Destination guide

Split

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Split is a living Roman palace. The emperor Diocletian built it on the Adriatic coast, and the old town grew up inside the walls. Today its lanes, squares and cafes sit within ancient stone.

It is lively, sunny and a very good base for the Dalmatian coast and its islands. The waterfront promenade fills with people each evening.

How many days: 2

Two days is enough for the palace, the waterfront and a viewpoint. Add more time if you plan to use Split as a base for island trips.

Ferries from the harbour reach islands such as Hvar, Brač and Vis. A day trip is possible, but an overnight stay is more relaxed.

What to do in Split

Explore Diocletian's Palace
A large complex of Roman walls, cellars, courtyards and a cathedral built from the emperor's mausoleum. People live and work inside it.
Walk the Riva
The palm-lined waterfront promenade is where the city meets in the evening. It is a good place to have a drink at sunset.
Climb Marjan Hill
A forested hill on the edge of town with trails, quiet beaches and views over the city and islands. A good way to escape the heat.
Visit the Cellars
The vaulted underground halls of the palace are remarkably intact. They are a cool stop on a warm day.
Swim at Bačvice
A sandy city beach popular with locals. People also play a local ball game called picigin in the shallow water.
Take a boat trip to an island
Day trips to islands and blue lagoons are a popular summer option. Check the sea conditions and the operator's reputation.
Visit the Peristyle
The ceremonial courtyard at the heart of the palace is the main gathering place. Take a coffee at a nearby cafe and watch life pass by.
Walk the Golden Gate
The northern entrance to the palace, with a statue of a medieval bishop. Rubbing the statue's toe is said to bring luck.

What to eat and drink

Fresh seafood
Grilled fish, squid and shellfish are on every menu. Order by the fish of the day and look for places that show the catch.
Dalmatian dishes
Look for slow-cooked beef and wine stews, and cured ham and sheep's cheese. Local food is simple and based on good ingredients.
Pastries and ice cream
Bakeries sell fresh pastries, and gelato is easy to find along the waterfront.
Croatian wine
The region produces good red and white wines, often served by the glass or carafe. Ask for a local recommendation.
Olive oil
The coast has a long tradition of olive growing. Many restaurants serve their own with bread.
Peka
Meat or octopus slowly baked under a bell-shaped lid with potatoes and vegetables. It usually needs to be ordered in advance, so ask at the start of the day.

Getting around

The old town is compact and car-free, so you walk everywhere. The bus station, train station and ferry port are all next to each other by the waterfront.

Buses connect Split with Dubrovnik, Zagreb and the coastal towns. Check timetables ahead in summer, since popular routes fill up.

Ferries and catamarans connect to the islands. Book ahead for peak dates and check the departure port before you go.

Good to know

  • Summer is hot, busy and the most expensive season. Late spring and early autumn have warm water and fewer crowds.
  • The palace stones become slippery when worn. Wear shoes with good grip, especially on wet days.
  • Croatia uses the euro. Cards are widely accepted, but some small places prefer cash.
  • Cruise ships and day-trippers bring crowds at midday. The old town is calmer early in the morning and in the evening.
  • The nearby town of Trogir and the Krka waterfalls are popular day trips from Split. Both are accessible by bus or organised tour.

Where to stay in Split

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Old Town

Split's Old Town is the most convenient base for first-time sightseeing, dining and ferry connections around Diocletian's Palace. Its central lanes are atmospheric but can be crowded and noisy at night, with limited vehicle access.

Veli Varoš

Veli Varoš offers historic stone streets immediately west of the centre while generally feeling more residential than the palace core. It suits travellers who still want to walk everywhere but prefer a little separation from the busiest nightlife.

Bačvice

Bačvice is a strong choice for travellers who want a sandy city beach while remaining within walking distance of the centre and ferry port. Its beachfront bars make it livelier than some residential areas, particularly in summer.

Meje

Meje suits couples and travellers seeking a quieter, greener base close to Marjan and the western waterfront. It feels more residential and exclusive than central Split, but has fewer restaurants and weaker public transport on the doorstep.

Žnjan

Žnjan is a modern coastal district suited to families, drivers and travellers who value beachfront space over historic atmosphere. It offers more room and easier road access than the centre, but the Old Town is no longer an effortless stroll.

Firule

Firule is a quieter residential coastal area that works well for families wanting beaches without the intensity of central Bačvice. The historic centre remains reasonably accessible, although visitors primarily interested in nightlife may find it subdued.

What it costs

A typical day in Split, per person, in pounds.

£62

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£116

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£183

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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