Destination guide

Sicily

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Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean, with a rich, layered history. Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans and Spaniards all left monuments, and the result is a landscape of temples, baroque towns, markets and volcano.

It is big, varied and best explored with a clear plan. Choose a region, such as the west, the south-east or the area around Etna, and give it time.

How many days: 7

A week allows you to see one or two regions properly. A shorter trip works if you base yourself in Palermo or Catania.

Distances are long and public transport is slow in the interior. A car is useful for visiting small towns and ancient sites.

What to do in Sicily

Explore Palermo
A busy, bold city with markets, Arab-Norman churches, baroque palaces and street food. It rewards time and curiosity.
Visit the Valley of the Temples
A group of well-preserved Greek temples near Agrigento, set among almond and olive trees. Go early or late to avoid the heat.
See Mount Etna
Europe's most active volcano, with trails and cable-car routes. Guided tours are the safest way to see the crater areas.
Walk through Syracuse and Ortigia
A historic island centre with a cathedral built into a Greek temple, and a large archaeological park on the mainland.
Visit Taormina
A hilltop town with an ancient Greek theatre and a view of Etna. It is popular and busy in summer.
See the baroque towns of the south-east
Noto, Modica and Ragusa were rebuilt after a great earthquake in a flowing baroque style. They are World Heritage sites.
Take a boat to the Aeolian Islands
A volcanic archipelago off the north coast, with Stromboli's glowing crater. Ferries leave from Milazzo and other ports.
Wander the Palermo markets
Ballarò and Capo are lively street markets with food stalls, spices and fresh fish. Try a snack at a stall.
Visit Cefalù
A seaside town with a medieval cathedral and a sandy beach, a short trip from Palermo. A good half day.
Visit the Mosaics at Piazza Armerina
A Roman villa in the interior with some of the finest mosaic floors in the world, including the famous bikini girls. Allow time for the drive.

What to eat and drink

Arancini
Fried rice balls filled with meat, cheese or peas. A classic street food, eaten at any time of day.
Pasta alla Norma
Pasta with tomato, aubergine and salted ricotta, from Catania. A Sicilian staple.
Cannoli and cassata
Sweet ricotta pastries. Best eaten fresh from a good bakery.
Granita and brioche
Crushed ice flavoured with fruit, coffee or almonds, eaten with a soft brioche for breakfast. A local summer ritual.
Fresh seafood
Swordfish, sardines and tuna are common. Look for markets and harbour restaurants.
Marsala and local wine
The island produces many wines. Ask for a local red from the Etna slopes or a sweet wine from the west.
Caponata
A sweet and sour aubergine dish with capers and olives. Served as a starter or side.

Getting around

A hire car is the best way to see the island, but expect narrow roads and spirited local driving. Parking in cities is difficult.

Trains link the major coastal cities but are slow, and buses cover the inland towns. Check timetables carefully.

Ferries and hydrofoils link Sicily to the smaller islands and the mainland.

Good to know

  • Summer is very hot, particularly inland. Spring and autumn are the best seasons.
  • Petty theft occurs in cities, especially Palermo and Catania. Keep valuables secure.
  • Many shops and restaurants close in the afternoon and on Sundays. Plan around it.
  • Etna's activity changes. Check official updates and follow guidance before going up.
  • The island is large, so do not try to see it all in a short trip.
  • Sicily has several distinct landscapes, from the green north coast to the dry inland hills. Each region has its own food and traditions.
  • Sicilian hospitality is generous, and meals are long. Allow plenty of time for lunch and dinner.

Where to stay in Sicily

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Catania

Baroque piazzas, Via Etnea, the Pescheria market and energetic restaurants make Catania eastern Sicily's most practical urban base beneath Mount Etna. It suits food, nightlife and short stays; traffic, noise and a rougher cityscape reduce the polished holiday feel.

Taormina

The Ancient Theatre, pedestrian Corso Umberto and spectacular Ionian views make hilltop Taormina Sicily's classic romantic resort, with Isola Bella below. It suits couples and first-time visitors; accommodation is expensive, summer crowds are intense and the beach requires a descent.

Ortigia & Syracuse

Baroque piazzas, ancient temples, waterfront restaurants and Castello Maniace fill Ortigia, while Syracuse adds the major Neapolis archaeological park nearby. It suits romantic and culture-heavy trips; parking is awkward, peak-season streets get crowded and proper sandy beaches lie outside the centre.

Noto & Val di Noto

Golden Baroque architecture, elegant Corso Vittorio Emanuele and easy access to Vendicari and south-eastern beaches make Noto a strong slow-travel base. It suits couples, food and culture trips; nightlife is limited and a car is useful for exploring the wider valley.

Mount Etna

Volcanic villages, vineyards and hiking routes surround Europe's highest active volcano, with Nicolosi and Linguaglossa useful bases for the slopes. It suits nature, wine and active trips; nightlife is sparse, a car is highly useful and there is no beach.

Cefalù

A Norman cathedral, medieval lanes and a broad sandy beach sit beneath La Rocca on Sicily's north coast. It suits couples and families wanting history and swimming together; summer prices and crowds rise sharply, and CTA is inconveniently far across the island.

What it costs

A typical day in Sicily, per person, in pounds.

£45

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£92

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£133

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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