules, including time slots and ID requirements, on the official site.
  • Be wary of people offering sprigs of rosemary and then asking for money. Politely decline.
  • Many small places close in the afternoon. Plan accordingly.
  • The Alhambra needs a good half day, and has strict timed entry for the palaces. Late arrivals may be refused, so allow extra time.
  • Granada is also a ski base in winter, as the Sierra Nevada is under an hour away.
  • The city is lively late at night, particularly at weekends. Dinner is eaten late, and many bars stay open into the early hours.

Where to stay in Granada

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Centro

Granada's practical heart surrounds the Cathedral, Royal Chapel and Gran Vía, with shops, tapas bars and transport in every direction. It is the easiest first-time base; busy commercial streets and heavier visitor traffic mean less neighbourhood atmosphere.

Albaicín

Whitewashed lanes climb towards Mirador de San Nicolás, with cármenes, tea houses and views straight across to the Alhambra. It is Granada's strongest romantic base; steep cobbles, awkward luggage access and heavy daytime visitor traffic are the price.

Realejo

The former Jewish quarter between Centro and the Alhambra mixes tapas bars, street art and older lanes around Campo del Príncipe and Calle Molinos. It suits couples and nightlife without sacrificing sightseeing access; uphill streets and increasing popularity temper the value.

Sacromonte

Cave houses and flamenco venues stretch along the hillside above the Darro, with broad views towards the Alhambra and Sierra Nevada. It suits travellers wanting a distinctive, quieter stay; steep paths, limited transport and sparse everyday services make it an impractical universal base.

Zaidín

South of the historic centre, Zaidín is a lived-in residential district near the Science Park and Palacio de Congresos, with neighbourhood bars and everyday prices. It offers strong value and space for families; the Alhambra and old quarters require a bus, metro or longer walk.

Camino de Ronda

A broad modern corridor west of the old centre, Camino de Ronda mixes apartments, shops, student life and excellent metro connections. It is useful for budget-conscious longer stays; traffic, modern architecture and distance from Granada's atmospheric hill quarters are the trade-offs.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 12°C2°C 8
Feb 13°C3°C 8
Mar 17°C5°C 9
Apr 19°C8°C 9
May 23°C11°C 9
Jun 29°C16°C 5
Jul 33°C20°C 2
Aug 33°C20°C 4
Sep 28°C16°C 6
Oct 22°C11°C 7
Nov 16°C6°C 8
Dec 13°C3°C 8

What it costs

A typical day in Granada, per person, in pounds.

£47

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£71

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£88

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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