Destination guide

Riga

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Riga is the largest city in the Baltics, and a capital with a lively old town and the finest collection of Art Nouveau buildings in Europe. Pastel facades, spires and cobbled lanes surround a river and parks.

It is relaxed, good value and full of cafes. It rewards visitors who look up at the buildings and wander into courtyards.

How many days: 3

Three days covers the old town, the Art Nouveau district and the market. Two is enough for a quick visit.

A trip to the seaside town of Jūrmala or the medieval castles of the Gauja valley is easy by train or bus. Plan it separately.

What to do in Riga

Wander the Old Town
Medieval lanes, guild halls and squares make up the old centre. Visit early or late to avoid the crowds.
Look at Art Nouveau Street
Alberta Street and nearby roads are lined with ornate facades covered in faces, flowers and sculptures. Look up as you walk.
Visit the Central Market
Housed in former Zeppelin hangars, it is one of the largest markets in Europe. Fish, meat, vegetables and bakery stalls fill the halls.
Climb St Peter's Church tower
A lift takes you up to a viewing platform over the old town and the river. A good spot for orientation.
See the Freedom Monument
A tall monument at the edge of the old town, a symbol of national independence. Honour guards stand beside it.
Walk in the parks
A ring of green parks and canals runs around the old town. A pleasant place to sit and rest.
Take a day trip to Jūrmala
A long sandy beach and a town of wooden houses, a short train ride away. Best in summer.
Visit the House of the Blackheads
A richly decorated building in the Town Hall Square, rebuilt after the Second World War. Its facade is one of the most photographed in the city.
See the Open-Air Ethnographic Museum
A large forest museum with historic wooden buildings from across Latvia. Fairs and festivals are held here in summer.
Visit the Latvian National Museum of Art
A grand building with a strong collection of Latvian painting, from the nineteenth century to modern times. A good rainy-day stop.
Walk around Bastion Hill
A small park with a canal and a waterfall behind the old town. A quiet green loop with a view of the skyline.

What to eat and drink

Rye bread
Dark, dense rye bread is a Latvian staple. Often served with butter, cheese or cured fish.
Grey peas and bacon
A traditional dish of boiled peas with fried bacon and onions. Often eaten at festivals.
Smoked fish
Fish smoked on the coast is sold in markets. Look for smoked salmon and sprats.
Black Balsam
A bitter herbal liqueur, a Latvian icon. Often taken in a small glass, or mixed with coffee.
Local beer
The Baltic region has a strong beer tradition. Craft beer is easy to find.
Sklandrausis
A traditional rye pastry filled with carrot and potato, flavoured with caraway. A Latvian classic.

Getting around

The old town and centre are compact and walkable. Trams, buses and trolleybuses cover the rest.

Taxis and ride-hailing apps are inexpensive.

The airport is close to the city and reached by bus or taxi.

Good to know

  • Latvia uses the euro. Cards are accepted in most places.
  • Winters are cold and snowy, and summers are mild. Spring and early autumn are comfortable.
  • Some bars in the old town are aimed at stag parties. Choose quieter streets for a relaxed evening.
  • Latvian and Russian are both widely spoken, and many people speak English.
  • Cobbles and uneven streets are common. Wear sturdy shoes.
  • Riga has a song festival tradition that dates back well over a century, and choirs sing at many events. Check for concerts in summer.
  • The Riga card, where available, bundles transport and museum entries, and suits visitors who plan to see several sights. Check the official tourism site.

Where to stay in Riga

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Vecrīga (Old Town)

Medieval lanes around Dome Square, St Peter's Church and the House of the Blackheads form Riga's compact historic core. It is the obvious first-time base; tourist pricing, weekend nightlife and cobbled streets make it less peaceful and practical than surrounding districts.

Centrs

The broad streets beyond the Old Town mix Art Nouveau buildings, Vērmanes Garden, shops and a dense restaurant scene around Tērbatas and Barona streets. It suits business trips and travellers wanting central convenience; traffic and busy commercial streets reduce the sense of escape.

Klusais Centrs (Quiet Centre)

Riga's grand Art Nouveau quarter centres on Alberta and Elizabetes streets, with ornate façades, embassies and polished restaurants beside Kronvalda Park. It suits couples and upmarket stays; accommodation and dining cost more, and nightlife is subdued compared with the Old Town.

Miera iela

Miera Street and nearby Briāna mix wooden houses, speciality coffee, design shops and creative venues including Tallinn Street Quarter. It suits repeat visitors wanting contemporary local life; major sights sit 20-25 minutes away on foot and the hotel choice is thinner.

Āgenskalns

Wooden houses, leafy streets and the restored Āgenskalns Market give this left-bank neighbourhood a distinctly local feel, with Kalnciema Quarter nearby. It offers strong value and relaxed dining; most headline sights are across the Daugava and require a tram, bus or longer walk.

Ķīpsala

This Daugava island combines restored wooden houses, riverside paths and Ķīpsala Beach with skyline views back towards Old Riga. It suits quiet summer stays and families wanting space near the centre; restaurants are sparse and most sightseeing means crossing the river.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan -1°C-5°C 12
Feb -0°C-6°C 10
Mar 4°C-3°C 10
Apr 11°C2°C 10
May 16°C7°C 10
Jun 20°C12°C 11
Jul 22°C15°C 12
Aug 22°C14°C 13
Sep 17°C10°C 11
Oct 10°C5°C 14
Nov 4°C1°C 13
Dec 1°C-3°C 12

What it costs

A typical day in Riga, per person, in pounds.

£41

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£78

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£91

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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