Destination guide

Verona

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Verona is a small, beautiful city in northern Italy, best known as the setting of Romeo and Juliet. Beyond the legend it has a Roman amphitheatre, a medieval centre, elegant piazzas and a river looping around the old town.

It is a relaxed place, with a compact centre that you can easily see in a day or two. It is also a good base for the wine country and Lake Garda.

How many days: 2

Two days covers the main sights and an opera or an evening in the square. Add a third for a lake or a wine trip.

Lake Garda is about 30 minutes away by train or bus. Valpolicella and Soave wine regions are close as well.

What to do in Verona

See the Arena
A Roman amphitheatre nearly two thousand years old, still used for opera in summer. Climb to the upper rows for a view over the city.
Wander Piazza delle Erbe
A market square lined with painted buildings and a fountain. A lively place for a coffee.
Walk to Juliet's balcony
A famous courtyard with a balcony linked to the legend, packed with visitors. Visit early, or just enjoy the story.
Climb the Lamberti Tower
A medieval tower with a view across the rooftops, reached by stairs or a lift.
Cross the Ponte Pietra
A Roman bridge over the Adige river, rebuilt after the Second World War. The view back to the old town is lovely.
Visit Castelvecchio
A medieval castle on the river with a good art museum. Its brick walls and bridge are very photogenic.
Take a day trip to Lake Garda
Pretty towns and lakeside paths are an easy trip away. Take a ferry across the water in summer.
Visit the Giusti Garden
A Renaissance garden with a cypress avenue, a maze and a view over the city. A peaceful retreat from the crowded centre.
Walk along the Adige river
The river wraps around the old centre, with paths below the walls. A pleasant route for an evening stroll.
Visit the Basilica of San Zeno
A fine Romanesque church with carved bronze doors and a peaceful cloister. It sits in a quieter district away from the crowds.

What to eat and drink

Risotto all'Amarone
Rice cooked in a rich red wine from the local Valpolicella area. A speciality of the region.
Pastissada de caval
A traditional horse stew. Not for everyone, but a classic of Verona's cooking.
Bigoli pasta
A thick spaghetti, served with duck or anchovy sauce. A local pasta shape.
Pandoro
The sweet star-shaped bread from Verona, eaten at Christmas. Bakeries sell it in the season.
Valpolicella and Soave wine
Local reds and whites are excellent. Ask for a recommendation.
Gelato in the piazza
Verona's ice cream is good, and eating a cone in the square at dusk is a ritual. Choose a shop that makes its own.
Local cheeses
Monte Veronese and other cheeses from the hills north of the city are sold in delis. A good picnic item.

Getting around

The historic centre is small and best seen on foot. Buses cover the outer districts.

Trains connect Verona with Venice, Milan and Bologna. It is a convenient stop between them.

The railway station is a short walk from the old town.

Good to know

  • The opera season in the Arena runs through summer, and tickets sell out. Book ahead.
  • Summers are hot and humid. Spring and autumn are better.
  • Juliet's house is crowded, and many visitors skip the interior. The courtyard is free.
  • Many restaurants close in the afternoon, and some are closed on Sundays. Check before you go.
  • Valentine's weekend is busy. Book accommodation well in advance.
  • The city is easily explored in a weekend, but is busy with day-trippers at midday. Mornings and evenings are the nicest times.
  • The city is a World Heritage site, and cars are restricted in the historic centre. Walking is by far the best way to see it.

Where to stay in Verona

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Centro Storico

Verona's historic centre contains the Arena, Piazza delle Erbe, Roman streets and a dense collection of restaurants and cafés. It is the strongest choice for first-time visitors and romantic stays, though accommodation is expensive during major events.

Città Antica

Città Antica covers the medieval core around Piazza delle Erbe and Juliet's House, with elegant lanes, historic buildings and traditional restaurants. It is exceptionally atmospheric and walkable, but heavily visited during the day.

Veronetta

Veronetta lies east of the Adige and has a more local, student-oriented feel with bars, restaurants and historic churches. It offers better value than the main centre while remaining within walking distance of major attractions.

San Zeno

San Zeno is a quieter historic neighbourhood west of the centre, centred on its celebrated basilica and surrounded by local restaurants and residential streets. It suits couples and families wanting atmosphere without the busiest tourist crowds.

Borgo Trento

Borgo Trento is an affluent residential district north of the river with broad streets, parks and easy access to central Verona. It is especially good for families and quieter stays, though nightlife and major sights are less concentrated.

Porta Nuova

The area between Verona Porta Nuova station and the historic centre offers practical hotels, transport links and better value than the old town. It is ideal for short stays and onward travel, though it lacks much of Verona's historic atmosphere.

What it costs

A typical day in Verona, per person, in pounds.

£108

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£178

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

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