Japan

Osaka

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Osaka is Japan's food capital, a loud, friendly and unpretentious city where eating is the main sport. Neon canals, a grand castle, covered shopping arcades and some of the best street food in the country sit within a short train ride of each other.

People here are famously warm and funny. It makes a good base for Kyoto, Nara and Himeji too, with fast trains and plenty to do in the evenings.

How many days: 3

Three days covers the castle, the food districts, a museum and an evening of bar-hopping. Add a day for Nara or Kyoto if you have time.

Spend afternoons exploring the districts and keep the evenings for eating, which is when the city is at its best.

What to do in Osaka

See Osaka Castle
A rebuilt castle on a stone base, surrounded by a moat and a large park. The grounds are pleasant to walk, and the tower has a museum inside.
Walk through Dotonbori
A neon-lit canal street lined with giant signs and food stalls. Go after dark, and take the photo at the famous sign.
Explore Shinsekai
A retro district with an old tower, arcades and fried-skewer restaurants. A little rough and very local.
Browse the Kuromon market
A covered market selling seafood, fruit and snacks. Eat as you walk, and follow local etiquette.
Visit the aquarium
One of the largest aquariums in the world, built around a huge central tank. Popular, so go early.
Climb an observation deck
Several towers look over the city. Go at dusk to see it change from day to night.
Shop in Namba and Umeda
Two big shopping districts with department stores, underground malls and electronics shops.
Take a day trip to Nara or Himeji
Nara has free-roaming deer and a giant Buddha. Himeji has Japan's finest original castle.
Visit Sumiyoshi Taisha
One of Japan's oldest shrines, with an arched red bridge and a calm garden. A peaceful break from the city.
Soak in a public bath
Japanese bathhouses, called sento or onsen, are a local ritual. Wash first, and follow the posted rules.
Browse a themed shopping street
Covered arcades such as Shinsaibashi run for blocks, with shops, snacks and cafes. Good for a rainy day.

What to eat and drink

Takoyaki
Round batter balls with octopus inside, topped with sauce and bonito flakes. Careful, they are very hot.
Okonomiyaki
A savoury pancake with cabbage and meat or seafood, cooked on a griddle. Often cooked at your table.
Kushikatsu
Deep-fried skewers dipped in sauce. Do not double-dip, as a sign will remind you.
Ramen and udon
Hearty noodle bowls are everywhere, and each shop has its own style.
Sushi
Osaka has a long sushi tradition, with pressed styles and fresh fish.
Sweets and street snacks
Look for fluffy pancakes, cream puffs and crepes in the covered arcades.
Yakiniku
Grilled beef cooked at your table, a favourite for groups.

Getting around

The subway, trains and buses are efficient, and a contactless transport card works on most. Stations in the centre are well signed in English.

The centre is compact, and many sights are walkable from the main stations.

Trains to Kyoto, Nara and Kobe are quick and frequent.

Good to know

  • Summers are hot and humid, and typhoon season runs in early autumn. Check the forecast.
  • Stand on the right on escalators in Osaka, which is the opposite of Tokyo.
  • Many small restaurants take cash only, so keep some on you.
  • Eating while walking is frowned upon in many places. Eat at the stall or nearby.
  • Large bags can be stored in station lockers. A small backpack is easier on crowded trains.
  • Osaka is a good base for several day trips. Buy tickets at the station machines, which have English options.
  • Evenings are lively and safe, and many places stay open late.
  • Keep a small bag for rubbish and a pack of tissues, as public bins and paper towels are scarce.

Where to stay in Osaka

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Namba

Namba is one of Osaka's main entertainment districts, placing Dotonbori, endless restaurants, shopping arcades and nightlife within walking distance. It is ideal for first-time visitors who want Osaka at its most energetic, although the crowds and neon-heavy streets are rarely relaxing.

Umeda

Umeda is Osaka's northern commercial centre around Osaka and Umeda stations, with enormous shopping complexes, restaurants, offices and excellent regional rail connections. It is particularly convenient for business and day trips, though it feels more corporate and less atmospheric than Namba.

Shinsaibashi

Shinsaibashi centres on one of Osaka's best-known shopping streets and sits immediately north of Dotonbori and Namba. It suits travellers prioritising shopping, restaurants and nightlife while remaining highly walkable, but accommodation can be expensive for the room size.

Tennoji

Tennoji combines major transport links with Abeno Harukas, Tennoji Park, museums and quick access to the retro streets of Shinsekai. It offers better value and a more local feel than Namba, though some visitors may find it less polished in places.

Osaka Castle

The Osaka Castle area offers parkland, riverside walks and convenient access to one of the city's defining landmarks. It is attractive for families and travellers seeking more space and quieter evenings, but dining and nightlife are much thinner than around Namba or Umeda.

Shinsekai

Shinsekai is a colourful old-school entertainment district beneath Tsutenkaku Tower, known for kushikatsu restaurants, retro signs and a distinctly local atmosphere. It is memorable and inexpensive, but it is rougher around the edges and less suited to travellers wanting an upscale base.

What it costs

A typical day in Osaka, per person, in pounds.

£33

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£78

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£173

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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