South Korea

Seoul

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Seoul is a fast-moving capital that mixes royal palaces, mountain trails, neon streets and cutting-edge technology. It is safe, well connected and very friendly to visitors, with food that deserves a trip in its own right.

Its markets, cafes and nightlife are lively, and the nearby mountains make it easy to escape the city.

How many days: 4

Four days covers the palaces, a market, a hike and a few neighbourhoods. Three is enough for the highlights.

Spend one day on the historic centre, one on newer districts, and one outdoors.

What to do in Seoul

Visit Gyeongbokgung Palace
The grandest of the royal palaces, with a changing of the guard ceremony. Hanbok rental gives a free entry in many cases, so check the rules.
Walk through Bukchon Hanok Village
A hillside of traditional houses. Residents live here, so keep your voice down.
Browse Insadong
A street of tea houses, galleries and craft shops.
Hike Bukhansan or Namsan
Trails with city views, close to the centre. Namsan has a tower and a cable car.
Explore Myeongdong and Hongdae
Shopping and street food in one, and live music and nightlife in the other.
Visit a market
Gwangjang is known for street food and Namdaemun for general goods.
Walk along the Cheonggyecheon stream
A restored stream running through the city, lit up at night.
Spend a day at a jjimjilbang
A Korean bathhouse with hot pools and saunas. A local way to relax.
Visit a second palace
Changdeokgung and its secret garden are quieter and often more beautiful than the main palace. Book the garden tour.
See the Han River at sunset
Parks along the river are full of picnickers. Rent a bike, or order food to be delivered to your spot.
Visit the war memorial museum
A large museum with free galleries explains the history of the Korean peninsula.
Take a day trip to the DMZ
Guided tours reach the border with North Korea. Book ahead with a licensed operator, and bring your passport.
Browse a stationery or beauty shop
Korean beauty and stationery shops are known worldwide. A fun way to spend an afternoon.
Spend an evening in a pocha
Tent-style bars serve snacks and soju. A friendly local experience.
Take a coffee break in a themed cafe
Seoul has cafes built around books, plants, cats and design. Pick one near your route and enjoy a slow break.

What to eat and drink

Korean barbecue
Grilled meat cooked at your table, with lettuce wraps and side dishes.
Bibimbap
Rice with vegetables, egg and chilli paste.
Kimchi stew and tofu stew
Hearty stews served bubbling hot.
Street food
Tteokbokki, fried chicken, and hotteok are all popular snacks.
Korean fried chicken
Crispy and often coated in sweet or spicy sauce. Served with beer.
Naengmyeon
Cold buckwheat noodles, a summer favourite.
Samgyeopsal
Grilled pork belly, wrapped in lettuce with garlic and sauce.
Pajeon and makgeolli
A savoury pancake and a sweet rice wine, a rainy-day pairing.
Bingsu
Shaved ice dessert with sweet toppings. Good in summer.

Getting around

The subway is clean, cheap and easy to use. Contactless cards and phones work on most lines.

Buses and taxis are plentiful, and map apps help with routes.

Walking is good in the old districts.

Good to know

  • Winters are cold and summers hot and humid. Pack accordingly.
  • Map apps made in Korea work better than some foreign ones. Download one before you arrive.
  • Tipping is not expected.
  • Remove your shoes when entering homes and some restaurants.
  • Many visitors need an electronic travel authorisation. Check the official site before you go.
  • Many restaurants serve at least two portions, so solo diners may find it harder to order. Some places have solo-friendly dishes.
  • Late-night dining is common, and many places are open into the small hours.
  • Stay near a subway line, as it makes every day easier. Most stations have clear English signs.

Where to stay in Seoul

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Myeongdong

Myeongdong suits first-time visitors who want shopping, food and straightforward access to central Seoul sights and transport. It is intensely commercial and busy, so travellers seeking neighbourhood calm or a local residential feel may prefer elsewhere.

Hongdae

Hongdae suits younger travellers, groups and anyone prioritising bars, live music, cafés and late-night energy. Hongik University Station gives excellent airport access, but noise and crowds make the busiest streets poor choices for light sleepers.

Gangnam

Gangnam works well for business travellers, upscale shopping and visitors interested in Seoul's modern commercial districts. It has excellent dining and nightlife but sits south of the river, making some historic north-Seoul sightseeing less convenient.

Insadong

Insadong suits travellers focused on palaces, traditional streets, tea houses and central historic Seoul. It is calmer at night than Hongdae or Itaewon and is highly convenient for sightseeing, although dedicated nightlife is limited.

Itaewon

Itaewon suits travellers looking for international restaurants, bars and one of Seoul's most diverse nightlife scenes. It is centrally positioned, but its strongest appeal is evening entertainment rather than proximity to the city's major palace sights.

Dongdaemun

Dongdaemun suits shoppers and travellers who value extensive metro connections and late-opening retail. Accommodation can offer useful value, though the area feels more commercial and hectic than atmospheric or relaxing.

What it costs

A typical day in Seoul, per person, in pounds.

£38

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£86

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£147

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

Ready when you are

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