Destination guide

Kuala Lumpur

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Kuala Lumpur is Malaysia's capital, a modern city of towering skyscrapers, old colonial buildings and hawker streets. Malay, Chinese and Indian cultures meet here, and the result is some of the best and cheapest food in Southeast Asia.

It is hot and humid all year, so plan your days around air-conditioned stops and evening walks.

How many days: 3

Three days covers the towers, the old quarter, the food and a trip to the caves. Two is enough for a stopover.

Keep the middle of the day for malls and museums, and go out again when it cools.

What to do in Kuala Lumpur

See the Petronas Towers
The twin towers are the city's symbol. The park at their base is a pleasant place to sit, and the towers glow at night.
Climb or ride up a tall tower
The city has more than one observation deck. Go at sunset for the view across the skyline.
Visit the Batu Caves
A huge limestone cave with a Hindu temple, reached by a long staircase. Watch out for the monkeys, and cover your shoulders and knees.
Walk through the old colonial quarter
Historic buildings around Merdeka Square show the city's British past. Small museums add context.
Explore Chinatown and Little India
Street markets, temples and cheap food in two very different neighbourhoods.
Visit a major mosque
The National Mosque and the Jamek mosque welcome visitors outside prayer times. Dress modestly, and robes can often be borrowed.
Walk in the city's lake gardens
A large green park with a bird park, orchid garden and shaded paths. A good break from the heat.
Take a day trip to the hills
Cooler highlands, tea plantations and forest walks are within a few hours of the city.
Browse a night market
Street stalls sell clothes, trinkets and snacks after dark. Come hungry.
Visit the Islamic Arts Museum
A large, calm museum of art and architecture from across the Islamic world. A good air-conditioned stop.
Walk the canopy of a forest reserve
A patch of tropical rainforest sits in the middle of the city, with a canopy walkway. Go in the morning.
Take a food walk through Jalan Alor
A famous street of open-air restaurants lit up at night. Share dishes to try more.

What to eat and drink

Nasi lemak
Coconut rice with sambal, fried fish, egg and peanuts. The national dish, often eaten for breakfast.
Char kway teow
Wok-fried flat noodles with prawns and egg, full of smoky flavour.
Satay
Grilled skewers served with peanut sauce, a classic evening snack.
Roti canai
A flaky flatbread with curry, popular at any time of day.
Hawker stalls
Open-air food courts serve dishes from every culture. Go where the queues are.
Teh tarik
A frothy, sweet 'pulled' milk tea, poured between two cups.
Laksa and curry noodles
Spicy noodle soups that vary by region and by stall.
Cendol
A dessert of shaved ice, coconut milk, green jelly and palm sugar. Perfect in the heat.

Getting around

Ride-hailing apps are cheap and convenient, and are the easiest way to get around. The rail network covers the main areas, but the stations can be a walk from the sights.

Walking between districts is hard in the heat. Use covered walkways where you can.

Taxis should use the meter, and apps avoid the haggling.

Good to know

  • It is hot and humid all year, and afternoon storms are common. Carry an umbrella.
  • Dress modestly at religious sites, and remove your shoes where asked.
  • Tipping is not expected, and a service charge is often included.
  • Drink bottled water, and wear sun cream.
  • Check entry rules, including any digital arrival card, before you travel.
  • The city is a good base for the rest of Malaysia, with flights and trains to many places.
  • Malls are air-conditioned and very busy at weekends.
  • Dress lightly but modestly, and keep a scarf or shawl for mosques and temples.

Where to stay in Kuala Lumpur

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Bukit Bintang

Bukit Bintang is Kuala Lumpur's main shopping, restaurant and nightlife district, centred on Pavilion KL, Jalan Alor and Changkat. It is one of the easiest bases for first-time visitors, although traffic, crowds and late-night noise can be considerable.

KLCC

KLCC surrounds the Petronas Twin Towers and KLCC Park, with luxury hotels, major malls and some of the city's best skyline views. It is polished, convenient and excellent for business or upscale stays, but accommodation and dining tend to cost more than elsewhere in Kuala Lumpur.

Chinatown

Kuala Lumpur's Chinatown combines Petaling Street, temples, heritage shophouses, cafés and the nearby Central Market. It is particularly attractive to budget-conscious visitors who value character and food, although some streets are scruffier and less polished than KLCC or Bukit Bintang.

Bangsar

Bangsar is an affluent residential neighbourhood known for cafés, international restaurants, bars and a more neighbourhood-oriented atmosphere. It suits repeat visitors and longer stays wanting less tourist congestion, but it is less convenient for walking to Kuala Lumpur's major landmarks.

Chow Kit

Chow Kit offers traditional markets, excellent local food and a rapidly growing collection of boutique hotels and cafés north of the city centre. It delivers strong value and local character, although the surroundings can feel less polished than Kuala Lumpur's principal tourist districts.

KL Sentral & Brickfields

KL Sentral is Kuala Lumpur's main transport hub, while neighbouring Brickfields adds colourful Little India restaurants, shops and temples. It is especially practical for short stays and airport connections, but lacks the evening atmosphere and visual appeal of Bukit Bintang or KLCC.

What it costs

A typical day in Kuala Lumpur, per person, in pounds.

£23

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£64

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£197

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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