Spain

Seville

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Seville is the capital of Andalusia, and it is the warm, orange-scented heart of southern Spain. Moorish palaces, baroque churches and tiled courtyards are all within walking distance.

It is a city for evenings. People eat late, drink in the street and spend hours over tapas, and the best time to be outside is after the day's heat.

How many days: 3

Three days is a good length for the main sights and a slow evening each night. Two is enough for the highlights.

Seville is also a good base for day trips to Cordoba, Granada or the white villages. Trains and buses are straightforward.

What to do in Seville

Tour the Real Alcázar
A royal palace with Moorish courtyards, tiles and gardens. Book a timed ticket in advance on the official site.
See the Cathedral and the Giralda
One of the largest cathedrals in the world, with a tower you can climb by ramp. The tower was once a minaret.
Visit the Plaza de España
A grand semicircular building with tiled alcoves, in a pleasant park. It is best early in the morning.
Wander Santa Cruz
The old Jewish quarter is a maze of whitewashed lanes, small squares and flower-filled balconies. Wander without a map.
Cross to Triana
A neighbourhood across the river with a long ceramics tradition, local bars and a food market. Less visited and more local.
Watch a flamenco show
Seville is one of the homes of flamenco. Choose a small venue with a good reputation for a more intimate show.
Climb the Metropol Parasol
A modern wooden structure with a walkway over the old town. A good place for sunset.
Cruise the river
Short boat trips on the Guadalquivir give a different view of the city and the Torre del Oro. A pleasant way to cool off in the evening.
Relax in Maria Luisa Park
A large shaded park beside the Plaza de España with fountains and pavilions. A good place to escape the sun.

What to eat and drink

Tapas
Small plates of ham, fried fish, tortilla and more, shared between friends. Move from bar to bar and order a couple at each.
Jamón ibérico
Cured ham from acorn-fed pigs is a regional pride. Order a plate with bread and a glass of sherry.
Salmorejo
A thick, cold tomato soup, richer than gazpacho, and topped with egg and ham. Perfect on a hot day.
Sherry
The sherry region is a short trip away. Dry styles go well with tapas and are served chilled.
Orange blossom sweets
The city's orange trees give rise to marmalades and pastries. Look for them in convent bakeries.
Fried fish
The southern coast is known for lightly fried fish, served in paper cones or on plates. Look for freshness and busy kitchens.

Getting around

The historic centre is compact and best seen on foot. Streets are narrow and shaded, a blessing in summer.

There is a tram through the centre, buses and a metro on one line. Many visitors never need more than their feet.

Bikes are easy to rent and the city is flat, with dedicated lanes along many routes.

Good to know

  • Summer is extremely hot. Plan sightseeing for the morning, rest in the afternoon, and go out late.
  • Restaurants often close between lunch and dinner, and dinner starts late. Adjust to local hours.
  • Spring has two major festivals, Holy Week and the April Fair. Accommodation books up and prices rise, so book early if you want to go.
  • Many sights have free or reduced entry on certain days, but rules change. Check the official sites.
  • Shops and many small places close in the afternoon for a few hours. Plan errands for the morning.
  • Carry water and a hat in summer, and use shade whenever you can. Heat is the main thing that catches visitors out.

Where to stay in Seville

5 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Santa Cruz

The old Jewish quarter between the cathedral and the Alcazar -- whitewashed lanes, orange trees, and hidden plazas. The most romantic corner of Seville and the most crowded with it.

Triana

Across the Guadalquivir -- flamenco's home barrio, the ceramics workshops of Calle Alfareria, and riverside tapas with the best skyline view in town. Proudly separate and fiercely local.

El Arenal

The old port quarter by the bullring -- grand avenues, the Torre del Oro, and solid mid-range hotels between the cathedral and the river. Central, stately, and a touch quieter than Santa Cruz.

La Macarena

The northern barrio of basilicas, the old city walls, and the Feria market -- Seville without the polish, at noticeably lower prices. An easy walk or short bus ride from the centre.

Alameda de Hercules

The long plaza north of the centre -- the city's alternative heart with vermouth bars, indie venues, and a young local crowd. Seville's best nightlife away from the tourist circuit.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 15°C6°C 6
Feb 17°C7°C 5
Mar 20°C9°C 6
Apr 22°C11°C 7
May 26°C15°C 5
Jun 32°C19°C 1
Jul 35°C21°C 0
Aug 35°C22°C 0
Sep 30°C19°C 4
Oct 25°C15°C 7
Nov 19°C10°C 6
Dec 16°C8°C 7

What it costs

A typical day in Seville, per person, in pounds.

£47

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£108

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£117

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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