Japan

Tokyo

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Tokyo is the biggest city in the world, and one of the most fascinating. Neon towers and quiet shrines, ultra-modern transport and tiny neighbourhood bars all sit side by side. It is polite, safe, spotlessly clean and endlessly surprising.

It is best seen as a collection of districts, each with its own personality. Pick a few, and explore them on foot.

How many days: 5

Five days is a good start, with time for the major districts, a museum and a day trip. A shorter stay works if you pick areas carefully.

A day trip to Nikko, Kamakura or Mount Fuji is popular. Trains make it simple.

What to do in Tokyo

Walk through Shibuya and its crossing
The famous scramble crossing is a spectacle. Watch it from a cafe or a high viewpoint.
Visit Senso-ji in Asakusa
Tokyo's oldest temple, reached through a gate and a lane of souvenir stalls. Go early to avoid the crowds.
See Meiji Shrine
A quiet forested shrine next to a busy district. A good place for a calm morning walk.
Explore Shinjuku
Skyscrapers, department stores and neon alleys. It is busy and bright, and best in the evening.
Wander Harajuku and Omotesando
A mix of youth fashion and elegant architecture. A good place for browsing and people-watching.
Visit a fish market
The outer market in Toyosu and Tsukiji has stalls selling seafood and snacks. Go in the morning.
Enjoy a park
Shinjuku Gyoen and Ueno Park are beautiful places to rest. In spring they are covered in cherry blossom.
Take a day trip to Kamakura
A coastal town with a giant bronze Buddha and temples. A good escape from the city.
Visit a digital art space
Tokyo has several immersive digital art spaces. Book tickets ahead on the official sites, as slots fill quickly.
Browse Akihabara
The electronics and anime district has multi-storey shops, arcades and themed cafes. Fun even if you do not buy anything.

What to eat and drink

Sushi and sashimi
Fresh fish served with rice. Try it at a counter, or from a conveyor belt for a casual meal.
Ramen
Noodles in rich broth, in many styles. Small shops often use ticket machines at the door.
Tempura and tonkatsu
Light fried vegetables and seafood, and breaded pork cutlet. Both are served with rice and miso soup.
Izakaya food
Small shared plates and drinks in a casual pub. A good place for an evening.
Convenience store snacks
Japanese convenience stores sell high-quality sandwiches, rice balls and desserts. Cheap and good.
Matcha and wagashi
Green tea and traditional sweets. A calm break in a tea house.
Yakitori
Skewered grilled chicken, sold in tiny bars under railway arches. Order a few skewers and a drink.

Getting around

The train and subway network is vast, punctual and clean. A rechargeable card works on almost all lines.

Maps apps give clear routes and platform numbers. Stations are large, so allow time to find your exit.

Taxis are safe and clean, and doors open automatically. Do not tip.

Good to know

  • Tipping is not expected and can cause confusion. Politeness and quiet on trains are valued.
  • Many small restaurants and shops only take cash, although cards are becoming common. Carry some yen.
  • Spring has cherry blossom and autumn has colourful leaves. Both are beautiful, and very busy.
  • Summer is hot and humid, and winter is cool and dry. Rain falls in June.
  • Check the entry requirements for your nationality before you travel. Rules change, so use the official government site.
  • Trash cans are rare, so carry a small bag for your rubbish. Eating while walking is considered impolite in many places.
  • Stations have many exits, and the right one can save a long walk. Check exit numbers on your map app before you come up.

Where to stay in Tokyo

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Shinjuku

Tokyo's largest transport hub and a genuinely all-purpose base -- the widest restaurant choice, easy access across almost the entire city, and a mix of business towers, department stores and nightlife, which makes it a strong pick for a first visit.

Shibuya

Tokyo's best-known youth-culture and nightlife district -- the scramble crossing, dense bars and izakaya, and excellent train access, though a busier and less restful base than most other areas here.

Ginza

Tokyo's most polished shopping and dining district -- upmarket, quieter in the evenings than Shinjuku or Shibuya, and well placed for business, but consistently the most expensive area on this list.

Asakusa

Tokyo's most traditional district -- Senso-ji temple and the surrounding old town, the strongest sightseeing and cultural interest of any area here, quieter at night, and better value, though with fewer restaurants and weaker transport links than the bigger hubs.

Roppongi

A nightlife and entertainment district popular with an international crowd, with some notable art museums nearby, but limited daytime sightseeing and one of the least family-suited areas on this list.

Akihabara

Tokyo's electronics and anime/manga district -- a strong pick for that specific interest, well connected by train, but limited in restaurants, romance or family appeal relative to the rest of the city.

What it costs

A typical day in Tokyo, per person, in pounds.

£105

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

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