Istanbul

How many days: 4

Four days covers the old city, the Bosphorus and the Asian side without rushing. Three works if you stay focused on the historic peninsula.

The old city alone can fill two days, because the big sights are close together but each takes time. Keep a half day free for the ferry and the neighbourhoods on the other side of the water.

What to do in Istanbul

See the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque

The two landmarks face each other across a small park. Both are active places of worship, so dress modestly and check visiting rules on the official sites.

Explore the Topkapi Palace

The former home of the Ottoman sultans, set on a headland above the water. Give it a good half day, and note that parts of it need separate entry.

Ride a ferry

Public ferries cross the Bosphorus all day and are one of the best-value views in the city. Take one to the Asian side for lunch and come back at sunset.

Wander the Grand Bazaar

A huge covered market of lanes and courtyards. Browse slowly, compare before buying, and bargaining is expected for most goods.

Visit the Basilica Cistern

A vast underground Byzantine water store with rows of columns and low light. It is cool, quiet and a good break from the heat.

Walk through Balat and Fener

Hillside neighbourhoods on the Golden Horn with colourful houses, old churches and small cafes. A good place to wander without a plan.

Cross the Galata Bridge

Fishermen line the rails and restaurants sit underneath. The walk gives you views of the old city and the Galata Tower beyond.

What to eat and drink

Turkish breakfast

A spread of cheeses, olives, tomatoes, eggs, honey and bread, with endless tea. Make it a long, slow meal.

Simit

A ring of bread covered in sesame seeds, sold from street carts all day. The easiest cheap snack in the city.

Kebabs and pide

Grilled meats, and a boat-shaped flatbread with toppings baked in a stone oven. Look for places full of locals.

Baklava and Turkish delight

Layered pastry with nuts and syrup, and soft sweets in many flavours. Buy a small amount from a shop that makes its own.

Tea and Turkish coffee

Tea comes in small tulip-shaped glasses and is offered everywhere. Turkish coffee is strong, served with the grounds, and meant to be sipped slowly.

Fish by the water

Grilled fish and meze are a classic meal by the Bosphorus. Look at the menu carefully and ask about the fish of the day.

Getting around

The metro, trams and ferries cover most of what visitors need, and one reloadable travel card works on all of them. The old city is best walked, though it is hilly.

Taxis are common but make sure the meter is running. Ride-hailing apps are an alternative if you want a fixed route before you set off.

Ferries are not just transport, they are part of the experience. The same ticket system works for boats as for trams.

Good to know

• Mosques close to visitors during prayer times and you will need to cover shoulders and legs. Women are usually asked to cover their hair. Check each site's rules before you go.
• Be wary of friendly strangers offering to take you to a shop or bar, and of anyone who insists on a shoe shine. Politely decline and move on.
• The city is hilly and busy, so comfortable shoes matter. Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons, while summer is hot and crowded.
• Check the current entry rules for your nationality before you travel. Rules change, so rely on the official government site.