Destination guide

Krakow

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Krakow is the old royal capital of Poland, and one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe. A huge main square, a hilltop castle and a historic Jewish quarter sit within a short walk of each other.

It is friendly, affordable and easy to navigate. The city also serves as the base for visits to two of the most important and sobering sites in Europe.

How many days: 3

Three days covers the old town, the castle and the Jewish quarter at an easy pace. Add a day for a visit to the memorial and museum at Auschwitz-Birkenau.

A visit there needs a timed pass booked ahead on the official site. Give it a full, quiet day and do not schedule much else.

What to do in Krakow

Walk the Main Market Square
One of the largest medieval squares in Europe, with a cloth hall, a basilica and cafes. A trumpet call plays from the church tower on the hour.
Visit Wawel Castle
The hilltop royal castle and cathedral overlook the river. Entry is split between several sections, so pick what you want to see.
Explore Kazimierz
The old Jewish quarter is now full of synagogues, bars and cafes. It is lively in the evening and reflects the city's complicated history.
Walk along the Vistula
A riverside path runs below the castle and is good for a relaxed walk or a bike ride.
Visit Auschwitz-Birkenau
The memorial and museum is a serious and moving visit. Book ahead through the official site, and allow plenty of time.
See the Planty park
A ring of gardens around the old town, laid out where the walls once stood. A pleasant walk between sights.
Take a day trip to the salt mine
The Wieliczka salt mine, just outside the city, has underground chapels carved from salt. It is a popular half-day trip, and tickets should be booked ahead.
Visit Oskar Schindler's Factory
The former factory in the Podgórze district is now a museum about the city during the Second World War. A moving and well-made exhibition.

What to eat and drink

Pierogi
Filled dumplings, with fillings from cheese and potato to meat or fruit. The most famous Polish dish.
Zapiekanka
A long open sandwich of toasted baguette with mushrooms and cheese. A street-food favourite in Kazimierz.
Obwarzanek
A ring-shaped bread, sold from blue street carts. A Krakow speciality.
Żurek
A sour rye soup, often served in a bread bowl. Warming and typical of Polish home cooking.
Vodka and local beer
Poland is known for its vodka, and flavoured versions are common. Local craft beer is also easy to find.
Cafes and cake
Krakow has a lively cafe culture, with traditional cake shops and modern coffee bars. A good way to rest between sights.

Getting around

The old town is compact and walkable. Trams and buses cover the wider city, and tickets can be bought on the vehicle or from machines.

Trains connect Krakow with Warsaw and other major Polish cities. Check timetables on the official rail site.

Taxis and ride-hailing apps are cheap by Western European standards.

Good to know

  • The currency is the złoty, not the euro. Cards are widely accepted, but carry a little cash for small places.
  • Winters are cold and snowy, and summers are warm. Spring and early autumn are the most comfortable.
  • Many museums close one day a week and have free entry on others. Check the official sites before you go.
  • Prices are generally lower than in Western Europe, which makes it good value for a city break.
  • Tap water is safe to drink and public transport is clean and reliable, which makes the city easy for first-time visitors.
  • The historic centre is wonderful at night, but watch for the stag and hen groups around the main square. The quieter streets of Kazimierz are an alternative.

Where to stay in Krakow

5 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Old Town (Stare Miasto)

Inside the Planty ring -- the largest medieval square in Europe, Wawel at its foot, and cellar bars under every townhouse. Unbeatable sightseeing density at Central European prices.

Kazimierz

The old Jewish quarter -- synagogues, vintage shops, and courtyard bars around Plac Nowy that stay open all night. Krakow's soulful, scruffy, unmissable second centre.

Podgorze

Across the river -- the ghetto memorial, Schindler's Factory, and the cafe-and-gallery scene of Zablocie's old warehouses. Quieter, cheaper, and the most moving part of the city's history.

Kleparz

The market district north of the Barbican -- Stary Kleparz food hall, art-nouveau facades, and business hotels around the station. Practical and well connected, a ten-minute walk from the square.

Debniki & Salwator

The green west bank under Wawel's far side -- riverside cycle paths, monasteries, and villa-lined streets. Krakow's calm corner, fifteen minutes by tram from the centre.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 1°C-5°C 11
Feb 3°C-4°C 11
Mar 8°C-1°C 12
Apr 14°C4°C 11
May 19°C9°C 14
Jun 22°C12°C 14
Jul 24°C15°C 14
Aug 24°C14°C 11
Sep 19°C10°C 10
Oct 13°C5°C 10
Nov 7°C1°C 10
Dec 2°C-3°C 10

What it costs

A typical day in Krakow, per person, in pounds.

£35

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£86

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£90

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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