Destination guide

Zurich

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Zurich is Switzerland's largest city, and one of its most liveable. It sits on a clear lake with the Alps on the horizon, and a compact old town runs along a river on either side. It is calm, clean and very well organised.

It is best known for banking, but visitors find a surprising amount to enjoy. There are lakeside swimming spots, good museums, a strong food scene and some of the easiest day trips in Europe.

How many days: 2

Two days covers the old town, the lake and a museum. A third day lets you take a train into the mountains.

Switzerland's rail network makes day trips simple. Lucerne, the Rhine Falls and several mountain viewpoints are all within an hour or two.

What to do in Zurich

Walk through the old town
Narrow lanes, small squares and medieval guild houses fill both banks of the river Limmat. The streets are best explored on foot.
Walk along the lake
A promenade runs along the shore, with benches, parks and views of the Alps on clear days. Boats cross the lake in summer.
Swim in the river or lake
In summer, locals swim in the Limmat and at lakeside baths. It is a Zurich ritual, and the water is clean.
Visit the Kunsthaus
The city's main art museum has a strong collection from the Middle Ages to modern times. A good choice for a wet day.
See the Grossmünster
A Romanesque church with twin towers. Climb one for a view of the rooftops and the lake.
Take a day trip to the mountains
Trains and cable cars reach high viewpoints in one to two hours. Check the weather before you go, as clouds can hide the view.
Visit the Rhine Falls
Europe's largest waterfall by volume, a short train ride away. Walkways let you get close to the water.
Visit Lindenhof
A small hilltop square in the old town with a view over the river and rooftops. Locals come here to play chess and rest.

What to eat and drink

Cheese fondue and raclette
Melted cheese dishes are Swiss classics, eaten mostly in cooler months. They are filling and best shared.
Zürcher Geschnetzeltes
Sliced veal in a creamy mushroom sauce, usually served with rösti. The city's best-known dish.
Swiss chocolate
Shops and cafes sell high-quality chocolate, and the city has a long confectionery tradition. Buy a few small pieces to try.
Bakeries and Zopf bread
A braided white bread eaten at weekends. A good breakfast with butter and jam.
Local wine
Swiss wines are rarely exported, so they are worth trying while you are here. Ask for a local white or red.
Birchermüesli
A cold oat dish with apple, yoghurt and nuts, invented in Zurich as a health food. It is still a breakfast staple.

Getting around

The city centre is compact and easy to walk. Trams and buses are punctual, and one ticket system covers the whole city.

Trains from the central station link Zurich to the rest of Switzerland and the main European cities. They are fast and reliable.

The airport is just outside the city and connected by a frequent train. The journey takes under 15 minutes.

Good to know

  • Switzerland is expensive. Bakeries, supermarkets and lunch menus are a cheaper way to eat well.
  • The currency is the Swiss franc, not the euro. Cards are widely accepted.
  • Shops close early on Saturdays and are mostly closed on Sundays. Plan in advance.
  • Tap water is excellent, and fountains around the city provide free drinking water. Carry a bottle.
  • Mountains are often cloudy, so be flexible. Pick a clear day for the high viewpoints.
  • Tram lines are numbered and run frequently, and the stops show live departure boards. A day ticket often pays for itself after a few rides.

Where to stay in Zurich

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Old Town & Niederdorf

Medieval lanes, Grossmunster, Fraumunster and the Limmat define Zurich's compact historic core, with Niederdorf adding restaurants and bars after dark. It suits first-time visitors and short breaks; central hotels are expensive and nightlife brings late noise.

Langstrasse

International restaurants, late bars and clubs make this former red-light district Zurich's most concentrated nightlife neighbourhood. It suits younger city breaks and travellers prioritising food and evenings out; street noise, crowds and limited tranquillity are unavoidable.

Zurich-West

Converted factories, Viadukt arches, Prime Tower and creative venues have transformed this former industrial district into a restaurant, design and nightlife hub. It suits modern city breaks and business travellers; traditional Zurich charm and lake access are limited.

Seefeld

Elegant residential streets run beside the lake promenade, Utoquai lido, Zurichhorn and restaurants south of the Opera House. It suits couples and families wanting central Zurich with space to unwind; accommodation is expensive and nightlife is subdued.

Enge

Enge combines lakeside swimming, leafy parks, Museum Rietberg and quick access to Bahnhofstrasse from a polished residential-business district. It suits families and work trips wanting calm near the centre; nightlife is limited and prices remain firmly Zurich-level.

Europaallee & Hauptbahnhof

Modern shops, restaurants and hotels sit immediately beside Zurich Hauptbahnhof, putting the entire transport network and Old Town within easy reach. It suits business and short stays above all; the new-build setting lacks romance and offers little peace or lakeside atmosphere.

What it costs

A typical day in Zurich, per person, in pounds.

£105

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£209

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£248

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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