Destination guide

Lyon

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Lyon is France's gastronomic capital, and one of its most underrated cities. It sits where two rivers meet, with a Renaissance old town, Roman ruins on a hill and a food culture that is taken extremely seriously.

It is less crowded than Paris, and more relaxed. It rewards a slow pace, with long lunches and walks along the river banks.

How many days: 3

Three days is a good length for the old town, the hill, the food and a day trip. Two is enough if you focus on the highlights.

Day trips go to the Beaujolais wine villages, the medieval town of Pérouges and the Alps. Trains and tours run to all of them.

What to do in Lyon

Wander Vieux Lyon
The Renaissance old town has narrow lanes and hidden passages, called traboules. They once let silk workers carry goods through the city.
Climb Fourvière Hill
A hill topped by a basilica with views over the city. Roman theatres sit on the slope.
Visit a covered food market
Lyon's indoor market sells cheese, charcuterie, pastries and wine. A good place for lunch.
Explore the Croix-Rousse
A hillside district where silk weavers worked. It still has a village feel, with a market and traboules.
Walk along the rivers
Both the Rhône and Saône have riverside promenades. They are pleasant for a walk or a cycle.
Take a day trip to Beaujolais
Villages and vineyards are an hour away. Check the tasting arrangements in advance.
See street murals
Lyon is known for its large trompe-l'oeil murals that cover building walls. Follow a trail to see them.
Visit the Musée des Confluences
A striking modern museum at the point where the two rivers meet, covering science, nature and human history. Its glass-and-steel building is worth seeing from outside as well.
Explore the Presqu'île
The peninsula between the rivers is the commercial centre, with grand squares, shops and the opera house. A good place for an afternoon walk.
Browse the Sunday market on the Saône
A long riverside market with produce, cheese and flowers. A pleasant way to see local life.

What to eat and drink

Bouchon cuisine
Small traditional restaurants serve local dishes, such as sausages, tripe and quenelles. Look for places that are full of locals.
Quenelles
Light fish or meat dumplings in a creamy sauce. A Lyon classic.
Praline tart
A bright pink tart made with sugar-coated almonds. A local sweet speciality.
Local cheese
Look for Saint-Marcellin and other regional cheeses. Buy them from a market stall.
Beaujolais and Rhône wine
The wine regions on either side of the city produce excellent wines. Ask for a recommendation.
Cervelle de canut
A fresh cheese spread with herbs, garlic and shallots, eaten on bread. A simple local starter.
Andouillette and saucisson brioché
Traditional sausages served in bouchons, the second wrapped in sweet bread. They are rich, and best shared.

Getting around

The central areas are compact and walkable. The metro, tram and funicular cover the rest.

Trains reach Paris in about two hours, and also link to the Alps and the Mediterranean. The high-speed network is excellent.

Bike rental schemes are available around the city.

Good to know

  • Lyon's restaurants have set meal times, and many close in the afternoon and one or two days a week. Book ahead.
  • Summers are hot and winters are cold and grey. Spring and autumn are most pleasant.
  • A festival of lights is held in early December, and the city is very busy. Book accommodation early.
  • Many museums close on Mondays. Check the official sites.
  • The city has a good public transport system, and one ticket covers metro, tram, funicular and bus. A short stay is easy without a car.
  • Booking restaurants is wise, as the best small places fill early, particularly at weekends.

Where to stay in Lyon

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Vieux Lyon

Vieux Lyon is the city's Renaissance old town, with cobbled streets, traboules, traditional bouchons and major historic attractions beneath Fourvière Hill. It is highly atmospheric and romantic, although its busiest streets become crowded with visitors.

Presqu'île

Presqu'île is Lyon's central peninsula between the Rhône and Saône rivers, packed with shopping, restaurants, squares and nightlife. It is the most practical all-round base for first-time visitors and short city breaks.

Croix-Rousse

Croix-Rousse is a hilltop neighbourhood with former silk-weavers' buildings, markets, cafés and a strong local atmosphere. It suits repeat visitors and couples seeking character away from the main tourist streets, though its slopes can make walking more demanding.

Part-Dieu

Part-Dieu is Lyon's main business and transport district, centred around the major railway station, office towers and shopping centre. It is extremely practical for business and onward travel, but lacks the charm of the historic centre.

Confluence

Confluence is a redeveloped waterfront district at the southern end of the Presqu'île, with striking contemporary architecture, shopping and riverside paths. It offers modern hotels and quieter evenings, though it feels less traditionally Lyonnais.

Les Brotteaux

Les Brotteaux is an upscale neighbourhood close to Parc de la Tête d'Or, known for restaurants, bars and elegant residential streets. It is particularly strong for dining, business and quieter premium stays, while remaining well connected to the centre.

What it costs

A typical day in Lyon, per person, in pounds.

£53

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£131

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

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