Destination guide

Reykjavik

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Reykjavik is the northernmost capital in the world, and a small, colourful city on the edge of a very large landscape. The town itself is easy to see in a day, and most visitors use it as a base for waterfalls, glaciers, hot springs and volcanic scenery nearby.

It is creative, friendly and relaxed, with good coffee, street art and a strong swimming-pool culture. The weather is changeable, so dress in layers and treat plans as flexible.

How many days: 4

Four days gives you a day in town and three days out in the landscape. A long weekend works if you pick one or two excursions and keep the rest light.

The classic loop is the Golden Circle, with its national park, geyser area and big waterfall. The south coast, with black beaches and glacier walks, needs a full day too.

What to do in Reykjavik

See Hallgrímskirkja
The distinctive concrete church dominates the skyline, and its tower gives a view over the colourful rooftops. It is a good first stop for getting your bearings.
Walk the old harbour
A working harbour with fishing boats, whale-watching departures and a few small museums. A pleasant walk, and good for a seafood lunch.
Soak in a geothermal pool
Swimming pools heated by volcanic water are a daily habit for locals. Public pools are easy to find in the city, and there are also larger lagoon-style spas outside. Shower thoroughly before you get in, as the rules require.
Drive or tour the Golden Circle
A well-known route to a national park, a geothermal geyser field and a thundering waterfall. It is easily done in a day by car or on a tour.
Look for the northern lights
In winter, tours head out of the city on clear nights to look for the aurora. It is never guaranteed, so allow several evenings and check the forecast.
See the south coast
Waterfalls, black sand beaches and glacier views fill a long day trip. Follow the safety signs, as the sea and the ice can be dangerous.
Go whale watching
Boats leave from the old harbour for trips into the bay. Sightings are common in summer, but not certain.

What to eat and drink

Icelandic lamb
Lamb that grazes freely in the highlands is a national pride. Look for a slow-cooked lamb soup, a warming and simple dish.
Fresh fish
Cod, haddock and Arctic char are caught nearby and cooked simply. Fish and chips here are excellent.
Skyr
A thick, high-protein dairy product that is similar to yoghurt. Eat it for breakfast with berries.
Hot dogs
The local hot dog is a famous snack, served with crispy onions and sauces. A cheap and popular meal.
Coffee and bakeries
Coffee culture is strong and cafes are cosy places to wait out a shower. Try the cinnamon pastries.
Local beer and spirits
Iceland has a growing craft beer scene and its own spirits. Bars serve them in small glasses to taste.

Getting around

The city centre is small and compact, and you will walk almost everywhere. Buses cover the wider area.

To explore beyond the city, hire a car or join a tour. Roads can be icy in winter, and conditions change quickly. Check the official road and weather sites before driving.

The international airport is about 45 minutes from the city, and coaches and taxis connect the two.

Good to know

  • Iceland is one of the most expensive places in Europe. Plan your budget carefully, and look for supermarkets and bakeries for cheaper meals.
  • Weather changes fast. Pack waterproofs, warm layers, sturdy boots and a swimsuit.
  • Daylight changes dramatically through the year. Summer has almost endless light, and winter has only a few hours of it.
  • Follow safety advice at natural sites. Waves, ice and geothermal areas are real dangers, and tourists are hurt every year.
  • Tap water is clean and safe to drink. Carry a refillable bottle.

Where to stay in Reykjavik

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Miðbær (City Centre)

Compact central Reykjavík runs from Hallgrímskirkja through Laugavegur to Austurvöllur and the harbour, concentrating shops, restaurants and nightlife. It is the easiest first-time base; the trade-off is weekend noise and some of Iceland's highest accommodation prices.

Þingholt

Colourful older houses climb the quieter streets behind Skólavörðustígur towards Hallgrímskirkja and the Einar Jónsson Sculpture Garden. It suits couples wanting a polished, atmospheric base beside downtown; rooms remain expensive and nightlife is concentrated a few streets downhill.

Vesturbær

Traditional residential streets west of the centre surround Vesturbæjarlaug pool and the National Museum, with the waterfront close by. It suits families and travellers wanting everyday Reykjavík within walking distance of downtown; restaurants and nightlife are much thinner than in Miðbær.

Old Harbour & Grandi

Former fish-processing buildings around the Old Harbour now contain restaurants, museums and attractions including the Maritime Museum and Þúfa. It suits travellers wanting waterfront character and food; it is quieter after dinner and sits slightly beyond the main shopping and nightlife streets.

Hlíðar

Residential Hlíðar spreads around Klambratún and towards wooded Öskjuhlíð, Perlan and Nauthólsvík geothermal beach. It offers space and better value close to the centre; the trade-off is fewer restaurants and a bus or longer walk for most downtown nightlife.

Laugardalur

Reykjavík's main recreation district combines Laugardalslaug geothermal pool, the Botanical Garden and Family Park and Zoo in broad green space. It is excellent for families and slower stays; downtown restaurants, nightlife and historic sights require a bus ride.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 1°C-3°C 18
Feb 2°C-3°C 17
Mar 3°C-2°C 17
Apr 6°C0°C 17
May 9°C4°C 16
Jun 13°C7°C 14
Jul 14°C9°C 15
Aug 14°C8°C 16
Sep 10°C6°C 18
Oct 6°C2°C 15
Nov 3°C-1°C 16
Dec 2°C-3°C 18

What it costs

A typical day in Reykjavik, per person, in pounds.

£101

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£180

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£223

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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