Cambodia

Phnom Penh

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Phnom Penh is Cambodia's capital, where busy streets, riverside promenades, markets and Buddhist temples sit alongside reminders of the country's difficult modern history. You come for the Royal Palace, important museums, Khmer food and a better understanding of Cambodia beyond its ancient temples.

The city is energetic rather than polished. Traffic can be chaotic, pavements are inconsistent and the heat often shapes your day. Its most meaningful sights can be emotionally demanding, so balance them with quieter moments beside the river, in cafés or exploring local neighbourhoods.

How many days: 3

Spend your first day around the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda and National Museum, then walk along the riverside in the evening. On your second day, visit the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and Choeung Ek Genocidal Center. These are serious historical sites, so leave time afterwards rather than rushing into more sightseeing.

Use your final day for Wat Phnom, markets and neighbourhood exploration. You can also take a boat trip on the rivers where conditions allow. Three days gives you a balanced introduction without treating the city's history as a checklist.

What to do in Phnom Penh

Visit the Royal Palace
Explore the ceremonial palace complex and its traditional Khmer architecture where public access is permitted. Dress respectfully and check official visiting arrangements before setting out.
See the Silver Pagoda
Visit the important religious complex within the Royal Palace grounds, known for its Buddha images and ornate decoration. Some areas may be restricted, so follow local guidance.
Explore the National Museum
Discover Khmer sculpture and artefacts spanning different periods of Cambodian history. It provides valuable context for visits to Angkor and other historic sites.
Visit the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
Learn about the Khmer Rouge period at the former S-21 prison. The exhibits include disturbing testimony and images, making this an important but emotionally difficult visit.
Reflect at Choeung Ek
Visit the memorial site associated with the Khmer Rouge killings outside central Phnom Penh. Approach the experience respectfully and allow sufficient time for the historical explanations.
Walk along Sisowath Quay
Follow the riverside promenade where the Tonle Sap and Mekong river system shapes city life. The area is particularly pleasant when the afternoon heat begins to ease.
Climb to Wat Phnom
Visit the hilltop temple associated with the city's founding traditions. The surrounding greenery offers a brief break from busy streets.
Browse the Central Market
Explore the distinctive domed market building and stalls selling clothing, jewellery, food and everyday goods. It is worth visiting for the architecture as well as the shopping.
Explore the Russian Market
Browse a dense network of stalls selling crafts, clothing and household items. Go with patience, as the interior can feel hot and crowded.
Take a river boat trip
See Phnom Penh from the water and appreciate its position near the meeting of major rivers. Choose an established operator locally and follow safety guidance, particularly during changing river conditions.

What to eat and drink

Try fish amok
Enjoy a Khmer curry-like dish traditionally made with fish, coconut and aromatic spices. Preparations vary, but it is a useful introduction to Cambodian flavours.
Have num banh chok
Try rice noodles with a fragrant fish-based gravy, fresh herbs and vegetables. It is commonly eaten earlier in the day.
Eat beef lok lak
Order stir-fried beef served with vegetables, rice and a peppery dipping sauce. It is a familiar and satisfying Khmer meal.
Sample Khmer barbecue
Try grilled meats or seafood with rice, vegetables and dipping sauces. Choose busy, clean-looking places where food is cooked thoroughly.
Explore market snacks
Look for grilled skewers, rice cakes and freshly prepared savoury bites. Start with foods served hot if you are adjusting to local street food.
Drink iced coffee or fresh coconut
Cool down with strong sweet coffee or coconut water. Cambodia's hot climate makes a shaded drink stop a useful part of sightseeing.

Getting around

Central Phnom Penh has walkable sections, particularly around the riverside and Royal Palace, but broken pavements, heat and busy junctions make longer walks tiring. Tuk-tuks are widely used for short journeys, and ride-hailing apps can make fares and destinations clearer. Check your vehicle before boarding.

For Choeung Ek and other outlying sites, arrange a tuk-tuk or car and agree whether the driver will wait. Allow extra time for traffic. Crossing roads requires patience and attention, as vehicles may approach from several directions. Avoid carrying your phone loosely beside moving traffic.

Good to know

  • Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek contain distressing material about mass violence. They are not suitable for every visitor, particularly young children.
  • Dress modestly when visiting temples and royal religious sites, covering shoulders and knees.
  • Cambodian riel and US dollars may both appear in everyday transactions. Check which currency is being quoted and inspect change.
  • Phone and bag snatching can occur around busy roads. Keep valuables away from the traffic side of the pavement.
  • The climate is hot and humid, with heavy rain possible during the wet season. Carry drinking water and plan breaks.
  • Tipping is appreciated but not obligatory. For tuk-tuks and informal services, agree the price before the journey.

Where to stay in Phnom Penh

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Riverside & Daun Penh

The historic riverside is Phnom Penh's easiest sightseeing base, putting the Royal Palace, National Museum, Wat Ounalom and Sisowath Quay within walking distance. It suits first-time visitors who value convenience and atmosphere, but the riverfront is touristy, busy and among the city's noisier places to sleep.

BKK1

Boeung Keng Kang 1 is an embassy and café district with boutique hotels, international restaurants and a calmer residential feel than the riverside. It is one of the most balanced bases for couples, business travellers and longer stays, although most headline historic sights require a short tuk-tuk ride.

Tonle Bassac

Tonle Bassac combines modern apartments, restaurants, bars and the nightlife around Bassac Lane while remaining close to central Phnom Penh. It works particularly well for couples and travellers who want evenings out without staying on the hectic riverfront, but sightseeing is less walkable and weekend nightlife can create localised noise.

Tuol Tom Poung

Tuol Tom Poung is a lively local neighbourhood centred on the Russian Market, with inexpensive restaurants, cafés and small hotels that offer strong value. It suits repeat visitors and food-focused travellers, but it is farther from the Royal Palace and riverside and its busy streets can feel congested rather than relaxing.

Central Market & 7 Makara

The streets around Central Market offer a practical, energetic base for shopping, local food and access to both the riverside and commercial centre. Accommodation is often good value and the location is useful for short stays, but heavy traffic and dense development make it a poor choice for travellers seeking peace or greenery.

Chroy Changvar

Across the river from central Phnom Penh, Chroy Changvar offers newer hotels, river views and a noticeably less congested atmosphere than the historic centre. It suits couples and families wanting space and quiet, but crossing the river adds travel time for sightseeing, restaurants and journeys towards KTI.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 32°C23°C 3
Feb 33°C24°C 2
Mar 35°C25°C 6
Apr 35°C26°C 15
May 34°C26°C 23
Jun 32°C25°C 24
Jul 32°C25°C 25
Aug 32°C25°C 26
Sep 31°C25°C 27
Oct 30°C24°C 25
Nov 30°C24°C 11
Dec 31°C23°C 5

What it costs

A typical day in Phnom Penh, per person, in pounds.

£20

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£40

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£74

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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