Italy

Cortina d'Ampezzo

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Cortina d'Ampezzo is a mountain town in Italy's Dolomites, surrounded by distinctive limestone peaks and dramatic valleys. You come for skiing, hiking, climbing and some of the most recognisable scenery in the Italian Alps. The town combines alpine traditions with Italian cafés, shops and a relaxed approach to mountain life.

Cortina is particularly rewarding if you enjoy the landscape as much as the activities. Its mountain areas are spread across different locations, so planning matters. In summer, walking routes and scenic roads open up the surrounding mountains. In winter, skiing takes centre stage, but the town remains enjoyable for non-skiers.

How many days: 5

Five days gives you time to experience Cortina properly. Spend one day exploring the town, then devote two or three days to skiing or hiking in different mountain areas. Keep another day for a major scenic excursion such as the Tre Cime area, subject to seasonal access and conditions.

In summer, allow extra time if you want longer hikes or via ferrata routes. The Dolomites reward an unhurried approach, particularly when weather changes. A shorter visit works if you concentrate on one or two mountain areas rather than attempting to see every famous viewpoint.

What to do in Cortina d'Ampezzo

Explore central Cortina
Walk along Corso Italia and the surrounding streets, enjoying mountain views between the buildings. The centre is a pleasant place for cafés and relaxed evening strolls.
Ski the Tofane slopes
Explore the mountain terrain beneath the Tofane peaks. Choose marked pistes appropriate to your level, as the area includes demanding sections.
Visit Faloria
Take mountain transport towards the Faloria area for panoramic views and seasonal outdoor activities. It provides a different perspective on Cortina's surrounding peaks.
Explore the Cinque Torri
Visit this distinctive group of rock towers for walking, climbing scenery and historic mountain landscapes. Follow marked routes and respect any access restrictions.
Hike around Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Experience the famous three peaks on an appropriate marked walking route. Start early when practical and check access, weather and trail conditions.
Visit Lago di Misurina
Spend time beside this mountain lake surrounded by dramatic peaks. It makes a scenic excursion and a gentler alternative to a long hike.
Explore the Lagazuoi area
Discover high mountain views and historic sites associated with the First World War. Some routes involve exposure or difficult terrain, so choose carefully.
Try a guided via ferrata
Experience protected climbing routes with a qualified guide and appropriate safety equipment. The Dolomites are famous for these routes, but they are not ordinary walking trails.
Walk in the Ampezzo Dolomites
Choose a marked trail through forests, meadows or higher mountain scenery. There are options for different fitness levels, depending on conditions.
Visit a mountain refuge
Stop at an accessible rifugio for a meal and mountain views during a walk or ski day. Check seasonal operations before planning your route around it.

What to eat and drink

Try casunziei
Order traditional filled pasta associated with the Ampezzo area, often prepared with beetroot. It is a distinctive local alternative to more familiar Italian pasta dishes.
Taste canederli
Enjoy hearty bread dumplings served in broth or with a savoury accompaniment. They reflect the area's alpine culinary influences.
Order polenta with mushrooms
Try creamy or firm polenta with mountain mushrooms. It is simple, comforting food after a day outdoors.
Have lunch in a rifugio
Eat a warm mountain meal while taking in the surrounding peaks. A slower lunch is one of the pleasures of exploring the Dolomites.
Enjoy an Italian aperitivo
Have a drink and a small snack in town before dinner. It is a relaxed way to finish a day in the mountains.
Try apple strudel
Sample this alpine pastry with coffee or as dessert. It reflects the blend of Italian and Central European food traditions in the region.

Getting around

Central Cortina is easy to explore on foot, especially around Corso Italia. Local buses and seasonal mountain transport connect some ski areas, nearby settlements and trail access points. However, the main mountain attractions are spread across a broad area, and not every trailhead is conveniently served by public transport.

A car is useful for independent summer exploration, particularly if you want to visit several lakes and hiking areas. In winter, resort buses can reduce the need to drive. Taxis are available but should be arranged ahead for remote locations. Mountain roads can be narrow, steep or affected by snow, and some scenic access routes have restrictions.

Good to know

  • Cortina's ski areas are not all directly connected by pistes. Check transport between sectors.
  • Summer thunderstorms can develop quickly in the Dolomites, particularly during afternoons.
  • Via ferrata routes require specialist equipment and appropriate skills, even where fixed cables are installed.
  • Popular trailheads can become crowded, so plan access and parking carefully.
  • Mountain refuges may operate seasonally and should not be assumed open without checking.
  • Italy uses euros, and tipping is generally modest rather than a fixed large percentage.

Where to stay in Cortina d'Ampezzo

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Cortina Centro

Corso Italia, the Faloria cable car, restaurants and Cortina's smartest bars sit within an easy walk of the pedestrian centre. It suits first-time visitors wanting après and convenience; winter prices are steep and central accommodation offers limited tranquillity.

Socrepes & Tofana

Beginner slopes at Socrepes and the Olympic terrain of Tofana make Cortina's western side exceptionally convenient for skiing. It suits families and mixed-ability groups; evening dining is limited and the town centre requires a bus or short taxi.

Pocol

Pocol sits above town beside gentle Tofana pistes and the Cortina Skyline connection towards Cinque Torri. It suits ski-focused families and travellers wanting mountain calm; shops and nightlife are minimal and most evenings involve travelling into Cortina.

Alverà & Cristallo

Alverà's quieter eastern slopes face the Tofane and provide convenient road access towards Rio Gere, Faloria and Cristallo. It suits couples and relaxed ski stays; nightlife and shops are sparse and lift access usually requires a bus or short drive.

Zuel

Zuel occupies a peaceful southern stretch of the Ampezzo valley with open mountain views and easy access towards Cortina's centre. It suits families, drivers and longer stays; there is little nightlife and daily skiing generally starts with a bus or car journey.

Chiave & Fiames

North of central Cortina, Chiave and Fiames offer quieter lodging, woodland scenery and strong access to Nordic skiing and outdoor trails. They suit active families and relaxed stays; alpine lift access, restaurants and après are less immediate than in the centre.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 1°C-7°C 8
Feb 2°C-6°C 8
Mar 6°C-2°C 11
Apr 9°C0°C 16
May 14°C5°C 22
Jun 19°C9°C 22
Jul 21°C11°C 22
Aug 21°C11°C 21
Sep 17°C8°C 15
Oct 12°C4°C 12
Nov 6°C-1°C 11
Dec 2°C-6°C 9

What it costs

A typical day in Cortina d'Ampezzo, per person, in pounds.

£96

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£197

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£342

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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