Morocco

Marrakech

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Marrakech is the kind of city that is easiest to understand once you stop trying to plan it. The old walled city, the medina, is a dense maze of lanes, courtyards, workshops and markets. Inside, cars mostly disappear and the day runs on foot and by the sound of the muezzin, the souks and the squares.

It rewards a slower approach. A good morning here is a garden, a long lunch and a rest through the heat of the afternoon, then back out when the light softens and the main square comes alive.

How many days: 3 to 4

Three days covers the medina's main sights, the souks and at least one of the gardens, with time to rest in between. The pace is better when you do not stack too many things in one day.

A fourth day opens up a day trip into the Atlas foothills or out to the coast at Essaouira, which are both usually done with a driver or an organised tour. Check journey times before you commit, as roads can be slow.

What to do in Marrakech

Get lost in the souks
The markets north of the main square sell leather, lamps, ceramics, spices and textiles. Prices are usually negotiated, so settle on what you are willing to pay before you start, and walk away politely if it is too high.
Visit Jemaa el-Fnaa at different times
The main square changes through the day, from quiet in the morning to crowded with food stalls and performers in the evening. Watch for a while before deciding what to try.
See Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs
Two of the city's best-known historic sights, close to each other in the southern part of the medina. Both are small enough to see in a morning.
Spend time in Jardin Majorelle
A garden famous for its blue buildings and plants. It tends to get busy, so going early and checking the current ticket rules before you go is sensible.
Try a hammam
A traditional bathhouse visit is a good way to spend an afternoon. Some are for locals and some are set up for visitors, so ask your accommodation which kind suits you.
Day trip to the Atlas Mountains or Essaouira
The mountains are a cooler, quieter change of scene, and Essaouira is a breezy walled port on the Atlantic coast. Either is a long day, so start early.

What to eat and drink

Tagine
Slow-cooked stews named after the conical clay pot they are cooked in, usually made with meat or vegetables and spices. A staple on almost every menu.
Couscous
Traditionally eaten on Fridays, with vegetables and meat. Many restaurants serve it every day, but it is worth asking about the Friday version.
Pastilla
A layered pastry traditionally filled with spiced poultry and dusted with sugar and cinnamon. It is sweet and savoury at once, which surprises some visitors.
Mint tea
Sweet green tea poured from a height, offered everywhere as a sign of hospitality. It is a social ritual as much as a drink.
Fresh juice and street food
Orange juice is sold from carts around the main square. For street food, pick busy stalls with high turnover, and ask your riad host for advice if you are unsure.
Harira
A tomato and lentil soup, often eaten to break the fast in Ramadan. A good, filling starter at any time of year.

Getting around

The medina is a pedestrian maze. Cars cannot reach many riads, so accommodation often arranges a pickup from the nearest gate, and it is worth confirming how to get there before you arrive.

Outside the walls, small taxis are the usual way to get around. Agree the fare before you get in or insist on the meter, and keep small notes for payment. Ride-hailing apps are available in some form but practice varies, so do not rely on them.

The airport is a short drive from the centre by taxi. Check the current fare and bus options with your accommodation or the airport's official site.

Good to know

  • Dress modestly out of respect for local custom. Shoulders and knees covered is a good general rule outside your hotel.
  • Midday is hot for much of the year. Plan activities for mornings and evenings, and rest in the afternoon.
  • Always ask before photographing people, especially in the souks and the main square, and be prepared to be asked for a tip if you do.
  • The currency is the Moroccan dirham. Carry cash for markets and small purchases, since cards are less widely accepted there.

Where to stay in Marrakech

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Medina

The walled old city surrounds Jemaa el-Fna, the souks and Ben Youssef Madrasa, with riads hidden down pedestrian lanes. It is the obvious first-time base for atmosphere and sightseeing; navigation, crowds, street noise and limited vehicle access are the trade-offs.

Gueliz

Marrakech's modern centre runs around Avenue Mohammed V, with cafes, shops, Jardin Majorelle and the Yves Saint Laurent Museum nearby. It suits travellers wanting restaurants and straightforward transport; wide roads and modern blocks sacrifice much of the old city's atmosphere.

Hivernage

Large hotels, gardens and polished restaurants line Avenue Mohammed VI near the Palais des Congres and Menara Mall. It suits luxury, business and nightlife-focused stays; prices are high and the purpose-built hotel district feels less distinctly Marrakchi than the Medina.

Kasbah

South of Jemaa el-Fna, the Kasbah contains the Saadian Tombs, Bab Agnaou and residential lanes beside the Royal Palace. It suits travellers wanting history with fewer souk crowds; some streets are quieter after dark and reaching northern Medina sights takes longer.

Mellah

Marrakech's historic Jewish quarter sits beside Bahia Palace and Place des Ferblantiers, with spice stalls, synagogues and narrow market streets. It gives strong character and good value near major sights; accommodation choice and evening dining are thinner than elsewhere in the Medina.

Palmeraie

The palm grove north of Marrakech spreads resorts, villas and gardens across a large semi-rural area. It suits families, pools and resort downtime away from the city centre; taxis or hotel transfers are effectively essential and spontaneous Medina sightseeing becomes inconvenient.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 18°C3°C 5
Feb 19°C5°C 6
Mar 22°C7°C 6
Apr 24°C10°C 6
May 28°C12°C 4
Jun 32°C16°C 2
Jul 36°C18°C 1
Aug 36°C19°C 3
Sep 31°C16°C 3
Oct 27°C13°C 4
Nov 22°C8°C 5
Dec 19°C4°C 5

What it costs

A typical day in Marrakech, per person, in pounds.

£19

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£46

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£54

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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