Destination guide

Stockholm

Fly into ARN. Aster compares live fares there across economy, premium economy, business and first - scored against your budget, sleep and legroom, with a straight answer on whether the upgrade is worth it.

Stockholm is spread across fourteen islands where a lake meets the Baltic Sea. Water is part of nearly every view, and the old town sits in the middle, a medieval maze of cobbled lanes.

It is elegant, calm and extremely well run. It also has a lively food and design scene, and a strong tradition of museums.

How many days: 3

Three days is a good length for the old town, a few museums and a boat trip. Two is enough for the highlights.

An archipelago trip is the best way to see the Swedish coast. Ferries run to islands of all sizes, and many are very quiet.

What to do in Stockholm

Wander Gamla Stan
The old town is a maze of lanes, squares and painted houses. It is the heart of the city and is best explored early or in the evening.
Visit the Vasa Museum
A seventeenth-century warship that sank on its first voyage, raised almost intact. It is one of the most remarkable museums in Europe.
Explore Djurgården
A green island with museums, parks and a funfair. Pleasant by bike or on foot.
Take a boat to the archipelago
Ferries reach thousands of islands in the Baltic. Pick one for a day trip, with a picnic and a swim.
See the Royal Palace
One of the largest palaces in Europe still used by the monarchy. The changing of the guard is a popular sight.
Walk in Södermalm
A hip district with independent shops, cafes and viewpoints over the city. A good place for an evening out.
Visit the ABBA museum or a music venue
Sweden's pop heritage is on display in museums, and live music is easy to find.
Walk through the Stadshuset
The city hall, a brick building on the waterfront, hosts the Nobel banquet. Its tower gives one of the best views over the islands.
Ride the metro as an art gallery
Many stations have been decorated with paintings, sculptures and mosaics. It is a cheap and unusual way to see art, and one ticket covers it all.
Visit the Fotografiska or a design museum
Stockholm is strong in photography and design. Check the official sites for the current exhibitions.

What to eat and drink

Swedish meatballs
Small meatballs served with creamy sauce, potatoes and lingonberry jam. The best-known Swedish dish.
Fika
A coffee and cake break, the national ritual. Cinnamon buns are the classic choice.
Herring
Pickled herring is traditional, especially at festive tables. Try it on rye bread.
Fresh seafood
Look for shrimp sandwiches and smoked fish at harbour-side cafes. Simple and good.
Crayfish and seasonal dishes
Late-summer crayfish parties are a Swedish tradition. Check what is in season.
Kanelbullar and cardamom buns
Soft spiced buns baked in every cafe and bakery. October has a day dedicated to the cinnamon bun.
Smörgåsbord and Swedish buffet
A table of cold fish, meat, cheeses and bread, eaten in rounds. A fun way to taste many dishes at once.

Getting around

The compact centre is easy to walk. The metro, trams, buses and ferries use one ticket system.

Cycling is popular, with many marked routes. Bikes can be rented in the summer.

The fast train from the airport reaches the centre in under 20 minutes.

Good to know

  • Sweden is expensive, though lunch menus offer good value on weekdays.
  • Most places are cashless, and cards are accepted almost everywhere. Carry little cash.
  • Winters are cold and dark. Summers have very long days.
  • Alcohol is sold in state-run shops, apart from weak beer. Bars add to the cost.
  • Tap water is excellent. Carry a bottle.
  • Summer evenings are long and light, and locals spend them by the water. Many people swim from the rocks and jetties around the city.
  • Most museums and sights offer a combined pass, which suits visitors who plan to see several.

Where to stay in Stockholm

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Gamla Stan

Stockholm's medieval core wraps around Stortorget and the Royal Palace, with cobbled lanes and waterfront views in every direction. It is the obvious first-timer base; the trade-off is tourist crowds, expensive rooms and relatively little everyday neighbourhood life.

Sodermalm

Independent shops, restaurants and bars spread around Nytorget and SoFo, while Monteliusvagen gives broad views across the old city. It suits travellers wanting nightlife and contemporary Stockholm; weekend noise and a slightly longer journey to northern sights are the compromise.

Vasastan

Mostly residential blocks around Odenplan and Vasaparken mix cafes, bakeries and neighbourhood restaurants with good metro access. It suits repeat visitors wanting a calmer, better-value base; the trade-off is having few of Stockholm's headline attractions on the doorstep.

Ostermalm

Grand streets around Strandvagen and Ostermalms Saluhall lead towards boutiques, polished restaurants and nightlife around Stureplan. It suits travellers wanting an upmarket central base; high hotel and dining prices are the obvious downside.

Norrmalm

Stockholm Central, Sergels Torg and the shopping streets around Drottninggatan make Norrmalm the city's most practical transport and commercial hub. It is excellent for short stays and business trips; the trade-off is less historic charm and a busier urban feel.

Djurgarden

Royal parkland surrounds the Vasa Museum, Skansen and long waterside walking paths on Stockholm's green museum island. It is excellent for families and slower stays; sparse nightlife and reliance on trams, ferries or walking make evenings elsewhere less convenient.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 0°C-3°C 8
Feb 1°C-4°C 8
Mar 4°C-2°C 8
Apr 9°C2°C 8
May 14°C6°C 9
Jun 18°C11°C 11
Jul 21°C14°C 11
Aug 20°C14°C 12
Sep 16°C10°C 8
Oct 9°C5°C 10
Nov 5°C2°C 10
Dec 2°C-2°C 10

What it costs

A typical day in Stockholm, per person, in pounds.

£65

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£118

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£195

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

Ready when you are

Tell Aster when you're thinking of going. It does the comparing; you keep the final word.