Destination guide

Vienna

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Vienna is an imperial capital, and it still carries itself like one. Wide boulevards, grand palaces and opera houses sit alongside quiet courtyards and a coffee-house culture that treats lingering as a skill.

It is clean, easy to get around and very well run. The pace is unhurried, and the best days are often the ones with a museum in the morning, a long coffee in the afternoon and music in the evening.

How many days: 3

Three days is comfortable for the imperial sights, a museum or two and plenty of coffee. It is a good city for a slow trip.

A day trip along the Danube to the Wachau valley is a popular addition, with its vineyards and small towns. Check the train or boat timetable before you plan.

What to do in Vienna

Tour Schönbrunn Palace
The former summer residence of the Habsburgs, with a large formal garden. Book a timed ticket on the official site, and leave time for the grounds.
Walk the old centre
The area around St Stephen's Cathedral is a maze of lanes and squares. The Hofburg, the former imperial palace, sits nearby.
See the Belvedere
A baroque palace holding a major collection of Austrian art, including Klimt's The Kiss. The garden is a pleasant walk.
Spend an afternoon in a coffee house
Vienna's coffee houses are part of its identity. Take a table, order a coffee and a cake, and stay as long as you like.
Hear some music
Vienna is a music city, with concerts of every kind. The State Opera and many smaller venues offer performances. Book ahead for the popular ones.
Visit the Naschmarkt
A long market with food stalls and cafes, good for lunch and browsing.
Ride the Prater giant wheel
The Riesenrad, built in the late nineteenth century, is a slow and gentle ride with views across the city. The Prater park around it is good for a walk.
Explore the MuseumsQuartier
A large complex of museums, courtyards and cafes in former imperial stables. A good place to relax, even if you do not go into the galleries.

What to eat and drink

Wiener schnitzel
A thin, breaded veal cutlet, fried and served with a lemon wedge and potato salad. The city's best-known dish.
Sachertorte
A dense chocolate cake with apricot jam, served with whipped cream. A classic with coffee.
Apfelstrudel
Apple strudel in thin pastry, eaten warm. A staple of cafes.
Tafelspitz
Boiled beef served with horseradish and apple sauce. A traditional Viennese main.
Kaiserschmarrn
A fluffy shredded pancake with fruit compote and icing sugar. A popular dessert or even a main.
Heuriger wine taverns
Wine taverns on the edge of the city serving local wine and simple food. A good evening out in the warmer months.
Wiener Melange
Vienna's classic coffee, an espresso with steamed milk and a little foam. Often served with a glass of water on a small tray.
Sausage stands
Sausage stands, called Würstelstände, sell hot sausages with mustard and bread late into the evening. A very Viennese quick bite.

Getting around

Public transport is excellent. The U-Bahn, trams and buses cover the city, and the centre is also very walkable. Check the transport operator's site for the current ticket and pass options.

From the airport, a fast train and the suburban rail both run to the centre. Check which option suits where you are staying.

Trams along the Ringstrasse are a cheap way to see the main buildings without walking all of it.

Good to know

  • Most shops are closed on Sundays. Plan your shopping for other days, and rely on restaurants and cafes on Sundays.
  • In coffee houses you ask for the bill when you are ready. Nobody will bring it early.
  • Tipping is normally done by rounding up.
  • Austria uses the euro. Cards are widely accepted, though small places may prefer cash.
  • Christmas markets run through late autumn and winter, and are among the city's best-known events. Expect crowds and book accommodation early.

Where to stay in Vienna

5 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Innere Stadt

The first district inside the Ring -- Stephansdom, the Hofburg, and cafe culture at its grandest. Everything a Vienna first-timer wants is on foot; hotel prices are the city's highest.

Leopoldstadt

The island district between the Danube Canal and the Prater -- leafy Augarten, the Karmelitermarkt food scene, and quick U-Bahn hops into the centre. Relaxed, local, and good value for the location.

Neubau

The seventh -- independent boutiques, design shops, and the MuseumsQuartier on its doorstep. Vienna's creative neighbourhood, lively without being loud, with the city's best coffee-to-cocktail ratio.

Landstrasse

The third -- Belvedere Palace gardens, Hundertwasserhaus, and solid mid-range hotels on the direct CAT airport-train line. The practical pick: calm, well connected, ten minutes from everything.

Margareten & Wieden

The fourth and fifth south of the Naschmarkt -- market halls, natural-wine bars, and a younger, cheaper Vienna the tour groups skip. Slightly scruffier, noticeably better value.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 3°C-3°C 8
Feb 6°C-2°C 8
Mar 10°C1°C 10
Apr 16°C5°C 9
May 20°C10°C 12
Jun 24°C14°C 12
Jul 26°C16°C 12
Aug 26°C16°C 10
Sep 20°C12°C 10
Oct 15°C7°C 9
Nov 9°C3°C 9
Dec 4°C-2°C 9

What it costs

A typical day in Vienna, per person, in pounds.

£56

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£100

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£113

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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