Destination guide

Puglia

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Puglia is the heel of Italy's boot, a long, flat region of olive groves, white towns, baroque churches and a coastline of rocky coves and sandy beaches. The pace is slow, the food is outstanding and the landscape is dotted with strange stone buildings.

It suits visitors who want a mix of sun, simple food and small-town life. It is best explored by car, with a few bases rather than constant moves.

How many days: 7

A week allows you to see the main towns and a few beaches. A long weekend suits a base in one area.

The region is long. Choose between the north, around Bari and the Gargano, and the south, around Lecce and Salento.

What to do in Puglia

Explore Lecce
A baroque town built in honey-coloured stone, with elaborate church facades. A good base for the south.
Visit Alberobello
A town full of conical white stone houses called trulli, a World Heritage site. Popular, but photogenic.
Walk through Ostuni
A hilltop town of whitewashed houses and lanes, known as the White City. Beautiful at sunset.
See Polignano a Mare
A town perched on cliffs above the sea, with a cave restaurant and clear water. Busy in summer.
Swim along the Salento coast
Clear water and rocky coves line the south-east. Some beaches are sandy, and others are rocky platforms.
Stay at a masseria
Old fortified farmhouses have been converted to guesthouses among olive trees. A popular local style of stay.
Visit Matera
A cave city just over the border in Basilicata, with ancient dwellings carved into the rock. An easy day trip.
Take a food tour
Puglia has a strong food culture. A cooking class or tasting is a good way to meet people.
Visit Castel del Monte
A mysterious eight-sided castle on a hilltop, built in the thirteenth century. A World Heritage site with a strange geometry.
Take a boat trip along the Gargano coast
White cliffs, sea caves and rocky bays line the northern coast. Boats leave from small ports.
Visit Gallipoli or Otranto
Two coastal towns in Salento, one with a walled old town on an island and the other with a cathedral famous for its mosaic floor. Both have good beaches nearby.

What to eat and drink

Orecchiette
Little ear-shaped pasta, served with turnip tops or tomato sauce. The classic dish of the region.
Burrata
A fresh creamy cheese with a soft centre, from Puglia. Eat it with tomatoes and bread.
Focaccia barese
A soft focaccia topped with tomatoes and olives. A cheap and popular snack.
Fresh seafood
Raw fish and shellfish are a local speciality. Look for places on the coast.
Pasticciotto
A pastry with custard, eaten warm for breakfast in Lecce. A local favourite.
Primitivo and Negroamaro wines
Local red wines with big flavours. Ask for a recommendation in a local wine bar.
Taralli
A ring-shaped savoury biscuit, flavoured with fennel or pepper. A traditional snack.
Olive oil
Puglia produces more olive oil than any other region in Italy. Taste it with bread at a farm.

Getting around

A hire car is the best way to see the region. Roads are good, but towns have narrow lanes and limited parking.

Trains link the main towns, but are slow. Buses fill some gaps.

Airports at Bari and Brindisi serve the region.

Good to know

  • Summer is very hot and busy. Late spring and early autumn are better.
  • Many restaurants close in the afternoon, and some close in winter. Check before you go.
  • Beaches can be crowded in August, when Italians take their holidays.
  • Many small towns are quiet in the afternoon. Plan for a long lunch.
  • The region is mostly flat. It is good for cycling.
  • The region is flat, with long drives between towns. Plan only one or two stops a day.
  • Southern Italian hospitality means long, leisurely meals. Plan to linger at the table.

Where to stay in Puglia

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Ostuni

Ostuni is a dramatic whitewashed hill town overlooking olive groves and the Adriatic, with boutique hotels, restaurants and winding historic streets. It is one of Puglia's strongest choices for romantic stays and atmosphere, though a car is useful for reaching beaches and nearby towns.

Polignano a Mare

Polignano a Mare is a cliffside coastal town known for dramatic sea views, a famous cove beach and a beautiful compact historic centre. It is highly romantic and photogenic, though it becomes extremely busy in summer and accommodation can be expensive.

Monopoli

Monopoli combines a lively old town, working harbour, restaurants and small urban beaches along the Adriatic. It offers an excellent balance of local life, beach access and transport, making it a strong base for exploring central Puglia.

Alberobello

Alberobello is famous for its distinctive trulli houses and UNESCO-listed historic districts, creating one of Puglia's most recognisable landscapes. It is excellent for sightseeing and romantic short stays, though daytime crowds can overwhelm the small town.

Lecce

Lecce is Puglia's baroque cultural capital, filled with ornate churches, honey-coloured architecture, restaurants and lively piazzas. It is one of the region's best bases for culture and dining, although the nearest beaches require a short drive.

Savelletri & Fasano Coast

The coast around Savelletri and Fasano is known for luxury masserie, beach clubs, golf and olive-grove landscapes. It is ideal for premium resort stays and couples, but is car-dependent and significantly more expensive than Puglia's inland towns.

What it costs

A typical day in Puglia, per person, in pounds.

£99

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£110

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

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