Destination guide

Luxor

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Luxor is often called the world's greatest open-air museum. The ancient city of Thebes stood here, and the Nile now divides its great temples on the east bank from the royal tombs on the west bank.

It is smaller and slower than Cairo, though the sellers can be persistent. Early starts and a good guide make a big difference.

How many days: 3

Three days covers the east and west banks at a comfortable pace. Two is enough for the highlights.

Start early. Temples get hot and crowded by mid-morning.

What to do in Luxor

Visit Karnak Temple
A vast complex of temples, towering columns and sacred lakes, built over many centuries. Allow several hours.
See Luxor Temple
A beautiful temple right in the town. It is especially atmospheric when lit at night.
Explore the Valley of the Kings
Royal tombs cut into the desert cliffs, with colourful painted walls. Rules on photography and entry vary, so check on arrival.
See the Temple of Hatshepsut
A dramatic terraced temple built against a cliff, and one of the most striking sights in Egypt.
Visit the Colossi of Memnon
Two giant statues on the west bank, a quick roadside stop.
Take a hot-air balloon at dawn
Balloons drift over the temples and the green fields at sunrise. Book through a reputable operator.
Sail on a felucca
A traditional sailing boat on the Nile is a calm way to watch the sunset.
Visit the tombs of the nobles
Smaller tombs with lively paintings of daily life. Quieter than the Valley of the Kings.
Visit the Luxor Museum
A small, well-lit museum of statues and artefacts from the area's temples and tombs.
Walk along the Avenue of Sphinxes
An ancient ceremonial road once linked Luxor and Karnak temples. Part of it is open to walk.
See the Medinet Habu temple
A huge temple with detailed carvings of battle scenes. Often quieter than other sites.
Take a day trip to Dendera or Abydos
Further temples north of the city are beautifully preserved. Hire a driver.
Wander the souk
The town market sells spices, scarves and alabaster. Bargaining is part of the fun.

What to eat and drink

Egyptian bread and dips
Fresh flatbread served with dips such as baba ghanoush.
Pigeon dishes
Stuffed pigeon is a local speciality in Upper Egypt.
Molokhia
A green leaf stew, served with rice or bread.
Grilled meats
Kebabs and kofta, grilled over charcoal.
Hibiscus drink
A tart, cold red drink called karkadeh, sold across Egypt.
Fresh juices
Sugar cane juice and fruit drinks are sold from street stalls.
Rooftop meals by the Nile
Many restaurants have terraces with river views. A pleasant place at sunset.
Egyptian sweets
Look for basbousa and kunafa in local bakeries.
Fresh dates and figs
Local fruit is sweet and cheap in season.
Egyptian breakfast
Beans, eggs, cheese and flatbread, served with sweet tea.

Getting around

Horse carriages, taxis and local ferries are the usual ways to get around. Agree the price before you go.

Many visitors hire a driver and guide for the west bank, as the sights are spread out.

The east bank is walkable.

Good to know

  • It is extremely hot in summer. Visit between autumn and spring if you can, and start early.
  • Dress modestly, and carry water and a hat.
  • Expect persistent sellers, and a polite but firm no works best.
  • Ticket rules for sights change, so check them on the day.
  • Check your government's travel advice and entry rules before booking.
  • Carry small notes for tips and tickets, as change is often scarce.
  • A mid-afternoon rest is wise in the heat, followed by a late sunset visit.
  • Winter is the busiest season, so book guides and balloon flights early.
  • Respect local customs, particularly around dress and photography of people.
  • Sandals and a light scarf for the sun are better than a hat alone. Shade is scarce at the temples.

Where to stay in Luxor

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

East Bank

Luxor's East Bank contains the modern city centre, Luxor Temple, restaurants, shops and most conventional hotels. It is the easiest base for first-time visitors, though traffic and tourist activity make it less peaceful than the West Bank.

Nile Corniche

The Nile Corniche runs along Luxor's riverfront and is lined with hotels, restaurants and felucca departure points opposite the West Bank. It is particularly attractive for sunset views and couples, while remaining close to Luxor Temple.

Karnak

Karnak lies north of central Luxor around the enormous Karnak Temple complex and offers quieter hotels and residential streets. It is excellent for archaeology-focused stays, though restaurant and nightlife choices are thinner than in the centre.

West Bank

Luxor's West Bank offers villages, farmland and guesthouses close to the Valley of the Kings, temples and tombs. It is much quieter and more atmospheric than the East Bank, though reaching the city centre generally involves a ferry or road transfer.

Gezira

Gezira is a West Bank village directly opposite central Luxor, with guesthouses, rooftop restaurants and easy ferry access across the Nile. It provides a strong balance of tranquillity, value and convenience for independent travellers.

South Luxor

The southern edge of Luxor contains larger resort-style hotels with gardens, pools and Nile views away from the busiest centre. It is well suited to families and relaxation, though guests rely more on taxis for sightseeing and dining.

What it costs

A typical day in Luxor, per person, in pounds.

£10

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£23

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£44

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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