France

Paris

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Paris is a city best taken at walking pace. The famous sights are close together, the river gives you an easy way to orient yourself, and some of the best hours come from doing very little: a long coffee on a terrace, a wander through a park, a slow loop of a neighbourhood you picked at random.

It is bigger and busier than it looks on a map, and the big attractions draw big crowds. A trip works best when you pick a few things you really want to see, book those ahead, and leave the rest of the day loose.

How many days: 3 to 4

Three days covers the essentials without a sprint: one for the Louvre and the river, one for Montmartre and the Marais, and one for a museum or a park depending on your taste. If you want to see the main sights properly and still rest, aim for four.

A day trip to Versailles is the usual addition. It is reachable by train from the city, and it is a full day once you add the gardens.

What to do in Paris

Spend a morning at the Louvre
It is enormous and tiring if you try to see it all. Choose a wing or a theme, book a timed entry on the official site, and accept that you will miss most of it.
See the Eiffel Tower from several angles
Going up is a queue-heavy experience, so book ahead if you want to. Many people prefer the view of it from across the river, or from Montmartre or a park, where you can see the whole shape.
Walk along the Seine
The riverbanks are a World Heritage area and the best free way to see the city. The bridges, the bookstalls and the island at the centre all reward a slow stroll.
Climb to Montmartre
The hilltop village around Sacré-Cœur has steep streets, small squares and wide views. It is busy by day, so early morning or evening is calmer.
Explore the Marais
A district of old streets, small museums and independent shops, with one of the city's most elegant squares. It is good for walking and for lunch.
Pick a smaller museum
The Musée d'Orsay, in a former railway station, is manageable in a morning and holds a major collection of Impressionist work. Smaller galleries give you the experience without the crowds.

What to eat and drink

Croissants and bakery bread
Breakfast is a croissant or a pain au chocolat from a neighbourhood bakery. Look for a place with a short queue of locals.
Bistro classics
Steak frites, duck confit, onion soup and roast chicken are the staples. A short menu of dishes that change by the day is usually a good sign.
Cheese
France makes hundreds of cheeses, and a good cheese shop will let you taste and explain. A picnic of cheese, bread and fruit is one of the best meals you can have.
Crêpes
Thin pancakes, sweet or savoury, sold from street stands and in sit-down creperies. Buckwheat galettes are the savoury version.
Café culture
Coffee is small and strong. Sitting at a terrace table costs a little more than standing at the counter, and nobody will rush you.
Lunch menus
Many restaurants offer a fixed lunch formula. It is usually the best way to eat well without spending too much.

Getting around

The metro is the quickest way to cross the city, and stations are never far apart. Check the transport operator's website for the current ticket and pass options, as these change from time to time.

Two airports serve the city. The suburban railway RER B connects Charles de Gaulle to the centre, and there are also buses and taxis. Check which option suits your accommodation before you land.

The central districts are very walkable, and a walk between two sights often shows you more than the metro would. Taxis and ride-hailing apps are common for late nights.

Good to know

  • A greeting matters. Start any interaction with 'Bonjour' before asking for anything, and it usually goes better.
  • Many museums close one day a week, often Monday or Tuesday. Check the official site before you plan.
  • Pickpockets work the metro, the main sights and the Eiffel Tower area. Keep valuables in a zipped bag in front of you.
  • Service is included in restaurant bills, so tipping is optional and usually a small round-up.

Where to stay in Paris

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Le Marais

Historic and trendy in equal measure -- boutiques, one of the strongest restaurant scenes in the city, and central sightseeing access, with a livelier but not club-heavy evening atmosphere.

Saint-Germain-des-Prés

The classic Left Bank base -- cafes, bookshops and an unmistakably romantic atmosphere, close to Notre-Dame and the Louvre, at one of the higher price points in the city.

Montmartre

The hilltop artists' village around Sacré-Cœur -- the strongest sightseeing and atmosphere of any area here, with some nightlife nearby in Pigalle, but hillier and less directly served by the Metro than the areas below.

Champs-Élysées

The iconic avenue -- major sightseeing and luxury shopping side by side, well connected, but busy, touristy and consistently expensive.

Latin Quarter

The historic student quarter -- lively cafes and bars, strong sightseeing (Notre-Dame, the Panthéon) and better value than the Left Bank's more upscale corners.

La Défense

Paris's modern business district -- office towers and excellent RER access, quiet in the evenings and at weekends, but with little sightseeing or restaurant variety of its own.

What it costs

A typical day in Paris, per person, in pounds.

£61

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£141

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£190

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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