Portugal

Madeira

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Madeira is a Portuguese island in the Atlantic, closer to Africa than to Lisbon. It is a mountainous, green island with a mild climate, dramatic cliffs, flower-filled gardens and a network of old irrigation channels that double as walking trails.

It suits walkers and people who like landscapes. It is also known for fortified wine, its capital Funchal and an easy, friendly pace.

How many days: 5

Five days gives you time for hikes, Funchal and a drive around the island. A long weekend works for a quick taste.

Weather varies between the sunny south coast and the wetter north. Mountain mists can arrive suddenly.

What to do in Madeira

Walk a levada
Levadas are narrow channels that carry water across the mountains, with footpaths alongside. Some are easy and flat, while others have steep drops. Check the difficulty first.
Hike from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo
A famous mountain walk between two of the highest peaks. It is spectacular, but steep and tiring, and conditions change quickly.
Explore Funchal
The capital has an old town with painted doors, a covered market and a seafront. A cable car climbs the hill above it.
Ride the toboggan
Wicker sledges are steered down a steep road by two men in white. A traditional, slightly touristy ride.
Visit the gardens
Mild weather makes Madeira famous for its gardens, with orchids, tropical plants and flowers. Several botanical gardens are open to visitors.
Drive to Cabo Girão
A high sea cliff with a glass-floored viewing platform. A good stop on a south-coast drive.
Swim in the natural pools at Porto Moniz
Volcanic rock pools filled by the sea on the north-west coast. A good place to swim in calm conditions.
Visit the Monte Palace gardens
Hilltop gardens above Funchal with ponds, tiles and tropical plants. A cable car or a bus runs up from the town.
Watch whales and dolphins
Boats leave from the south coast for trips to see dolphins and sometimes whales. Choose a responsible operator.

What to eat and drink

Espetada
Chunks of beef grilled on a bay-leaf skewer. Typically served hanging at the table.
Fresh fish
Black scabbardfish with banana is a famous local dish. Tuna and limpets are also common.
Bolo do caco
A round, flat bread served with garlic butter. A local staple.
Madeira wine
A fortified wine that ranges from dry to sweet. Try a tasting at a local wine lodge.
Poncha
A traditional drink made with sugar-cane spirit, honey and lemon. Strong, and often served in small bars.
Tropical fruit
Bananas, passion fruit and custard apples are common in markets. Try them fresh.
Bolo de mel
A dark, spiced cake sweetened with sugar-cane honey, traditionally eaten around Christmas. Sold in bakeries all year.

Getting around

A hire car is the easiest way to see the island, though the mountain roads are steep and narrow. Many visitors prefer a guide.

Buses link the main towns, but they are slow. Organised tours are a good alternative.

Tunnels and bridges have made the island easier to cross. Check the route before you set off.

Good to know

  • Weather changes quickly, especially in the mountains. Take layers and a waterproof.
  • Some levada paths have steep drops and require care. Check official trail conditions.
  • Wildfire can affect parts of the island in summer. Check the official updates.
  • Madeira uses the euro, and cards are widely accepted.
  • The airport is known for its challenging landing, and flights can be delayed by wind. Allow flexibility in your plans.
  • Madeira is known for its flower festival in spring and its fireworks on New Year's Eve. Both bring crowds, so book early.
  • Hiking boots or trainers with good grip are essential on levadas and mountain paths, as stones can be wet.

Where to stay in Madeira

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Funchal & Lido

Madeira's capital combines the Old Town, marina, restaurants and nightlife with the Lido's ocean pools and long seafront promenade. It is the easiest all-round base; traffic, urban density and limited sandy beach space make it less secluded than the island's villages.

Ponta do Sol

A compact historic village sits between steep banana-covered slopes and the Atlantic on Madeira's notably sunny south-west coast. It suits couples and slower stays; nightlife is minimal, accommodation choice is limited and a car makes island exploration considerably easier.

Calheta

A sheltered golden-sand beach, marina and warm south-west climate make Calheta one of Madeira's easiest conventional beach bases, with levadas nearby. It suits families and relaxed couples; the town is spread out and evenings are much quieter than Funchal.

Porto Moniz

Volcanic natural swimming pools, dramatic cliffs and access to Laurissilva landscapes define this remote north-western town. It suits nature and road-trip stays; conventional beaches and nightlife are scarce, and the long winding journey from FNC makes it a poor airport base.

Machico

Madeira's former capital has a sheltered sandy beach, waterfront promenade and local restaurants only a short drive from the airport. It suits families, short stays and good-value beach breaks; nightlife is limited and Funchal offers far more dining and entertainment.

Santana

Traditional thatched houses, Laurissilva forest and mountain trails make Santana one of Madeira's strongest bases for hiking and rural culture. It suits active travellers seeking quiet; beaches, nightlife and convenient airport transfers are all weak compared with the south coast.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 16°C13°C 8
Feb 16°C13°C 8
Mar 17°C13°C 10
Apr 18°C14°C 9
May 20°C15°C 8
Jun 22°C18°C 4
Jul 24°C19°C 2
Aug 25°C20°C 3
Sep 24°C20°C 8
Oct 22°C18°C 12
Nov 19°C16°C 11
Dec 17°C14°C 11

What it costs

A typical day in Madeira, per person, in pounds.

£53

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£67

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£124

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

Ready when you are

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