Destination guide

San Sebastian

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San Sebastián, or Donostia in Basque, is a graceful seaside city in the Basque Country of northern Spain. A curved golden beach sits in the middle of town, with an old quarter, green hills and a reputation as one of the world's great food cities.

It is small, walkable and very stylish. It suits a food-focused weekend, with beach walks and hill climbs between meals.

How many days: 3

Three days is a good length for the old town, the beaches and a lot of eating. Two works for a quick break.

The Basque coast has small fishing villages and a lovely landscape. A day trip to the nearby towns is easy by bus or train.

What to do in San Sebastian

Walk the La Concha promenade
A curved bay with a white balustrade and a golden beach. A beautiful walk at any time of day.
Eat pintxos in the old town
Bars display small plates on the counter, and you pick as you go. Move from bar to bar.
Climb Monte Igueldo
A hill with a funicular and a view over the bay. Fun for families.
Climb Monte Urgull
A wooded hill above the old town, with paths and an old fort. A good place for a sunset walk.
Surf at Zurriola
A beach on the east side of the town, popular with surfers. Lessons are available.
See the Comb of the Wind
Sculptures by Eduardo Chillida anchored on the rocks at the end of the bay. The sea crashes through them.
Take a day trip to Hondarribia
A fishing village near the French border, with colourful balconies and a walled old town. Boats run from nearby Pasajes.
Visit a cider house
In spring, cider houses serve tastings from big barrels with a fixed menu. A traditional Basque outing.
Visit the Aquarium or the San Telmo Museum
Both are in the old town, and are good options in bad weather. The museum covers Basque culture and history.
Take a day trip to the Rioja or the coast
Wine country and coastal villages lie within an hour or two. A tour is the easiest option.

What to eat and drink

Pintxos
Small snacks on bread or skewers, from simple to elaborate. Order a drink and a few pintxos at each bar.
Gilda
A skewer of an olive, an anchovy and a pickled pepper. The original pintxo.
Basque cheesecake
A creamy, burnt-top cheesecake that originated in the city. A local classic.
Txuleta
A thick, aged steak grilled over embers and shared. A Basque favourite.
Txakoli
A light, slightly sparkling white wine poured from a height. It goes well with pintxos.
Fresh fish
Grilled turbot and hake are local favourites. Look for fishing village restaurants.
Pintxos etiquette
In many bars you order drinks at the counter and pay at the end. Take a plate, and keep the toothpicks to count your bill.
Local ham and cheese
Look for the best Basque cheeses and cured meats in the markets.

Getting around

The city centre is compact and walkable. Buses cover the wider city.

Trains and buses connect San Sebastián with Bilbao and with French towns.

Bike lanes run along the coast. Bikes can be rented.

Good to know

  • The Basque Country gets a lot of rain. Pack a waterproof, even in summer.
  • Restaurants and bars are busy at weekends, and top restaurants book out months ahead.
  • Summer is busy, and August is crowded. Spring and autumn are quieter.
  • Spain uses the euro. Cards are widely accepted.
  • The Basque language is widely seen on signs, alongside Spanish.
  • The old town is very crowded in the evening. Go early for pintxos, or try the neighbourhoods outside the centre.
  • The tide changes the shape of the main beach dramatically, and the sea is cold even in summer. Check for flags on the sand.

Where to stay in San Sebastian

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Parte Vieja

San Sebastián's old town is packed with pintxos bars, restaurants and historic streets beside La Concha Bay. It is the strongest location for food and nightlife, but can be crowded and noisy late into the evening.

Centro

Centro sits between the old town and La Concha Beach, with elegant streets, shopping and some of the city's most convenient hotels. It is an excellent all-round choice for first-time visitors, though accommodation prices are usually high.

Gros

Gros is a lively neighbourhood east of the river, centred on Zurriola Beach and known for surfing, pintxos bars and a younger local atmosphere. It offers excellent food and nightlife while feeling slightly less touristy than the old town.

Antiguo

Antiguo is a relaxed residential district at the western end of La Concha Bay near Ondarreta Beach and Monte Igueldo. It suits families and couples seeking a quieter stay while remaining within easy reach of the centre.

Amara

Amara is a residential and business district south of the historic centre with modern hotels, local restaurants and better value than the beachfront. It is practical for longer stays, though the city's main atmosphere requires a short walk or bus ride.

Monte Igueldo

The Monte Igueldo area rises above the western edge of San Sebastián and offers spectacular bay views, quieter surroundings and several upscale properties. It is ideal for romantic and scenic stays, but less convenient for walking into the centre.

What it costs

A typical day in San Sebastian, per person, in pounds.

£38

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£96

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

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