Destination guide

Naples

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Naples is raw, loud, generous and unforgettable. It is one of the oldest cities in Europe, with a dense historic centre, a famously good food culture and a view of Mount Vesuvius across the bay.

It is not polished, and it does not try to be. Visitors who like character and street life will love it, while those who want order may find it a challenge.

How many days: 3

Three days covers the historic centre, the archaeological museum and a day trip to Pompeii or Herculaneum. Two is enough for a quick food-led trip.

Naples is also a base for the Amalfi Coast, Capri and Ischia. Plan these separately, and check the ferry and train timetables.

What to do in Naples

Eat pizza where it started
Naples is the birthplace of pizza. Eat it at a traditional pizzeria, where it is baked quickly in a wood oven.
Explore the historic centre
The old streets, called Spaccanapoli, run straight through the middle of the city. Churches, shrines and street life line every block.
Visit the National Archaeological Museum
Home to many of the finds from Pompeii and Herculaneum, including mosaics and frescoes. Go before visiting the sites for context.
See Pompeii or Herculaneum
Two Roman towns buried by Vesuvius. Pompeii is bigger, and Herculaneum is smaller and better preserved. Both are easy by train.
Take a walk along the seafront
The waterfront has views of Vesuvius and the Castel dell'Ovo, a fortress on a small island. Evening is the best time to go.
Descend into the underground
Naples has a network of ancient tunnels and cisterns under the old city. Guided tours explain the history.
Ride the funicular to Vomero
The hill gives views over the city and the bay. The Certosa di San Martino is a monastery with a fine view.
Take a day trip to the Amalfi Coast or Capri
Both are reachable by ferry or train and road. Check the timetable and plan a full day, as the journeys take time.
Visit the Royal Palace
A large palace on the main square with state rooms and a library. A calm contrast to the crowded streets outside.

What to eat and drink

Neapolitan pizza
A soft, charred crust with simple toppings of tomato, mozzarella and basil. Eaten folded in quarters on the street, called a portafoglio.
Sfogliatella
A shell-shaped pastry filled with ricotta and citrus. A classic Naples breakfast with coffee.
Espresso
Coffee in Naples is strong and short, often sweetened in the pot. Drink it standing at the bar.
Fried street food
Pizza fritta and fritters are sold from small shops in paper cones. Cheap and filling.
Seafood pasta
Pasta with clams, mussels or anchovies is a Neapolitan classic. Look for places near the water.
Mozzarella di bufala
The region is famous for buffalo mozzarella, best eaten fresh from a local shop. It is usually sold in the morning.

Getting around

The centre is best seen on foot, although it can be hectic with scooters and narrow streets. Take care when crossing roads.

The metro and funiculars are good for the hills, and trains reach Pompeii, Herculaneum and the coast. Buy tickets before you board.

Taxis should use meters or agree a fixed price in advance. Ask before you get in.

Good to know

  • Naples has a reputation for petty crime. Keep bags closed and in front of you, avoid wearing flashy jewellery and stay alert on busy streets.
  • Summers are hot, and spring and autumn are pleasant. Winter can be rainy, but crowds are smaller.
  • Many shops close for a long lunch break and on Sundays. Check opening arrangements before you go.
  • Some parts of the city are less polished than the tourist areas. Take local advice on where to walk after dark.
  • Naples can feel overwhelming at first. Take it slowly, ask locals for advice and give yourself time to adjust.

Where to stay in Naples

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Centro Storico

Ancient lanes around Spaccanapoli, Via dei Tribunali and Santa Chiara pack churches, pizzerias and street life into Naples' historic core. It is the obvious first-time base; crowds, scooters, noise and tightly packed streets are part of the deal.

Quartieri Spagnoli

Steep lanes behind Via Toledo are packed with trattorias, shrines, washing lines and bars, with the Maradona murals drawing steady crowds. It suits travellers wanting Naples at maximum intensity; narrow streets, noise and constant activity make it a poor choice for calm.

Chiaia

Elegant streets around Via dei Mille, Piazza dei Martiri and Villa Comunale combine boutiques, restaurants and easy access to the seafront. It suits travellers wanting a polished central base; hotels, shopping and nightlife generally cost more than elsewhere in Naples.

Vomero

Residential streets climb around Piazza Vanvitelli to Castel Sant'Elmo and Certosa di San Martino, with broad views across the bay. It suits families and travellers wanting a calmer neighbourhood base; the hill separates you from much of central Naples despite good metro and funicular links.

Rione Sanità

A dense historic district north of the centre, Sanità mixes markets and local food with the Catacombs of San Gennaro and Palazzo dello Spagnolo. It offers strong value and character; streets feel rougher-edged and transport is less effortless than in the central tourist districts.

Mergellina

The waterfront around Via Caracciolo and Mergellina harbour gives long seaside walks, seafood restaurants and views towards Vesuvius. It suits couples and slower stays near the water; the historic centre sits further east and evenings are calmer than Naples' main nightlife districts.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 12°C6°C 11
Feb 12°C6°C 11
Mar 15°C7°C 11
Apr 18°C10°C 12
May 22°C14°C 8
Jun 26°C18°C 6
Jul 29°C20°C 4
Aug 30°C21°C 4
Sep 25°C18°C 9
Oct 21°C14°C 11
Nov 17°C11°C 14
Dec 13°C7°C 12

What it costs

A typical day in Naples, per person, in pounds.

£49

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£99

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£134

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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