Destination guide

Jaipur

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Jaipur is the pink city of Rajasthan, a walled capital of palaces, forts and busy bazaars. It forms one corner of India's Golden Triangle with Delhi and Agra, and it is the easiest of the three places to enjoy at a gentle pace.

Block printing, jewellery, gemstones and hand-woven textiles are the local crafts, and the old city is a good place to watch them being made.

How many days: 3

Three days covers the main forts and palaces, the old city bazaars and a craft workshop. Two is enough if you are short of time.

Visit the hilltop forts early in the morning, before the heat and the crowds arrive.

What to do in Jaipur

Visit Amber Fort
A hilltop fortress with courtyards, mirrored halls and wide views over the valley. Go early, and walk up the ramp if you can.
See the City Palace
Part royal residence and part museum, with courtyards, costumes and weapons. A good way to understand the city's history.
Look at the Hawa Mahal
The famous honeycomb facade, built so royal women could watch street life unseen. Best photographed from a cafe opposite in the morning light.
Explore the Jantar Mantar
An observatory of huge stone instruments, still able to tell the time and track the stars. Hire a guide to understand how they work.
Walk through the old city bazaars
Pink-washed streets sell textiles, jewellery, shoes and spices. Bargaining is expected, and a polite smile helps.
Watch block printing
Villages near the city print cloth by hand with carved wooden blocks. A workshop visit is a good way to see the process.
See Nahargarh Fort at sunset
A fort on the ridge above the city, with a view across the rooftops. A quiet place to end the day.
Take a cooking class
Local hosts teach classic Rajasthani dishes, and a class is a good way to learn about the spices.
Visit a gem and jewellery workshop
Jaipur is a centre for cutting and setting gemstones. Choose a reputable workshop, and never feel pressured to buy.
Take a sunrise walk to a viewpoint
The hills around the city give quiet morning views, with monkeys and temples along the way.
See the Albert Hall Museum
A grand building with a varied collection of crafts and art. Pretty at night, when it is lit.

What to eat and drink

Dal baati churma
Baked wheat balls with lentils and a sweet crumbled dessert. The classic Rajasthani meal.
Laal maas
A fiery mutton curry coloured by local chillies. Ask for the heat level you can handle.
Pyaaz kachori
A crisp pastry filled with spiced onion, a popular morning snack.
Lassi
A thick, cooling yoghurt drink served in clay cups.
Ghewar
A honeycomb-shaped sweet, popular at festivals.
Vegetarian thali
A plate of small dishes, with several vegetables, breads and sweets.
Rajasthani sweets
Sweets such as mawa kachori and malpua are sold in old-city shops.
Masala chai
Spiced milk tea, sold at roadside stalls.

Getting around

Ride-hailing apps and auto-rickshaws are the easiest way around, and many visitors hire a driver for the day. Agree the price before you set off.

The old city is best seen on foot, but traffic is busy, so stay alert.

Trains and road links run to Delhi and Agra, and the trip takes several hours.

Good to know

  • Summers are very hot, so plan outdoor sights for the early morning. The cooler months are the most comfortable.
  • Dress modestly, and cover shoulders and knees at temples and in the old city.
  • Be wary of touts, and use official ticket counters at the forts.
  • Drink bottled or filtered water, and eat where the food is busy.
  • Check visa rules and the current official travel advice before you go.
  • Combine Jaipur with Delhi and Agra as a loop. Allow time for the long road journeys between them.
  • Fixed-price government emporiums are a safer way to learn what crafts should cost.

Where to stay in Jaipur

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Pink City

Jaipur's historic Pink City contains the City Palace, Hawa Mahal, bazaars and some of the destination's most important architectural sights. It is unmatched for sightseeing and atmosphere, but traffic, crowds and noise can be intense.

C-Scheme

C-Scheme is an affluent central neighbourhood with cafés, restaurants, boutiques and some of Jaipur's better upscale hotels. It offers a comfortable and comparatively calm base while remaining close to the old city, making it strong for couples and business travellers.

Bani Park

Bani Park is a quieter residential district known for heritage hotels, guesthouses and tree-lined streets close to Jaipur Junction. It offers strong value and a calmer atmosphere than the old city, though major sights generally require short drives.

Civil Lines

Civil Lines is a leafy, upscale residential area with heritage properties, broad streets and a quieter atmosphere west of central Jaipur. It suits couples and travellers seeking a more refined stay, though nightlife and walkable sightseeing are limited.

Malviya Nagar

Malviya Nagar is a modern southern district close to Jaipur Airport, with malls, restaurants and relatively affordable hotels. It is practical for business and short stays, but far less atmospheric than central Jaipur.

Amer

Amer lies north of central Jaipur beside the spectacular Amber Fort and surrounding hills, with several heritage and luxury properties nearby. It offers scenery, history and tranquillity, but is removed from the city's main dining and nightlife areas.

What it costs

A typical day in Jaipur, per person, in pounds.

£6

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£15

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£28

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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