France

Nice

Fly into NCE. Aster compares live fares there across economy, premium economy, business and first - scored against your budget, sleep and legroom, with a straight answer on whether the upgrade is worth it.

Nice is the main city of the French Riviera, with a long pebble beach, a pastel-coloured old town and mountains rising behind the coast. It feels relaxed and Mediterranean, with a strong Italian influence.

It works as a destination on its own and as a base for the rest of the coast. Trains and buses reach nearby towns quickly.

How many days: 3

Three days covers the old town, the seafront, a museum or two and a nearby village or town. Two is enough for a quick trip.

Day trips to Monaco, Antibes, Èze and Menton are easy by train or bus. Pick one or two and keep time for the beach.

What to do in Nice

Walk the Promenade des Anglais
A long seafront walk with the blue sea on one side and grand buildings on the other. Locals cycle, skate and stroll along it.
Explore Vieux Nice
The old town has narrow lanes, painted houses, small squares and a daily market. It is best wandered without a plan.
Climb Castle Hill
A park on a rocky hill at the end of the bay with a waterfall and a view over the city. Take the steps or the lift.
Visit the Cours Saleya market
A flower, fruit and vegetable market in the old town. A good place for breakfast and photographs.
Spend time on the beach
Nice's beach is made of pebbles, so bring sandals. Private beach clubs rent loungers, and public sections are free.
Take a day trip
The coast has beautiful villages and towns, such as Èze, Villefranche and Antibes. All are quick to reach from Nice.
See a museum
Nice has museums devoted to Matisse and Chagall, who both worked here. Check the official sites before you plan a visit.
Visit the Russian Cathedral
An unexpected onion-domed church in the middle of the city, built for the Russian community in the early twentieth century. Check visiting arrangements first.
Take the coastal train to Menton
A scenic journey along the Riviera to a lemon-scented town near the Italian border. It is a good day out in any season.

What to eat and drink

Salade niçoise
The local salad with tuna, eggs, olives, tomatoes and anchovies. Traditionally made without cooked vegetables.
Socca
A thin chickpea pancake cooked in a hot oven and eaten with pepper. A cheap and typical local snack.
Pissaladière
A bread base topped with caramelised onions, anchovies and olives. Often sold in slices by bakeries.
Ratatouille and stuffed vegetables
Dishes built on summer vegetables, olive oil and herbs. Typical of the region.
Rosé wine
Provence rosé is a local favourite. It is served chilled with lunch or in the evening.
Local olive oil and olives
Nice olives and oil are famous across France. Shops in the old town sell them in small sealed bottles, which make good gifts.

Getting around

The centre of Nice is compact and easy to walk. Trams and buses cover the rest, and one ticket works on both.

Regional trains run along the coast and reach Monaco, Cannes and the Italian border. They are quick, scenic and cheap.

Bikes and e-scooters can be rented for the waterfront.

Good to know

  • The Riviera is expensive in summer, particularly around July and August. Spring and early autumn are warm, calmer and cheaper.
  • Pebble beaches can be hard on bare feet. Water shoes help.
  • Pickpockets work around the station and busy areas. Keep valuables secure.
  • Restaurants close at different times, and some close in the afternoon and one day a week. Check in advance.
  • Nice is a good place to be a little slow. Lunch can easily last two hours, and the best light for walking is in the early morning and late afternoon.
  • The pace is relaxed, but the city gets very busy during the carnival in February. Book accommodation early if you plan to go.

Where to stay in Nice

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Vieux Nice

Ochre lanes around Cours Saleya, Place Rossetti and the foot of Castle Hill put markets, restaurants and the seafront together. It is the obvious first-time base; narrow streets, heavy visitor traffic and late-night noise make peace and space harder to find.

Port Lympia

Colourful harbour buildings, yachts and fishing boats surround Port Lympia, with restaurants and the bars of Place du Pin and Rue Bonaparte close by. It suits food and nightlife-led stays; evenings can be noisy and the main beach frontage lies west of Castle Hill.

Libération

Daily life centres on the Marché de la Libération and converted Gare du Sud, surrounded by bakeries, cafés and residential streets. It is a strong value pick with excellent tram links; the beach and Old Town require a ride or a longer walk.

Carré d'Or

Belle Époque streets between Place Masséna and the Promenade are lined with boutiques, restaurants and polished hotels, with the beach minutes away. It suits travellers wanting an upmarket, central base; accommodation and dining prices are among the city's highest.

Cimiez

Elegant hillside streets surround Roman ruins, the Matisse Museum and olive-filled Jardin des Arènes, with the Monastery gardens nearby. It suits families and quiet cultural stays; nightlife is minimal and buses replace the centre's easy tram-and-walk convenience.

Promenade des Anglais

Nice's long seafront runs beside the Baie des Anges, pebble beaches and Belle Époque landmarks including the Negresco. It suits beach-focused couples and short summer stays; sea-view rooms command a premium and traffic makes the waterfront less peaceful than it looks.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 12°C5°C 7
Feb 12°C5°C 8
Mar 14°C7°C 8
Apr 17°C9°C 10
May 20°C13°C 10
Jun 24°C18°C 8
Jul 27°C20°C 6
Aug 27°C21°C 6
Sep 24°C17°C 8
Oct 19°C14°C 9
Nov 15°C10°C 10
Dec 12°C6°C 8

What it costs

A typical day in Nice, per person, in pounds.

£61

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£129

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£165

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

Ready when you are

Tell Aster when you're thinking of going. It does the comparing; you keep the final word.