Destination guide

Lima

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Lima is the capital of Peru, a huge city on a desert cliff above the Pacific. It has colonial squares, ancient ruins, fine museums and a world-famous food scene, which many visitors consider the main reason to come.

The sky is grey for much of the year, but the city rewards those who explore beyond the first impression.

How many days: 3

Three days covers the old centre, the coast and the food. Many visitors stay a night or two before flying to Cusco.

Spend the evenings eating, as that is when the city shines.

What to do in Lima

Walk through the historic centre
A colonial plaza with a cathedral and the government palace. A UNESCO site, best seen with a guide.
Visit a museum of Peruvian art or history
Collections of ancient pottery, textiles and gold explain the cultures that came before the Incas.
Walk along the Miraflores cliffs
A clifftop path with parks, cafes and views of the surfers below.
Visit Huaca Pucllana
An adobe pyramid in the middle of a modern district, with guided tours.
Explore Barranco
A bohemian neighbourhood with murals, galleries, bars and a famous bridge.
Watch the sunset on the coast
The Pacific sunsets are beautiful from a cliff path or a beach.
Take a cooking class
Many classes begin with a market visit, then teach a classic dish such as ceviche.
Visit catacombs under a convent
Underground burial chambers lie beneath a colonial church. Quietly fascinating.
Visit a lively food market
Large markets sell fruit, fish and local ingredients you rarely see elsewhere. A good place to learn about Peruvian produce.
Take a paragliding flight over the coast
Tandem flights launch from the Miraflores cliffs. Choose a licensed operator.
Visit the Larco museum
A museum of pre-Columbian art in an old mansion, with a garden cafe.
Take a day trip to the Pachacamac ruins
A large ancient site south of the city, with a museum and views of the sea.
Browse an artisan market
Stalls in Miraflores sell alpaca wool, silver and ceramics. Bargain politely.
Take a bike ride along the coast
A smooth path runs along the cliff top, with several parks on the way.

What to eat and drink

Ceviche
Raw fish marinated in lime juice, with onion, chilli and sweet potato. Peru's national dish, best eaten at lunch.
Lomo saltado
Stir-fried beef with onions, tomatoes and chips, served with rice.
Aji de gallina
Shredded chicken in a creamy, mildly spicy yellow sauce.
Anticuchos
Grilled skewers, often of beef heart, sold from street carts.
Pisco sour
The national cocktail of pisco, lime, egg white and bitters.
Chifa
Chinese-Peruvian food, a local favourite.
Causa
A cold layered potato dish with fish or chicken, a Lima classic.
Picarones
Sweet potato and squash doughnuts with cane syrup, sold from street carts.
Tiradito
Thin slices of raw fish with a spicy sauce, similar to sashimi.
Fresh fruit juices
Look for lucuma, passion fruit and chirimoya.

Getting around

Ride-hailing apps and taxis are the easiest way to get around. Agree the fare before getting into a street taxi.

Miraflores and Barranco are walkable.

The Metropolitano bus runs along the main avenues.

Good to know

  • Lima is grey and damp for much of the year, with a coastal mist. Pack a light jacket.
  • Take care with belongings, and avoid quiet areas at night.
  • Altitude is not an issue in Lima, but it is if you fly on to Cusco. Plan for it.
  • Tipping is common in restaurants.
  • Check entry rules for your nationality.
  • Lunch is the main meal, and many of the best ceviche places close in the afternoon.
  • Peruvian Spanish is the main language, and a few phrases help a lot.
  • Plan your trip to Cusco and Machu Picchu in advance, as tickets are limited.

Where to stay in Lima

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Miraflores

The most established visitor district, combining clifftop parks, hotels, restaurants, shopping and easy access to the Pacific coast. It is exceptionally practical for a first visit, though prices and tourist traffic are higher than in less visitor-oriented districts.

Barranco

A compact arts and nightlife district with galleries, colourful streets, bars and acclaimed restaurants close to the coast. It is especially good for couples and evening atmosphere, but offers fewer large hotels and is farther from LIM.

San Isidro

An affluent residential and financial district with high-end hotels, parks and some of Lima's best-known restaurants. It suits business travellers and visitors wanting quiet comfort, but has less street-level tourist activity than Miraflores or Barranco.

Centro Histórico

The colonial core places Plaza Mayor, churches and major historic buildings close together. It is excellent for daytime sightseeing and budget-conscious stays, but most leisure visitors prefer the southern districts for dining and evenings.

Pueblo Libre

A quieter historic residential district best known to visitors for the Museo Larco and traditional restaurants. It offers good value and reasonable airport positioning, but is less convenient for Lima's coastal nightlife and restaurant clusters.

Surquillo

A dense local district beside Miraflores known particularly for food markets and neighbourhood restaurants. It offers strong value and easy access to more tourist-oriented districts, but has fewer conventional hotels and visitor attractions of its own.

What it costs

A typical day in Lima, per person, in pounds.

£34

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£66

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£104

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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