Spain

Tenerife

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Tenerife is the largest of the Canary Islands, with a volcanic landscape, warm weather for much of the year and a range of resorts, beaches and mountain villages. The towering peak of Mount Teide sits in the middle of the island.

The south is dry and sunny and has the main beach resorts. The north is greener and wetter and has older towns, banana plantations and a more local feel.

How many days: 7

A week allows time for beach days, the national park and a visit to the north. A long weekend is enough if you stick to one area.

A car makes the island much easier to explore. Public buses cover main routes but take time.

What to do in Tenerife

Visit Teide National Park
A vast volcanic landscape around the highest mountain in Spain. A cable car runs near the summit, and permits are needed for the final climb. Check the official site in advance.
Walk in the Anaga mountains
Ancient laurel forest covers the hills in the northeast. Trails lead to hamlets and coast, with misty views.
Explore La Laguna
A university town with a well-preserved colonial centre and a World Heritage listing. A good place for a relaxed lunch.
Visit Masca
A tiny mountain village above a dramatic gorge. The road is narrow and winding, so take care.
Go whale and dolphin watching
Boats leave from the southwest coast to see resident pilot whales and dolphins. Choose a responsible operator.
Spend time on a beach
The south has golden and black sand beaches. Check the flag signals before swimming, as currents can be strong.
Look at the stars
Tenerife has some of the clearest skies in Europe. Observatories and night-time tours let you see them.
Visit Garachico
A pretty north-coast town rebuilt after a volcanic eruption, with natural rock pools you can swim in. A good lunch stop.
Drive the south coast
Cliffs, small towns and quiet bays lie beyond the main resorts. Stop in small villages for a coffee.

What to eat and drink

Papas arrugadas
Small wrinkled potatoes boiled in salty water and served with spicy mojo sauce. A Canarian classic.
Fresh fish
Grilled fish is served at harbour-side restaurants. Ask for the catch of the day.
Gofio
A toasted grain flour used in bread, desserts and stews. A traditional food of the islands.
Local wines
The volcanic soil produces distinctive wines. Try some in the north of the island.
Barraquito
A layered coffee drink with condensed milk, liqueur and cinnamon. Popular with locals.
Bananas
The small Canarian banana is sweeter than the usual kind. Buy them from local markets.
Mojo sauces
Red and green sauces made from peppers, garlic and herbs. They are served with potatoes, fish and bread.

Getting around

A hire car is the easiest way to explore, although mountain roads are narrow and winding. Drive carefully.

Buses connect the main towns and resorts. A tram runs between the north towns of Santa Cruz and La Laguna.

There are two airports, in the north and south. Check which one is closer to your accommodation.

Good to know

  • Weather differs sharply between north and south, and the mountains are much cooler. Bring layers if you go up high.
  • The sun is strong all year, so bring sunscreen and a hat.
  • The island is part of Spain and uses the euro. Cards are widely accepted.
  • Respect the volcanic environment. Stay on marked trails and do not remove rocks.
  • The south of the island is the main resort area, with long beaches, golf and nightlife. The north is quieter and better for walking and local life.
  • The island has microclimates. It can be cloudy in the north while the south is sunny, so check the forecast for the area you are in.

Where to stay in Tenerife

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Costa Adeje

Playa del Duque, Fanabe and a long seafront promenade anchor Tenerife's polished southern resort district, with upscale hotels, restaurants and Siam Park nearby. It suits couples and families wanting easy comfort; prices are high and the atmosphere is firmly resort-focused.

Playa de las Americas

Beaches, surf schools, bars and clubs form Tenerife's busiest purpose-built entertainment resort beside Costa Adeje. It suits groups and travellers wanting nightlife within walking distance; late evenings, dense development and crowds make it one of the island's least peaceful bases.

Los Cristianos

A former fishing town now combines calm beaches, a busy harbour, ferries and a long promenade packed with restaurants. It suits families and travellers wanting excellent transport links; the centre is heavily developed and lacks the seclusion of Tenerife's smaller coastal towns.

El Medano

A laid-back town beside Montana Roja mixes a sandy urban beach, cafes and some of Europe's best windsurfing and kitesurfing conditions. It suits active travellers and longer stays; persistent wind can frustrate pure sunbathing and nightlife is modest.

Puerto de la Cruz

Historic streets, black-sand beaches and Lago Martianez give Tenerife's original resort town a greener, more Canarian feel than the south. It suits culture, restaurants and slower exploration; weather is cloudier and TFS is inconveniently far across the island.

Los Gigantes

Huge volcanic cliffs rise behind a marina, black-sand coves and whale-watching boats on Tenerife's quieter west coast. It suits couples and nature-led stays; steep streets, limited nightlife and a longer airport transfer make it less convenient than the southern resorts.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 8°C2°C 4
Feb 8°C2°C 5
Mar 10°C3°C 4
Apr 11°C4°C 3
May 14°C6°C 1
Jun 17°C9°C 0
Jul 20°C12°C 0
Aug 20°C12°C 1
Sep 18°C10°C 2
Oct 14°C8°C 6
Nov 11°C5°C 6
Dec 9°C4°C 7

What it costs

A typical day in Tenerife, per person, in pounds.

£55

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£92

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£118

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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