Italy

Milan

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Milan is Italy's centre of fashion, design and finance, and the most business-like of its big cities. It is also full of beautiful buildings, grand churches, art and good food, but it rewards you more slowly than Rome or Florence.

It is elegant and busy. Look past the grey modern surface to find courtyards, canals and quiet corners.

How many days: 2

Two days covers the cathedral, the main art and a good meal. Add a third day for a lake trip or an evening in the canal district.

Lake Como and Lake Maggiore are within an hour or two by train. They make a good escape from the city.

What to do in Milan

See the Duomo
The cathedral is one of the largest Gothic churches in Europe, covered in spires and statues. You can walk on the rooftop for a close view.
Walk through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
A glass-roofed shopping arcade beside the cathedral, one of the oldest in the world. A good place for a coffee.
See The Last Supper
Leonardo da Vinci's famous painting is on the wall of a church refectory. Tickets are limited and need to be booked well in advance on the official site.
Visit La Scala
The famous opera house has a museum open to visitors. Check the programme if you want to see a performance.
Explore the Navigli
A district of old canals lined with bars and restaurants. Popular in the evening for an aperitivo.
Visit the Brera district
A neighbourhood of cobbled streets, galleries and small cafes. The Brera art gallery has a fine collection.
Take a day trip to Lake Como
Trains reach the lake in under an hour. Ferries cross the water to villages and gardens.
Visit the Sforza Castle
A large castle with courtyards and several museums. It sits beside a large park, which makes a good place to relax.
Explore the Tortona design district
Milan's design identity is on show in this former industrial area, with showrooms, studios and galleries. It is liveliest in April during the annual design week, when hotels fill up.

What to eat and drink

Risotto alla milanese
Creamy rice flavoured with saffron. Traditionally served with slow-cooked veal shank.
Cotoletta
A breaded veal cutlet fried in butter. Similar to a schnitzel, but with local style.
Aperitivo
A tradition of early evening drinks with a spread of snacks. A good way to eat lightly and meet people.
Panettone
The sweet bread of Milan, eaten at Christmas. Bakeries sell it in the season.
Espresso at the bar
Coffee is quick and strong, and drunk standing at a bar. Sitting down costs more in many places.
Gelato
Italian ice cream is easy to find. Choose a place that makes its own.
Local cheese and cured meats
Northern Italian cheese such as gorgonzola and local salami are widely available. A good picnic lunch from a deli.

Getting around

The centre is compact. The metro is fast and covers the main sights, and trams and buses fill in the gaps.

Trains from the central station connect with the rest of Italy and Switzerland.

Cycling is popular and there are rental schemes, although traffic can be heavy.

Good to know

  • August is a quiet month, as many locals leave and some restaurants close. Check in advance.
  • Fashion weeks and major trade fairs fill hotels and push up prices. Check the dates before you book.
  • Book the Last Supper well in advance. Tickets sell out for weeks.
  • Dress codes apply in churches. Cover shoulders and knees.
  • Milan is a good base for northern Italy. Fast trains reach Turin, Venice, Florence and Switzerland, so it works as a hub as well as a destination.
  • Tap water is safe to drink and public fountains around the city give free refills.

Where to stay in Milan

6 neighbourhoods, described the way a friend would - what each is actually like, not the brochure version.

Duomo

Milan's monumental centre puts the Duomo, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and La Scala within minutes on foot. It is the simplest first-time base, but constant crowds, luxury shopping and some of the city's highest room rates are the trade-off.

Navigli

Naviglio Grande, Naviglio Pavese and the Darsena form Milan's canal-side evening district, packed with aperitivo bars and restaurants. It suits travellers prioritising nightlife and atmosphere; late noise, weekend crowds and a longer trip to northern sights are the compromise.

Porta Romana

Elegant residential streets, neighbourhood restaurants and cultural spaces surround Porta Romana, with Fondazione Prada and Rotonda della Besana nearby. It suits repeat visitors wanting everyday Milan without leaving the centre behind; headline sights require a short metro or tram ride.

Brera

Cobbled streets around Via Brera, the Pinacoteca and Orto Botanico mix galleries, polished restaurants and discreet boutiques. It is an excellent romantic or upmarket base close to the centre; beautiful surroundings come with high accommodation and dining prices.

Isola

Low-rise streets around Via Borsieri meet Bosco Verticale and the Biblioteca degli Alberi beside Porta Nuova. Independent shops, cafes and good transport make it a strong value-conscious local base; rapid gentrification means it is no longer genuinely cheap.

CityLife

Modern towers, Parco Tre Torri and the CityLife Shopping District create an unusually spacious side of Milan beside the MiCo convention centre. It suits business travellers and families wanting greenery and quiet; historic atmosphere and major old-city sights are largely absent.

When to go

Typical conditions by month - daytime high, night-time low, and rainy days.

MonthHighLowRain days
Jan 7°C-1°C 7
Feb 9°C-0°C 7
Mar 14°C3°C 8
Apr 17°C7°C 11
May 22°C12°C 12
Jun 26°C16°C 10
Jul 28°C18°C 9
Aug 28°C18°C 10
Sep 23°C14°C 10
Oct 17°C10°C 10
Nov 11°C4°C 11
Dec 7°C-0°C 8

What it costs

A typical day in Milan, per person, in pounds.

£56

Shoestring - hostels, street food, public transport.

£126

Comfortable - a decent hotel, restaurants, the odd taxi.

£148

Treating yourself - the good hotel, the good tables.

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