Rome is a city where ancient ruins, Renaissance churches and ordinary apartment blocks sit directly on top of each other. You turn a corner on the way to lunch and find a two-thousand-year-old column. It is exhausting and exhilarating in about equal measure.
The best approach is to take it in layers: see the headline sights early in the day, break for a long lunch, and use the evenings to wander. Most of the historic centre is compact enough to cover on foot.
How many days: 3 to 4
Three days gives you the Colosseum and Forum, the Vatican and the central piazzas, with a bit of time for wandering. It is a lot of walking, so build in rest.
A fourth day lets you slow down, visit a gallery or park, or take a day trip. Ostia Antica, the ancient port, and the hill towns outside the city are the easy choices.
What to do in Rome
- See the Colosseum, Forum and Palatine Hill
- These three sit next to one another and are usually covered by a combined ticket. Book ahead on the official site, go early, and bring water and a hat in summer.
- Visit the Vatican Museums and St Peter's
- Book museum tickets in advance and plan for a long visit. The Sistine Chapel is at the end of the route. Dress covers shoulders and knees for the basilica.
- Walk the central piazzas
- The Pantheon, Piazza Navona and the Trevi Fountain are within a short walk of each other. They are busiest by day, and quieter early in the morning or late in the evening.
- Cross the river to Trastevere
- A neighbourhood of narrow streets and ivy-covered buildings, good for an unhurried evening and a meal.
- Take a break in Villa Borghese
- The city's best-known park has shaded paths, a lake and a gallery. It is a good place to rest when the centre feels crowded.
- Go into a few churches
- Many of the city's churches hold major works of art and are free to enter. Cover your shoulders and knees, and be quiet during services.
What to eat and drink
- Roman pasta
- Carbonara, cacio e pepe, amatriciana and gricia are the four classics. Each uses a short list of ingredients, so quality matters more than anything else.
- Pizza al taglio
- Pizza by the slice, sold by weight in small shops. A quick, cheap lunch and a good way to try several toppings.
- Supplì
- Fried rice balls with a molten centre, eaten as a snack. A standard order at a pizzeria.
- Gelato
- Look for shops that keep gelato in covered tubs and use natural colours. Bright, piled-high displays are usually a bad sign.
- Artichokes
- Carciofi alla romana and alla giudia are seasonal specialities, usually in spring. Ask what is in season.
- Coffee at the bar
- Locals drink espresso standing at the counter, and it costs less than sitting down. Cappuccino is a morning drink.
Getting around
Rome is much more walkable than it looks, and the centre is mostly flat compared with other Italian cities. Cobbles are hard on feet, so wear sturdy shoes.
The metro has few lines and does not reach the centre well, but buses and trams cover the gaps. Check the transport operator's website for the current ticket options.
From Fiumicino airport, a direct train runs to Termini station in the centre. Ciampino is served by buses. Taxis operate from official ranks, and it helps to confirm how fares work before you travel.
Good to know
- Pickpockets work the crowded sights, the buses and the metro. Keep valuables in a front pocket or zipped bag.
- Many restaurants add a small cover charge, called 'coperto'. It is normal and shown on the menu.
- Drinking fountains around the city give safe, cold water. Bring a refillable bottle.
- Summer is very hot at midday. Plan sights for early morning and late afternoon.