Destination guide

Hong Kong

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Hong Kong packs towering skyscrapers, steep green hills, old temples and a famous harbour into a small space. It is fast, dense and efficient, with some of the best food in the world and surprisingly easy access to beaches and hiking trails.

Its mix of Chinese and British influences gives it a character that is unlike any other city.

How many days: 4

Four days covers the harbour, the Peak, the markets, a temple or two and a day on an outlying island. Three is enough for the highlights.

Spend the evenings by the water or in the food districts, and use one day for a hike or an island.

What to do in Hong Kong

Ride the Star Ferry across Victoria Harbour
An old, cheap, and scenic crossing. Go at dusk to see the lights.
Go up Victoria Peak
The tram or a bus takes you to a lookout over the skyline and harbour. Clear evenings are best.
Walk the Mid-Levels escalator and nearby streets
A long covered escalator links neighbourhoods, with bars, cafes and street art along the way.
Visit a temple
Man Mo Temple on Hong Kong Island is filled with incense coils. A good place to see local traditions.
Browse a night market
The markets in Kowloon sell clothes, gadgets and snacks. Bargaining is common.
See the Big Buddha on Lantau
A large bronze statue reached by cable car or bus. Allow half a day with the nearby monastery.
Hike a country trail
Much of Hong Kong is green hills, with marked trails and fine views. Go early in summer, as it gets hot.
Take a ferry to an outlying island
Cheung Chau and Lamma have seafood restaurants, quiet lanes and beaches.
Watch the harbour light show
A nightly display of lights on the skyline can be seen from the Kowloon waterfront. Arrive early for a good view.
Visit a traditional tea house
Tea houses serve fine teas and light snacks. A quiet pause in a busy city.
Ride the Peak Tram down
The steep tram is a classic ride. Go down by tram and up by bus, or the reverse, to avoid queues.

What to eat and drink

Dim sum
Bite-sized steamed and fried dishes, served with tea. Go with a group to try more.
Wonton noodles
Thin noodles in broth, with shrimp dumplings. A classic local lunch.
Roast goose and roast pork
Crisp-skinned meat served over rice, from shops with the meat hanging in the window.
Egg tarts
A local pastry with flaky or shortcrust pastry and a smooth custard.
Milk tea
A strong, creamy tea served in local cafes known as cha chaan teng.
Seafood on an outlying island
Pick the fish from a tank and have it cooked to order.
Congee
A smooth rice porridge, served with toppings. A comforting breakfast.
Street snacks
Fish balls, egg waffles and skewers are sold from stalls across the city.

Getting around

The MTR metro is clean, fast and easy to use, and covers most of the city. Contactless cards and phones can be used on it.

Ferries, trams and buses fill the gaps, and the double-decker tram on Hong Kong Island is a classic.

Taxis are plentiful, and the colour shows the area they serve.

Good to know

  • Summers are hot and humid, with a typhoon season. Check the forecast, and carry an umbrella.
  • Air conditioning is strong indoors, so a light layer helps.
  • Stand on the right on escalators, and let people pass on the left.
  • Many restaurants are small and shared, and tables can be busy. Be patient and flexible.
  • Entry rules vary by nationality, so check the official government site before you travel.
  • The city is very dense, and walkways link many buildings above street level. Maps on your phone help you find them.
  • Most places take cards, but small stalls may only take cash.

Where to stay in Hong Kong

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Central

Hong Kong's financial and commercial core, packed with skyscrapers, rooftop bars, luxury shopping and easy access to Victoria Peak and the Mid-Levels. It suits first-time visitors who want excellent transport and nightlife, but prices are high and the atmosphere is more businesslike than relaxed.

Tsim Sha Tsui

Tsim Sha Tsui sits on the Kowloon waterfront opposite Hong Kong Island, with the Avenue of Stars, museums, harbour views and enormous shopping options. It is excellent for sightseeing and first visits, although the busiest streets can feel crowded and intensely commercial.

Causeway Bay

Causeway Bay is one of Hong Kong's busiest shopping and dining districts, close to Victoria Park and packed with malls, restaurants and late-night activity. It is ideal for travellers who want energy and convenience, but it is rarely peaceful.

Wan Chai

Wan Chai mixes offices, markets, heritage buildings, restaurants and a long-established nightlife scene between Central and Causeway Bay. It works well for business travellers and visitors wanting a central base at slightly better value, although parts of the district can feel hectic after dark.

Sheung Wan

Sheung Wan blends traditional dried-goods streets and temples with independent cafés, cocktail bars and galleries just west of Central. It offers a more characterful and slightly calmer stay while remaining walkable to major sights, though it has fewer large hotels and shopping centres.

Mong Kok

Mong Kok delivers dense street markets, neon-lit shopping streets and an energetic slice of everyday Kowloon around Ladies' Market and Nathan Road. It offers strong value and excellent transport, but crowds, noise and limited open space make it less suitable for travellers seeking tranquillity.

What it costs

A typical day in Hong Kong, per person, in pounds.

£48

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£116

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

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